What are you Brewing 2016?

[Coodgee]

I'm thinking it might be a bit of diacetyl perhaps. I have a full keg of this stuff so my plan is to leave it for a month and see if the unpleasant flavours subside, at which point it would just be a fairly flavourless quaffer. If it doesn't improve after a month, I will add a yeast starter and see if I can clean up the diacetyl (if that's what it is?). or I might just add 100grams of citra and dry hop the bejeebers out of it.

 

[Dan Pratt]

Diacetyl from what I know is formed when yeast is stressed during initial growth and then fermentation. Usually more common in lagers due to the lower temps requiring much larger viable yeast.

So make sure you clean that up use a temp rise ferment schedule. Start at 18c for 3days after krausen starts to form, then add 1 degree every 24hrs till you reach 22c. Leave at that temp for a few days. Cold crash to 17c to drop out yeast, add dry hops and leave for 3-4days before cold crashing to 4c and package.

Giving it 100g of Citra will turn it to juice, add half that and see after 1 week how its going. Even remove the keg and let it get to room temp, add 50g and leave for 3-4days then cold crash for serving.

 

[Coodgee]

yeah I know the theory - but I've never had the actual flavour confirmed by anyone so I can only guess it's diacetyl. I usually set at 18 degrees for the duration of the ferment and leave it for a week at 20 degrees once fermentation is complete. As I understand this should be long enough to clean up diacetyl. my old school fridgemate temp controller doesn't have the capacity to keep the wort at an exact temp. If I set it at 18 it will chill until it reads 17 and then not kick in the fridge again until it reaches 18+2 = 20 degrees. Since I have the tip of the probe submerged in the beer then I imagine the surface of the wort is going through a temp swing of ~17.5 to ~19.5 with the main body of wort being subject to some less extreme swing. been thinking about getting a better temp controller - does the stc1000 allow the brewer to keep temps at +- 0.5 degrees - so if I set it to 18 it keeps it there?

 

[Danscraftbeer]

my old school fridgemate temp controller doesn't have the capacity to keep the wort at an exact temp. If I set it at 18 it will chill until it reads 17 and then not kick in the fridge again until it reaches 18+2 = 20 degrees. Since I have the tip of the probe submerged in the beer then I imagine the surface of the wort is going through a temp swing of ~17.5 to ~19.5 with the main body of wort being subject to some less extreme swing. been thinking about getting a better temp controller - does the stc1000 allow the brewer to keep temps at +- 0.5 degrees - so if I set it to 18 it keeps it there?

Edit: scratch that comment. mine isn't an stc1000 either. Oops.

I'd rather a smaller variable too.
I find myself tripping the temp manually by adjusting the setting up or down to kick in the heat or chill, then set back to 18c etc.

 

[Tahoose]

Yes the stc-1000 generally has a variable of plus or minus .5c however one of mine is a .3c differential.

 

[Yob]

Yes the stc-1000 generally has a variable of plus or minus .5c however one of mine is a .3c differential.

All mine are 0.3 as well..

 

[Dan Pratt]

Stc are controlled to +/- 0.1 degree. Like others I set mine to 0.3 and that gets a 0.5 swing.

 

[Blind Dog]

Pratty1: Must admit I'm concerned with what they've put in your pain med post op, cos I think there's some thing wrong somewhere as your recipe is only 20 ish IBU.

Good luck with the recovery.

 

[Dan Pratt]

Pratty1: Must admit I'm concerned with what they've put in your pain med post op, cos I think there's some thing wrong somewhere as your recipe is only 20 ish IBU.

Good luck with the recovery.

Haha, Thanks BD. It's one of the few beers I make that is low ibu, usually cranked up which the next one planned is.

The meds were pretty fkd up though, forte and oxy cotins, so doped out so I stopped taking them.

 

[Danwood]

The temp. swing mentioned above can be called 'hysteresis'.... just in case that fills in any gaps with people wondering about settings

 

[nosco]

Now mine are set to .3. Had em set to .5

 

[droid]

HLT is on as we speak...er...type

The Dark Ram "Die dunklen ram"... a Dunkles Bock

OG 1.070 - 1.075 depending on efficiency
7.11% - 7.62%
24 - 27ibu tho leaning towards higher end because of impending decoctions coupled with the malt bill

61.5% munich
38.5% vienna

90 minute mash 55deg/10 no decoction, 64 for 90 3 decoctions every 30minutes , 72/20 (possibly decoction if mash paddle isn't too bent from the stirring) 78 mash out

magnum @ 60 for 22 ibu
mt hood @ 20 for 5 ibu

fermented with marzen slurry 2206 8degC until close to FG then D-rest at 16 for a few days then down to fridge temp 1-2degC until "Ich kann nicht länger warten"

bit worried about it being too sweet but gotta try and take it from there

 

[technobabble66]

How dark is you're ram going to be with just Munich & Vienna?
A little whisker of carafa or Choc, maybe? If you want it dark, that is.

64 for 90 shouldn't turn out too sweet, I wouldn't've thought. IBUs are lowish for a high grav beer but given it'll finish quite low it should be fine, I'd guess.
Looking forward to sampling it in July!!

Mmmmm, Munich [emoji6]

 

[droid]

cheers techno - i'm not sure about the munich as it is gladfield, so is it light or dark? and i remember it pulling the colour down when i used it fairly sparingly in another brew so, yeah - maybe it'll be:

"The Tanned Ram" hehe - actually my marzen is darkish so it'll have to be darker than that

ive decocted a good amount of vienna early, then did a decoction with munich then put it al together at 64 and am thinking o leaving it alone till time to bump up to 72 - i really need to post up about what's brewing when it's done instead of before...

 

[droid]

got a BG of 1.056 and i remember someone asking why anyone needs a BG, maybe I didn't explain it too well at the time but here's why:

the BG tells me what efficiency I achieved which (remarkably) was 77%. Because of that, the beer will be somewhere up around 7.8%...in this case I don't want 7.8%, i'd like lower 7's
So then, knowing the BG allows for altering the final volume, for me 44ltrs instead of 40 which will be around 7.1%
Because it's 4 ltrs more I need to up the bittering hops to keep it up at 27-28ibu
The only unknown left is the exact boil off rate but yeah - that's why it's good to know the BG

that prolly didn't make sense either

 

[Chridech]

^ when getting a FWH bitterness of around 1/3 or 1/4 the total ibu and the rest from the whirlpool the flavour was solid, almost at the resinous level I'm chasing. Move the 5min to whirlpool and double the amount of hops, even triple it. Almost forget what the software calcs for ibu because its all preceptive at that time, unlike early addition bitterness. Well worth experimenting with it.
My next hoppy beer is a 6% American wheat 60% pils and 40% wheat at 64c. Columbus to 15ibu and 100g of Simcoe and 100g of Citra in the whirlpool for 20mins. The the same amount for dry hop = 10g/L

^ when getting a FWH bitterness of around 1/3 or 1/4 the total ibu and the rest from the whirlpool the flavour was solid, almost at the resinous level I'm chasing. Move the 5min to whirlpool and double the amount of hops, even triple it. Almost forget what the software calcs for ibu because its all preceptive at that time, unlike early addition bitterness. Well worth experimenting with it.
My next hoppy beer is a 6% American wheat 60% pils and 40% wheat at 64c. Columbus to 15ibu and 100g of Simcoe and 100g of Citra in the whirlpool for 20mins. The the same amount for dry hop = 10g/L

Jaysus! No wonder the hopocalypse is a comin'. Brewing an APA this weekend with FWH to 15 IBU. After reading this may significantly increase the amount of Citra and Galaxy added to the hop stand. Citra only for dry hop to avoid Galaxy's grassy flavours.

 

[Dan Pratt]

Jaysus! No wonder the hopocalypse is a comin'. Brewing an APA this weekend with FWH to 15 IBU. After reading this may significantly increase the amount of Citra and Galaxy added to the hop stand. Citra only for dry hop to avoid Galaxy's grassy flavours.

Sounds good, 15ibu from bittering is my target for an apa. Don't be scared of galaxy in the dry hop just be aware that 3days is about the limit. Understand one thing, after 48hrs, close to 100% of available hop oils have been extracted so the old 7day dry hop is a thing of the past. If you want facts, google Oregon University hop study and read the 75+ page study. (its actually 6hrs when recirculated) so 48hrs is being generous.

 

[Dan Pratt]

Took the liberty!

http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf

 

[btrots87]

Brewing my first All Grain IPA in my grainfather on Monday, this is what I'm thinking:

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: American IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 22 liters (ending kettle volume)
Boil Size: 26.5 liters
Boil Gravity: 1.057
Efficiency: 70% (ending kettle)

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.069
Final Gravity: 1.014
ABV (standard): 7.13%
IBU (tinseth): 62.83
SRM (morey): 10.06

FERMENTABLES:
1.5 kg - German - Munich Light (21.4%)
0.3 kg - American - Caramel / Crystal 60L (4.3%)
5.2 kg - Gladfield Ale (74.3%)

HOPS:
20 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.2, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 17.78
20 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Boil for 20 min, IBU: 15.1
20 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.2, Use: Boil for 20 min, IBU: 10.77
20 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Aroma for 10 min, IBU: 9.04
20 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.9, Use: Aroma for 10 min, IBU: 10.14
30 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Whirlpool for 10 min at 80 °C
30 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.9, Use: Whirlpool for 10 min at 80 °C
30 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.2, Use: Whirlpool for 10 min at 80 °C
30 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days
30 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.2, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days
30 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.9, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Temp: 55 C, Time: 5 min, Amount: 22.5 L
2) Temp: 63 C, Time: 45 min
3) Temp: 70 C, Time: 30 min
4) Temp: 75 C, Time: 10 min
5) Sparge, Temp: 78 C, Amount: 10 L
Starting Mash Thickness: 3.2 L/kg

OTHER INGREDIENTS:
0.5 each - Whirlfloc tablet, Time: 10 min, Type: Fining, Use: Boil
0.5 tsp - Gelatine, Type: Fining, Use: Primary
6 g - CaSO4, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
1.5 g - CaCl2, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05 (2 packs)
Fermentation Temp: 18 C

PRIMING:
Method: Bulk Prime - dextrose
Amount: 130g
CO2 Level: 2.5 Volumes

TARGET WATER PROFILE:
Profile Name: Hoppy Pale Ale/IPA
Ca2: 75
Mg2: 5
Na: 14
Cl: 60
SO4: 125
HCO3: 44

 

[Dan Pratt]

Brewing my first All Grain IPA in my grainfather on Monday, this is what I'm thinking:

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: American IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 22 liters (ending kettle volume)
Boil Size: 26.5 liters
Boil Gravity: 1.057
Efficiency: 70% (ending kettle)

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.069
Final Gravity: 1.014
ABV (standard): 7.13%
IBU (tinseth): 62.83
SRM (morey): 10.06

FERMENTABLES:
1.5 kg - German - Munich Light (21.4%)
0.3 kg - American - Caramel / Crystal 60L (4.3%)
5.2 kg - Gladfield Ale (74.3%)

HOPS:
20 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.2, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 17.78
20 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Boil for 20 min, IBU: 15.1
20 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.2, Use: Boil for 20 min, IBU: 10.77
20 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Aroma for 10 min, IBU: 9.04
20 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.9, Use: Aroma for 10 min, IBU: 10.14
30 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Whirlpool for 10 min at 80 °C
30 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.9, Use: Whirlpool for 10 min at 80 °C
30 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.2, Use: Whirlpool for 10 min at 80 °C
30 g - Mosaic, Type: Pellet, AA: 11.5, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days
30 g - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 8.2, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days
30 g - Simcoe, Type: Pellet, AA: 12.9, Use: Dry Hop for 5 days

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Temp: 55 C, Time: 5 min, Amount: 22.5 L
2) Temp: 63 C, Time: 45 min
3) Temp: 70 C, Time: 30 min
4) Temp: 75 C, Time: 10 min
5) Sparge, Temp: 78 C, Amount: 10 L
Starting Mash Thickness: 3.2 L/kg

OTHER INGREDIENTS:
0.5 each - Whirlfloc tablet, Time: 10 min, Type: Fining, Use: Boil
0.5 tsp - Gelatine, Type: Fining, Use: Primary
6 g - CaSO4, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash
1.5 g - CaCl2, Type: Water Agt, Use: Mash

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - American Ale Yeast US-05 (2 packs)
Fermentation Temp: 18 C

PRIMING:
Method: Bulk Prime - dextrose
Amount: 130g
CO2 Level: 2.5 Volumes

TARGET WATER PROFILE:
Profile Name: Hoppy Pale Ale/IPA
Ca2: 75
Mg2: 5
Na: 14
Cl: 60
SO4: 125
HCO3: 44

It is your 1st AG IPA and looks good so go ahead and brew it. But a few things you could change and you can consider these for the next one.

No Munich! Its not about the malt, you will get plenty of malt presence from just 95% ale and 5% crystal. Munich is good for an English not American style.

Make the Centennial bittering charge at 90mins, you will use less hops and get the same ibu.

Forget the 20 addition. Alot of US brewery's are doing bittering and whirlpool only for this style so just aim for a 10m and WP.

Bring the gypsum for sulphate ppm up higher, much higher to 250-300ppm. Get the mash done with 150ppm and then add the rest with your bittering charge, that tip is free

Don't add gelatine as it will drop out about 70% of the flavour compounds/oils you got from the whirlpool and dry hops out of the beer.

Hopefully you can use some of that.

Pratty