What improvements to your process are you planning in order to brew be

[Coodgee]

Hi guys, after coming back from a month's holiday overseas I fee like I am ready to make a step-change in my beer quality by targeting a couple of process improvements. I have identified two areas for improvement:

1. Better measurement and control of mash ph.
2. Tighter temperature control during fermentation.

Luckily both points require the acquisition of new toys

I was previously using a fairly cheap pH meter, and I didn't take any care of the electrode - never cleaned it, didn't store it in storage solution, took readings in hot wort etc. The last brew I did I got a reading of ph 5.0 so I added some baking soda to get it up to pH 5.4. Unfortunately I think the reading was totally inaccurate because I ended up with astringency in the finished beer. So I am expecting a hanna pH meter to arrive today, complete with callibration, storoage and cleaning solutions. I plan to do a bit of experimentation to try the same recipe but with mash pH of 5.2,5.4,5.6 etc and comparing the results. I'm hoping to get a more refreshing, brighter beer for my pale ales and lagers with this process. I intend to alter the pH with gypsum and lactic acid as required, and also using different mixtures of RO and tap water.

I am also using quite an old fridgemate temp controller. I have a stainless probe that sits directly in the wort. If I set the fridgemate to 17 degrees it will chill down to 16 before switching off and then not switch back on until it hits 19 degrees. I think this 3 degree swing is not ideal. I want to invest in an stc1000 so that I can keep the swing to +- 0.5 degrees or so. The STC1000 should be able to do this right?

So what plans do you have to improve your beer? Are you always trying to improve things or are you happy with your beer and like to keep your process the same?

 

[fishingbrad]

Improvements; I just picked up a couple more cornies so I can lager longer. Other than that I'm pretty happy where my beers are at.

 

[Mardoo]

Based on my experience with the two I much prefer the Auberins plug n play fermentation controller. It has adjustable hysteresis for both heating and cooling separately. After a bit of practice I could keep ferm temps within a range of +\- 0.2C. I use STC's now and they work just fine. If you want tighter control though, I myself would go the Auberins. I miss mine!

 

[Rocker1986]

I'm happy with my current processes so not likely to change anything there. My beers are turning out well.

Re the STC, yes this is what I use for fermentation temp control. I tape the probe to the side of the FV about halfway up underneath a thick layer of packing foam. The difference is set to 0.3C, and the temp always stays between the set temp and 0.3C higher. It's probably not as accurate as having a probe directly in the wort, but from measuring samples taken for SG readings, it's pretty close, usually within half a degree (this difference could also be caused by the temp of the sample jar too). Certainly not enough difference to have any effect on the taste of the beer in any case.

 

[Coodgee]

Based on my experience with the two I much prefer the Auberins plug n play fermentation controller. It has adjustable hysteresis for both heating and cooling separately. After a bit of practice I could keep ferm temps within a range of +\- 0.2C. I use STC's now and they work just fine. If you want tighter control though, I myself would go the Auberins. I miss mine!

thanks for the tip, where did you get your Auberins from?

 

[Mardoo]

Auberins Their website.

 

[Droopy Brew]

My next step is pure O2 for oxygenating Wort. Reckon I will get better attenuation and cleaner ferment. Filtered water is also on the to do list but honestly I nor anyone else has picked chloramines in any of my beers to date.

I have simplified my wort making process somewhat by taking less measurements. I dont worry about pH anymore as all my beers seem to sit in a good range. I also dont bother taking gravity measurements of runnings (I batch sparge) nor even in the kettle. Again my process sits in a pretty consistant range and at the end of the day Im hitting target OG which is the number that matters.

Im not advocating that these measurements aren't important but once you get your system humming and consistent I reckon they can be dropped from your process.

 

[Yob]

a second mash tun for Re-Iterated mashing
larger manifold for greater flow
re welding my kettle stand to be safer
re locating entire brew system to new (final) location
install plumbing for said new location
Swap Barbs over to cam locks

thats just off the top of the head..

there is more..

 

[technobabble66]

As per Droopy Brew, O2 is likely to be the next step - i need to ensure full attenuation and no sleepy yeast.

Similarly, i found after measuring pH in a few batches, Bru'n Water seemed to accurately predict the mash Ph, so i don't bother measuring any more. Probably should try to measure once every 6 months or so (namely for Summer Winter variations in the water supply).
I'd point out though that the water supply for most of Melbourne is so soft that the variations would/should be minor so i can (hopefully) get away with my laziness - so YMMV.

And a 2nd fridge for CC-ing/lagering would be great, but i'm not sure i have any space for it

 

[Brownsworthy]

Water chemistry and I now need a new frige as both have shat themselves.

 

[pcqypcqy]

I've just been doing simple stuff lately:

I went to a new 3v system with 2 pumps and a blichmann sparge arm so I can recirc and sparge much longer with better control.

I put sight glasses and temperature dials on all 3 pots, cheapies for the HLT and Kettle, and a good fermentap dial from g&g with 6 inch probe for the MLT. The idea being to get better readings of where my volumes and temps are at and can adjust accordingly (usually on the next brew though, not on the fly).

Maybe another freezer with STC so I can ferment 2 at a time, or some combination of lagering/fermenting.

 

[Matplat]

I think I still need to dial in my mill, since I have started crushing my own grain, I get way more dough balls and can't recirculate anywhere near as fast. I feel like this may mean I may have a temperature gradient in my grain bed.

The flip side to this is the sparge is much slower when I lift the malt pipe, which seems like a good thing, but efficiency still isn't stellar.

And a focus on yeast health.....

 

[Rocker1986]

I should have added that another fridge for storing full kegs in until they're ready to be tapped is on the wishlist but I won't be able to do that here because there is no space for one.

Also buying a new grain bag since my current one has a small hole in the bottom of it. It won't be thrown out though, I'll use it for hop boils when I use my home grown flowers.

 

[Coldspace]

I've just been using the keg king brand controller. Accurate to .1 degree, I've usually set a diff of .2 and maintain a constant temp plus or minus .3. Good enough for me, I've had 4 on my 4 Chesties for past 3 years with no issues.

Next step was 02, I've done an Irish red and couple of pales, all seem cleaner and flavours deff are more precise. I've noticed a lot more slurry in bottom after ferments so assume the O2 has built a lot bigger culture . I've always over pitched starters anyway and never had an issue.

Next was another chesty plus like fishing brad said more cornies, I go from ferment/cc fridge, into cornies and lager them for 1 month before moving them into my depensing keezer. No matter how well you prep and ferment, a month or older keg is always far better.
Grain to brain in 10 to 14 days if you are a desperate alco. I like plan my beers 6 to 8 weeks out . At a pinch I'll filter if I have to get it out earlier.

Oh and going from an esky to grain father was my best investment. Then mini kegs, refracs, stir plates, mill, bulk buys, yeast forge........ Love these toys . It never ends lol

 

[JDW81]

No improvements planned for me, just focussing on the basics. Sanitation, good recipe design, oxygenation, healthy yeast and healthy fermentation.

My beer hasn't improved since I upgraded to a 3v RIMs or moved to kegs, it has just given me more flexibility.

JD

 

[droid]

I think it's a great question, Coodgee - many changes have been made in my brewery over time through listening, reading and watching most steps forward with some back!

Right now I'm concentrating on better transfer of finished beer, based on beer judges notes about oxidation and in one case contamination.

 

[Beamer]

Im going to try and brew more to style guidelines, and learn to age beers a little longer, they always taste better at the bottom of the keg. So this will mean less consumption. You think the novelty of a kegerator would wear off after a year, but no I had to put a third tap on didnt I!

 

[pcqypcqy]

I think it's a great question, Coodgee - many changes have been made in my brewery over time through listening, reading and watching most steps forward with some back!

Right now I'm concentrating on better transfer of finished beer, based on beer judges notes about oxidation and in one case contamination.

I forgot to add this to my list, I'm also thinking about beer transfers using CO2 based on comments from a pro brewer. Usually not an issue for the timescale I normally drink my beers, but I've got more kegs and bottles now and the ability to do double brew days, so I plan to build up a stock of beers to age a bit before I drink them, so wouldn't want that effort to go to waste.

What are you considering? I was thinking of maybe going a kegmenter, then pushing the beer out of that.

 

[droid]

I forgot to add this to my list, I'm also thinking about beer transfers using CO2 based on comments from a pro brewer. Usually not an issue for the timescale I normally drink my beers, but I've got more kegs and bottles now and the ability to do double brew days, so I plan to build up a stock of beers to age a bit before I drink them, so wouldn't want that effort to go to waste.

What are you considering? I was thinking of maybe going a kegmenter, then pushing the beer out of that.

Yep you got it in one! Kegmenters.(2 here but 1 or 2 more to come) Temperature controlled ferment in fridge and crash, leaving two choices:

1. Use a second one as a bright tank, so transferring to 2nd kegmenter, carbing up then c02 transferring to bottles or kegs whenever - just like many breweries
2. transferring straight from crashed kegmenter into bottle or kegs and carbing up as normal

Option 1 sounds like the go, one kegmenter set-up as a bright tank. But sometimes option 2 will do the trick.
All transferred cold and by c02 from now on. As a note the brewery I help out at have 5FV's and one Bright tank, so one bright tank to 2 or three FV's is no problemo!

 

[Garfield]

My grey areas are:

1. Water chemistry
2. Growing hops flowers
3. easy cleaning process (maybe I'm dreaming)
4. lagering

So those are my focus for 2017

Garf