Wiring A Btc-9090 Pid Controller

[AndrewQLD]

Does any one know how to wire up this PID controller. I want to use it in my HLT, I have a k type thermocouple and a 2400watt immersion heater. I am not sure where the 240volt power cord should connect or where the power out should go. And also the thermocouple. Actually after all that, I think I don't know anything :blink:

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Justin]

Now I have no real experience with these but am looking to add one in the future most likely.

A quick google revealed these specs: http://www.peaksensors.co.uk/acatalog/BTC_...Controller.html

And "BINGO" just found the manual here: http://www.brainchild.com.tw/bc/images/UM90901A.pdf

That should provide you with everything you need to know but from your pictures:

N.B. Only use this info to back up your own decisions but this is how I would wire it-I haven't read the manual.

Connect 6 and 7 to your 240V supply. I can't see an earth anywhere on the back there so perhaps there is another plug/spot on it to connect an earth.

Thermocouple to 4 and 5, noting the +/- arrangement.

For your element, without further documentation and reading I have no way of knowing the rating of the relay that operated on 8, 9 and 10 or the output type (looks like a 5A one from a quick check). So you'll need to run another relay from this one rated for your element (10amps). You'll use the NO (normally open-8 & 9) contacts so that the element is off unless it is given instruction to turn on and heat the vessel.

1 and 2 can be used to hook up and alarm function to give you a sign if something fails, you wont use this.

Thats a start.

Cheers, Justin

Edit, fixed up the manual bit

 

[Justin]

Got any more of these

Cheers, JD

 

[AndrewQLD]

Hi Justin,

You have cleared up a lot of confusion with your post, cheers. There is no where for the earth on the unit at all, and this is one of the things I was confused about, here is a drawer of a wiring diagram I found for another type of controller, do you think that joining the earth wires as in the diagram is feasable.

I can see the relay wiring is going to stuff me up I am sure. I bought this of ebay for $70.00 but they only had the one.

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Justin]

Yeah I'm not sure if other controllers have an earth on them or not, I think most do though. Best check with someone who knows but at least doing it the way you have proposed the element will have an earth, but the controller will not be earthed. Perhaps you can just attach an earth to the body of the controller (this is common place for most metal appliances) but I'm really guessing here. I think it would pay to earth the frame of your brewery too but once again ask someone that knows. I just work within what I know and with simple things, I don't try to get too creative. My cousin is a sparky so if I have doubts I usually have a chat to him, actually he's not a sparky anymore for the simple fact the job scared him to death working with dodgey wiring etc.

The relay work should be ok I think. You could just use a normal mechanical 10amp 240V relay, as long as it can handle 240V on the input side. Perhaps solid state would have been better if your controller had a solid state relay output but I think it's just a simple relay output.

Best talk to someone who knows again as I'm just guessing all this part, surely someone on here is a sparky and can help out with a wiring diagram and parts list?

Does anyone know if the controller has to have a separate power supply to what it's controlling or can they just be wired as the Johnson controls temp control Andrew linked to above off the same supply?

Good luck. Justin

 

[AndrewQLD]

Thanks for the help Justin, I will wait and see if anyone else can contribute and if not I will chase up a sparky, at least now I know how to attach the thermocouple and some of the wiring, you've been a big help.

Cheers
Andrew

 

[PhilS]

Andrew,
240V connected to terminals 6 & 7. You should have this fused with a fast blow fuse. 1 Amp should be fine.

Terminal 8 is the common & terminal 9 is to your Relay. Your pic is right with joining the active & Neutral. The Earth wires won't need to be connected to the PID and will need to be connected straight through.

As Justin has said, you will need the contacts on your PID to control a larger rated relay, as the PID appears only good for 3 Amps resistive. Your element will draw approx. 10 Amps.

Very nice looking controller btw

 

[AndrewQLD]

Thanks for the info PhilS. But i think I have a problem, I think this is not a relayed unit going by what I have said below. Can you shed any light on this???

there is a sticker on the side of this unit and it has written in the output section, relay, pulsed voltage, 4-20ma, 0-20ma and 0-10v. The 0-10v is ticked, so I assume this is a 0-10v linear unit. Any ideas what that means? And can this still be used to switch on a 2400w immersion heater??

Cheers
Andrew

 

[PhilS]

I'm only an "A" grade sparkie and haven't had much to do with PLC controls or PID's.

It may pay you to PM Kirem or Tony as they seem to have a fair bit of knowledge on the subject...see here http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...pic=6590&hl=pid

Dreamboat may have some info as well.

Hopefully, you may have a switched output, but you may have to purchase a module to do what you want. <_<

I hope your PID output is only a simple problem so you can use it asap :beer:

 

[THE DRUNK ARAB]

Andrew, we use a similar controller on a temperature controlled water recirculator in our Laser laboratory.
If you can wait a few weeks I can check the wiring to this unit when I get back to Adelaide (currently working in Cairns).

Cheers
TDA

 

[AndrewQLD]

Thanks TDA, it is just sitting here so no hurry, hope the weather is better up in Cairns than it is here in Bundaberg (rain).

Cheers
Andrew

 

[THE DRUNK ARAB]

No worries Andrew.

Weather is gorgeous as are the tourists

C&B
TDA

 

[dreamboat]

My suspicion is that the 0-10V output will be difficult to use, unless you put another device in-line to convert that to a switched output. For basic control of your heating element, I would RTFM and see what you can get the alarm output to do for you.... it may be a bit of a pita to set up (probably have to go way into the menu structure to set the alarm value) but you should be able to run a relay from the alarm output to do the job.


Good luck - you just may need it.... but when you get these things at the right price, you don't mind spending the time to get them working.



dreamboat

 

[AndrewQLD]

Hi Dreamboat, never thought of the alarm side, that output is a relay rated 2A/240volt resistive, I will give it a go and see, obviously I will have to add a bigger relay for the heater.
You don't happen to have a spare one of those controllers from your bulk buy do you? I should have just stuck with the original plan and got that one.

Thanks for the thoughts

Andrew

 

[dreamboat]

Andrew - I can get more of the same Dixell controllers, as many as I want, for $90 each which is still not a bad buy. However, if I were you, I would try to make the one that you already have work first. Even if you don't end up using it on your element, it can alway be put to good use down the track for a fermenting fridge or similar, where you have no real need to change the setpoint value often.


dreamboat

 

[AndrewQLD]

I will give it a go Dreamboat and let you know.

Cheers
Andrew