What are you Brewing 2016?

[Chridech]

Took the liberty!
http://ir.library.oregonstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/1957/34093/Wolfe_thesis.pdf

Thanks Pratty1. Dinner guests about to arrive right now, but will get stuck in to this bit of light reading whilst brewing tomorrow.

 

[btrots87]

It is your 1st AG IPA and looks good so go ahead and brew it. But a few things you could change and you can consider these for the next one.

No Munich! Its not about the malt, you will get plenty of malt presence from just 95% ale and 5% crystal. Munich is good for an English not American style.

Make the Centennial bittering charge at 90mins, you will use less hops and get the same ibu.

Forget the 20 addition. Alot of US brewery's are doing bittering and whirlpool only for this style so just aim for a 10m and WP.

Bring the gypsum for sulphate ppm up higher, much higher to 250-300ppm. Get the mash done with 150ppm and then add the rest with your bittering charge, that tip is free

Don't add gelatine as it will drop out about 70% of the flavour compounds/oils you got from the whirlpool and dry hops out of the beer.

Hopefully you can use some of that.

Pratty

Cheers for the tips Pratty. It's funny I've read a few different opinions on grain bills for an IPA. Some say use only ale malt and Munich with no crystal, some say don't use Munich and then others say use all 3. In the end I put it in because I've put it in a few recent pale ales and liked the result. I didn't even think about adding the bittering at 90 min, makes perfect sense. I only decided to do a 90 minute boil so I could sparge with an extra 1.5L of water.

I'll add more gypsum like you said and skip the gelatine for this one. I don't mind a cloudy IPA.

 

[technobabble66]

Agree with your comment above, btrots87.

I've done what's basically an Ale malt + Munich IPA recently. Very happy with how it worked. So i could vouch for the use of Munich, as do many other brewers that crank out awesome IPAs (anyone know of some hop addict called Yob?).

I suppose I would suggest trying the either/or option - i.e.: Ale with either Munich or Crystal. Though that's because it's what i prefer.
I'd actually suggest simply trying 3 different grists: 1 with all 3, 1 with Ale+Munich, and 1 with Ale+Crystal, and see what you prefer. There are great commercial examples of all three, so they all can potentially work, its just a case of finding what's best for you


Otherwise i'd just say Pratty's wrong ... h34r: :lol:

 

[Dan Pratt]

Haha. Far from it.

I agree that it is preference to your own palate and mine certainly doesn't like Munich. Well worth experimenting with, without and just pale malt

The only time ive found Munich in an American ipa good is with a double IPA and no crystal, using about 10-15% munich with the rest pale malt and it was about = to 5% crystal 30L for final beer sweetness.

 

[manticle]

I'm a fan of munich in some hoppier US styles too but almost always with no crystal.

I am also partial to vienna (again without crystal).

As far as I can tell pratty, most of your tastes tend towards the west coast ipa type beers but there are nuances between various aipas that don't make one better over the other - it really comes down to preference.

However I'd suggest whichever route is taken, the grist should be reasonably simple so that the malt supports and showcases the hop profile - muddling 6 types of grain, overloading with crystal etc. will not give this result.

 

[timmi9191]

the grist should be reasonably simple so that the malt supports and showcases the hop profile - muddling 6 types of grain, overloading with crystal etc. will not give this result.

I agree in part with you manticle, but there is also purpose in using a variety of grains. For example I like some wheat in my IPA grist and in a Black IPA I also like oats. Not saying my way is best but I guess its horses courses, you add so as to get the result you like.

 

[manticle]

I do too. Just needs to be done with a judicious hand to achieve a desired result rather than thrown in together with the kitchen sink.

 

[shacked]

First crack at a lager today:

87% Gladfield American ale
11% Sugar
2% Acidulated

5g Cal Chloride and a mash PH of 5.4

Mashed at 62 / 72 / 77 C for 90 / 15 / 5 mins

16 IBU from Summer FWH; 60 min boil; no-chill.

OG: 1.044, FG: 1.007 with WLP830; ABV 4.8%

 

[Lord Raja Goomba I]

My best AIPA are simple grain bills and generally 91 or 93% base ale malt and 7-9% Crystal or some other caramelly sweet spec (or a careful use of rye ).

The exact measures change with what base I use. I used Gladfields American Ale malt and the proportions were all wrong vs say a MO or Perle. Even BB or JW Ale needs to be handled differently.

 

[TheWiggman]

Beer stocks are running low so I figured I need to get my brew on. I thought some simple, regular strength pale was on the cards and I've been stinging for some cascade. I bought 50g of Chinook and 1272 so this was a good opportunity to see what they add. So this morning I heated some water, then jumped into Beer Smith. Thought process went...
4kg Pale malt. Maybe some crystal? Nah. Looks like I have 400g of Vienna, not really enough but whatever. Checked stocks and over a kg! - in it goes. Might as well bump it up to 700, and round off some wheat for good measure for a tidy 5kg bill.
Mash in. Time passes, mashout, time to think about hops.
Bittering... early chinook? 22g with some late hops for an IBU around 30 sounds good for a 5% beer. But leftover Northern Brewer might as well be used up. Late in the boil I was still tossing up hops and thought a whirlpool addition for the Chinook would showcase it well. Balance this with 25g each of Amarillo and Cascade and hence -

5g NB
22g Chinook (11%) @ FWH

28g Chinook @ whirlpool (can't leave a few g - in it all goes!)
50g Amarillo/Cascade 50:50 in cube

Checked the OG - 1.059 out of nowhere. Some stellar efficiency there. Checked the calculated IBU - 48.

Accidental AIPA.

 

[mofox1]

Accidental AIPA.

Love those brew days.

Checking brewmate after I've mashed in for the OG, so I can quickly guess at what IBU I should target... oh yeah, what do I have in the freezer? Bugrit, it'll work out.

Wait, it's not the swap beer issit?

 

[TheWiggman]

Oh the swap beer! Brewed that 3 days ago (I'm on leave, been brewing like I just don't care). Pretty complex grain bill.

100% Bestmalz pilsner
40g Saaz @ 60 mins
10g Hersbrucker @ whirlpool

Secret ingredient is Wyeast 3787 Trappist High Gravity. Fermented at 22°C after pitching at 17, it climbed to 25°C after 48h because it was fermenting aggressively. I only have a single switch controller and had a heat belt on it (the ambient temp hasn't gone above 20). I swapped from hot to cold but any damage has been done.
Taste tested, no damage done and reluctant to swap. That yeast is an absolute ripper, lends more to a beer than you'd think possible.

 

[waggastew]

Brewed this one on the weekend. Cloned from a beer that won the Pale Ale category at the US 2015 GABF. Details were gleaned from a Brewing Network podcast.

First beer to try out my new O2 setup. Krausen was cranking less than 12hrs after pitching, very happy with that.

Recipe: CCP-1 Central Coast Monterey St Pale Ale
Style: American Pale Ale
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (30.0) 

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 34.12 l
Post Boil Volume: 29.12 l
Batch Size (fermenter): 23.00 l   
Bottling Volume: 21.00 l
Estimated OG: 1.051 SG
Estimated Color: 5.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 14.4 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 60.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 73.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt                   Name                                     Type          #        %/IBU         
8.00 g                Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) (Mash 60.0 mins Water Agent   1        -             
3.00 g                Epsom Salt (MgSO4) (Mash 60.0 mins)      Water Agent   2        -             
2.24 kg               Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)           Grain         3        35.1 %        
2.00 kg               Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM)            Grain         4        31.4 %        
1.08 kg               Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM)                    Grain         5        17.0 %        
0.54 kg               Wheat Malt, Ger (2.0 SRM)                Grain         6        8.5 %         
0.25 kg               Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)             Grain         7        4.0 %         
0.25 kg               Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM)    Grain         8        4.0 %         
5.00 g                Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Boil 60.0 m Hop           9        6.0 IBUs      
1.22 Items            Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 mins)        Fining        10       -             
10.00 g               Centennial [10.00 %] - Boil 10.0 min     Hop           11       3.5 IBUs      
10.00 g               Columbus (Tomahawk) [14.00 %] - Boil 10. Hop           12       4.9 IBUs      
40.00 g               Galaxy [14.00 %] - Boil 0.0 min          Hop           13       0.0 IBUs      
40.00 g               Mosaic (HBC 369) [12.25 %] - Boil 0.0 mi Hop           14       0.0 IBUs      
2.0 pkg               Safale American  (DCL/Fermentis #US-05)  Yeast         15       -             
1.22 tsp              Yeast Nutrient (Primary 3.0 days)        Other         16       -             


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Light Body, Batch Sparge
Total Grain Weight: 6.37 kg
----------------------------
Name              Description                             Step Temperat Step Time     
Mash In           Add 19.13 l of water at 73.8 C          65.0 C        60 min        

Sparge: Batch sparge with 2 steps (5.57l, 18.31l) of 75.6 C water

 

[technobabble66]

Hey waggastew, where did you get the O2 setup?

I thought Masters used to sell an O2 cylinder + tap setup (that was kinda cheap), but i can't find it anymore.

PS: recipe looks great!

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

40g benzomatic is $36. I think that is only around 28 Litres... So the tradeflame at Funnings is better value I hate to say it. Suppose if Benzomatic has more readily available bits of kit, cheaper and suitable for Oxygen I'd lean towards that. 28 Litres is 14 batches of beer so a few bucks per brew....

 

[technobabble66]

Do either of them supply the valve piece to go with the cylinder, though? That seems to be the tricky & pricey part.

 

[nosco]

Bunnings sell a valve/regulator that fits on the Tradeflame bottle the same as the ebay ones linked to except it doesnt have the gauge. The gauge isnt accurate enough to be useful i dont think.

 

[technobabble66]

Yep. Checked at bunnings, $54 for the110L bottle and $42.50 for the Regulator Conversion Kit. Spoke to a guy at CompanionBrands (the owners/distributors of Tradeflame). He implied that regulator would do the trick.

Interestingly, he "implied" because he refused to endorse using the industrial grade Tradeflame oxygen cylinder on beer. He insisted that I use food grade. Is that for real? I thought some Brewers in the gas industry suggested the industrial stuff is the *same* as the food grade stuff.
Do others using these bottles ever notice a taint etc?

 

[DJ_L3ThAL]

It is the same product. POTENTIALLY filled on a different line with POTENTIALLY non food grade lubes etc. but I'm yet to come across them in my experience [emoji57]

 

[Frothy1]

Bunnings sell a valve/regulator that fits on the Tradeflame bottle the same as the ebay ones linked to except it doesnt have the gauge. The gauge isnt accurate enough to be useful i dont think.

Yes, not very accurate.

You have to guess where the needle is sitting under 3 L/m