What do you use to increase temps of your FV safely? heat belt? light?

[talco92]

I use a heat belt, controlled by an STC1000, with the probe in the fermenter to get as accurate a reading as possible.
My only worry is that the belt produces a lot of heat over a very small band of the fermenter's surface. Not sure if its big enough to create upwelling/circulation within the beer, and as a result it is probably on for a long time before the probe senses that the beer is at the target temp.

Has anyone thought about this?
What could/do you do to get around this?
Are there any noticeable effects of overheating certain parts of the wort?

One partial solution I can think of is to move the belt to the bottom 1/3 or so of the fermenter so that beer that is heated can flow upwards and be replaced by cooler beer (upwelling), but like I said before small quantities of beer might be reaching 30-40 C before circulation occurs, which may affect the overall quality of beer.

 

[MichaelM]

I use a fermentation chamber and raise the ambient temperature gradually on my STC. My feeling is that the heat belt would cause some harm to the yeast and other components in the beer/wort. The heat would cause a convection current and allow more beer/work to come into contact with the "hot" surface.

 

[Tropico]

I am convinced that keeping all of the wort at a constant temperature improves the fermentation. Even small fluctuations in temperature with warming/cooling fall into the "other than ideal" conditions for yeast. The larger the fluctuations the less ideal things become.

You might be able to pick up a REX-C100 PID controller reasonably cheap. Once it is tuned, it will work very well, and the auto-tune function is very good. This would solve the problem if you stick with the heat belt.

 

[AJS2154]

I use an old fridge as a fermentation vessel. I have my 2 fermenters sitting on a strong wire shelf, say about 150mm above the bottom of the fridge. On the bottom of the fridge, but on top of a piece of marine ply, I have a heat mat which is controlled by my STC1000....the probe being attached to the outside of one of the FVs. I want the area around the FVs to be warm, but no direct heat applied to the FVs. That avoids hot spots. Works for me.

Anthony

 

[mattjm]

I use a brewpi for my stainless conical in a fridge. Brewpi has 3 options beer constant, fridge constant and temp profile. I mostly use cooling to maintain the temps Im after but have set it up to heat using the 120w defrost heater and have the fan in the fridge running constantly to circulate the air and increase the heating/cooling efficency. Had a few issues to start with now Im really happy and can consistently maintain temps between .1 to .5c of my target and automate diacetyl rest and cold crashing. I would sugest the next best thing would be an stc 1000 controlling a similarly set-up ferm chamber.

 

[indica86]

Only once have I needed to add any heat and that was a PET bottle full of warm water.

 

[talco92]

Thanks for the replies so far.

You might be able to pick up a REX-C100 PID controller reasonably cheap. Once it is tuned, it will work very well, and the auto-tune function is very good. This would solve the problem if you stick with the heat belt.

So the thermocouple I'm looking at has a threaded sensor, what would you use this for? Screwing into a thermowell?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400-Digital-REX-C100-PID-Temperature-Controller-40A-SSR-K-Thermocouple-Probe-/121839867085?hash=item1c5e38d4cd:g:QuYAAOSwwE5Wbhq9

And how do they go with immersion? Doesn't say anywhere that its waterproof, but the 0-400 deg C range is promising!

I use a brewpi for my stainless conical in a fridge. Brewpi has 3 options beer constant, fridge constant and temp profile. I mostly use cooling to maintain the temps Im after but have set it up to heat using the 120w defrost heater and have the fan in the fridge running constantly to circulate the air and increase the heating/cooling efficency. Had a few issues to start with now Im really happy and can consistently maintain temps between .1 to .5c of my target and automate diacetyl rest and cold crashing. I would sugest the next best thing would be an stc 1000 controlling a similarly set-up ferm chamber.

I don't know anything about BrewPi but the first thing I saw when I googled it was that it data logs, which is a great analysis tool for me considering I sometimes sit and stare at my fermenting beer for lack of other things to do to it.
I see that they sell Brewpi, but its also opensource. Did you build your own or buy it?

 

[talco92]

Only once have I needed to add any heat and that was a PET bottle full of warm water.

Into the FV? Or next to it, like the opposite of a swamp cooler? hah

EDIT: spelling

 

[indica86]

I knew I should have typed more. :chug:


In my fermeezer.

 

[gunn]

I use one of these inside the fridge.

 

[Tropico]

So the thermocouple I'm looking at has a threaded sensor, what would you use this for? Screwing into a thermowell?

And how do they go with immersion? Doesn't say anywhere that its waterproof, but the 0-400 deg C range is promising!

You're right. The K type thermocouple that comes with the PID are not so flash and only work at +/-1.0C.

I picked some up PT100 (3 wire) thermocouples that allow you to run at +/-0.1C resolution with the REX-C100.

I use either an old Kelvinator refrigerator or a dedicated fermenting cupboard as well (depending on the season).

You could probably set-up something to immerse them, but I just tape them to the side of the fermenter with some insulation over it.

 

[Rocker1986]

Depends on the time of year for me. I don't use any actual heating inside my fermenting fridge, although I did use an Erlenmeyer flask of boiling water in there once when I had some bottles carbonating in the middle of winter.

In the warmer months I just raise the temp on the STC and let it come up on its own. In the cooler months I do the same but I open the fridge door during the warmest part of the day and then close it afterwards to keep the heat in. Works well enough for me but I do live in a climate that allows it.

 

[talco92]

You're right. The K type thermocouple that comes with the PID are not so flash and only work at +/-1.0C.

I picked some up PT100 (3 wire) thermocouples that allow you to run at +/-0.1C resolution with the REX-C100.

How does your unit go overall with temp calibration? I've heard a lot of people complaining that their STC needs to be calibrated for each temp range (mash, ferm, rests etc.) they want to use it in. And is it worth getting a few PT100s in case they break, or are they sturdy? I've had my STC for 2 years now and never replaced the NTC sensor or compared it with a new one, so not sure what sort of upkeep these things actually require!

 

[talco92]

I use one of these inside the fridge.
<image>

Gunn are you not worried about the elements overheating if its recirculating hot air?
I'd only feel comfortable using that if it was controlled by a PID within a really small temp range to minimise the time it's on.

 

[Tropico]

How does your unit go overall with temp calibration? I've heard a lot of people complaining that their STC needs to be calibrated for each temp range (mash, ferm, rests etc.) they want to use it in. And is it worth getting a few PT100s in case they break, or are they sturdy? I've had my STC for 2 years now and never replaced the NTC sensor or compared it with a new one, so not sure what sort of upkeep these things actually require!

Calibration seems very good between 10 and 80C, but it is very easy to change if you need to.

The only problem I have had has been with the thermocouple wires coming out of the terminals, but that was easily fixed. Otherwise they just keep going.

My REX-C100 has relay output rated at 3amp rather than drive an SSR, much more economical and I couldn't see the need to use more than 700watts for ferment temp control.

 

[mattjm]

talco: I actually built one to start with and have just updated to the spark/photon core, half the reason I updated was due to some reliability issues I was having however I have now realised this was purely due to a poor quality usb lead that I was using to power it.
I would probably advise going with the spark core ready to go though as the newer firmware has outgrown the arduino and I was really impressed wit the service shipped to aus in a matter of days and not alot more than parts to build your own
.

 

[mattjm]

I struggle to understand why so many people in aus are trying to heat their fermentation vessel whilst I,m constantly having to cool mine, even with ales to maintain 18-20c and even more so for lagering and cold crashing.

 

[talco92]

My REX-C100 has relay output rated at 3amp rather than drive an SSR, much more economical and I couldn't see the need to use more than 700watts for ferment temp control.

My electrical knowledge isn't up to scratch so you might need to elaborate. The STC1000 says that it has a relay contact capacity rated to 10A, and I was always under the assumption that I may be pushing it re: its capabilities.

The REX c100 I'm looking at on ebay comes with a 40A SSR, you're saying this is overkill? what do you use instead?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400-Digital-REX-C100-Temperature-Controller-PID-40A-SSR-K-Thermocouple-Probe-/291669344010?hash=item43e8d8ff0a:g:sHcAAOSwUdlWch09

EDIT: linky

 

[talco92]

I struggle to understand why so many people in aus are trying to heat their fermentation vessel whilst I,m constantly having to cool mine, even with ales to maintain 18-20c and even more so for lagering and cold crashing.

Where you located? Could be that its just too damn hot!

I use a starter, which kicks off a crazy fermentation and uncontrolled will hit 24C easy (+4C out of ideal range for most yeasties)
Its only a few days later, when the action dies down, that I want to heat and keep it active to get high attenuation

 

[TwoCrows]

I struggle to understand why so many people in aus are trying to heat their fermentation vessel whilst I,m constantly having to cool mine, even with ales to maintain 18-20c and even more so for lagering and cold crashing.

+1 as to mattjm has stated.
I am in Vic and have been fermenting in a fridge using the STC1000. Temp is steady within 0.5 degrees at 19.0 degrees, just don't put the thermostat on to cold and it doesn't require heating. The fridge is in a room around 15 -20 degrees.