Which element for me

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Dazzbrew

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Hey guys after being inspired by QLDkev's 1V project i am planning one of my own, the major differences with what i have planned is that i will be sticking with my gas burner & adjustable high pressure reg combo for the boil as i really like the control i have with it and that i will also be sticking with my grain bag for the time being.
I have sorted out most of the items i need but need to decide which element to use, i have read posts from people worried about scorching the wort with too much power/heat density, i'm not sure if that's a real concern or not but may be best to ere on the cautious side just in case. I'm sold on the idea of a plug and play element and have narrowed it down to the following choices;

this 2400W one from craftbrewer
https://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=4616

this one from 1380W one from Ibrew
http://www.ibrew.com.au/products/heating-element-900w

Or my LHBS has some Eccencia copper ones ranging from 1250W, 1500W & 2000W.

Keeping in mind that i will only be asking the element to heat the strike water (35-50 ltrs), maintain the mash temp (will be re circ'ing) & heat to mash out temp, after that will be handled by my gas burner. Which one will have the most balls without `scorching the wort'?

Dazz
 
I guess im on my own with this one.
 
Not so much on your own. I subscribed to the thread as I am looking into electric options and interested on what this thread may bring. That doesn't help you too much though.
 
I'd go the craft brewer one personally, only because of the extra wattage.
 
I have the 2400W one in my kettle (along with a keg king bar element), and haven't noticed any scorching of the wort with it.

Cheers,
RB
 
You would be hard pressed to scorch wort with either. How big is your setup? as I would recommend go as big as you can get.
 
Ill be doing full volume BIAB using a 50ltr keggle in which I sometimes brew enough to fill 2x 15ltr cubes which means its pretty full at mash time. Thanks.
 
Using a higher wattage element will still trip your breaker if you only have a 10A circuit. If you are in that situation though (as I am) i would still recommend getting a larger element and then using an SSR-V (or SSV-R depending on nomenclature) in conjunction with a non-contact ammeter to regulate the wattage.

Theoretically that should yield an even lower watt density unit.
 
MitchD said:
I have the 5500w element in my setup of the same size but i am all electric.

If 10a is all you have and you are worried about scorching this element and a suitably sized aluminium box from jaycar will be the safest.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Camco-Ultra-Low-Watt-Density-heating-element-1500w-5500w-You-choose-wattage-/191521200502?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2c978d9976
Same element same price but realistic postage

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I already have one of these and just ordered 2 more.

Now this is very much do as I say not as I do. I run this on a 10amp circuit. Don't run this on a 10amp circuit. You will burn your house down.

The only advise you should listen to is a licensed electrician.

Electricity will indiscriminately kill fools like us.
 
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Thanks guys, im pretty keen to keep this simple though, drill a hole, do up a nut, plug in a cable (i already have an iec cable to use) and off I go.
Maybe this is not as simple as I first thought but surely I dont need heaps of power just for the mash, after all the grainfather just uses a 500W for that.
 
Holy shit some people need to read the full post and have a good look at the eBay link.

I wasn't looking at postage, just the first example that popped up and if you use the drop down box they have a few wattages to select from as low as 1500w.

I step mash biab with no false bottom and a 5500w with NO scorching but as always get an adult to check
 
I have the craftbrewer one dazz, test run got me to 95 and was rising sloooowww at that stage with about 20l. Need insulation but it should suffice.
 
MitchD said:
Holy shit some people need to read the full post and have a good look at the eBay link.
I wasn't looking at postage, just the first example that popped up and if you use the drop down box they have a few wattages to select from as low as 1500w.
I step mash biab with no false bottom and a 5500w with NO scorching but as always get an adult to check
Yeah I did

Sorry. Just thought I would share where I got mine. Wasn't having a go
 
No worries, it was mostly directed at the alarmist above you.
 
Don't want to ruffle feathers, however the camco 5500 have a plated base and will eventually rust, this has come up on US sites over numerous threads and with one member here. These wavy type 5500w elements are available from Brewhardware.com with SS base though a little higher in cost, but specifically made for brewing. They also make a guard for the wiring.

In most situations 2400w will do single batches, for quicker ramp use a second over the side element 2400w (on a second circuit). Both together will boil a tripple batch.
The OTS is a great bit of kit to have around the brewery I used to have an esky mash tun and I would step with the OTS moving the element up and down while stepping.

My pick for inbuilt would be the 5 star elements and they come with a guard for your wiring.

Note both the above fitted elements use a similar cut out hole size but have different threads.

MB
 
MitchD said:
No worries, it was mostly directed at the alarmist above you.
MitchD said:
Alarmist?
In your post you are recommending a 5500w element on a 10A circuit. The calculations are pretty simple and whichever way you pull the trigger you get well over 10A.
If you were recommending using a lower wattage element from the ebay store, then specifying 5500w and 'this element' in your post is not the way to go.
 
Refer to post #12 (my post)

Click the ebay link and select the 2500/240v option. Pretty simple.

I have the 5500w on a 25a circuit and am very happy with the way it doesn't scorch the wort that was all. It is inspired by the electric brewery, but as the electrical connection box used by them in Canada are not readily available in Australia i used an alloy box from jaycar for simplicity.

I was trying to help the op with alternative options, you have been nothing but a troll, please explain how your setup is designed?
 
Seriously, trolling? Is that what you are resorting to.

Now how about you go back and read both your post and my post before you start throwing around accusations of not being able to read properly and trolling.

Your post talks about 5500w elements on 10a circuits. Blatantly dangerous no matter the options on the eBay listing, and novices would take your post as a demonstration that the 5500w element on that eBay link would be fine to use with their 10a household circuit.


Furthermore, my post gives details on exactly what i use, as in the quote below.

takai said:
If you are in that situation though (as I am) i would still recommend getting a larger element and then using an SSR-V (or SSV-R depending on nomenclature) in conjunction with a non-contact ammeter to regulate the wattage.
 
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