Way too low for OG!?

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Xander

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So I've just finished my first BIAB (first All Grain for that matter!!) which is an IPA

I have 12L with a gravity of 1.052 - this should be the gravity at 19L! Should I put some dextrose in so I can take the beer further, or just leave the beer as it is,and scale back the dry hop additions???

I have the wort in the fermenter, but haven't pitched the yeast.

What should I do??
 
I would leave it as it is, just my two cents. Are you using brew software?
 
Leave it as it is. You can drop the dry hops back a bit if you like to what your intended rate was originally (ie, 1gram per litre or whatever you had planned).

More importantly, try to find out what went wrong and calculate your efficiency. As already stated, brewing software really helps here.
 
Thanks guys - I only have 2 x 10L kettles - Not a 30L like I really need.

I split the brew, knowing I would have I high OG and would need to add water to it, which I did. I didn't think I would fall this far short though!!!


Live and learn! Looks like a proper brew kettle is needed!!!!
 
If you really want to up volume and keep gravity, use DME not dextrose.

But no real need, go with your 12L and enjoy your first all grain. Skip the dry hopping and be ready for a big IPA.

Beercus
 
As I've used a hop schedule for a 19L batch, will this be too bitter?

If I let it sit for a few months, will the bitterness mellow out?
 
I'd buy a kilo of light dry malt extract, dissolve it in 7 litres of boiling water, let it cool (covered) and add it to your brew. It'll technically be a partial brew but as most of the wort will be AG, you'll hardly notice it.

Also if you're 40% below estimated volume but hopped for an IPA at full volume it is going to be crazy bitter. If you decide to just leave it for a time then the bitterness will smooth out but not decrease. It'll be more palatable after a few months but still very bitter. You'll be lacking that balance between the malty sweetness and hoppy bitterness.

But do as you see fit, sir and chalk this one up to a learning experience - we've all had them. Best of luck with the next brew!

- Meno
 
Consider the esky mash tun its the bees knees for small set up maximum efficiancy. In my opinion if you want to be ALL GRAIN.
I dont think I could pull of the BIAB thing when I wanted to make 19 to 38l brews.
Lucky bargain I got a 75lt Esky for $90. Coupla bits, hack engeneering total $120.00.
Mash in an esky then use your kettles to heat up sparge water.
Boil each run off at a time to minimise hot breaks.
 
I wouldn't add dextrose (unless I do a strong Belgian which calls for table sugar) - balancing it with DME could be a better option. For 7 lt you will need about 1 KG of DME to get it to 1.052 (assuming 1.04-1.43 ppg). Without this, you bitterness to OG ratio will be out of sync leaving beer out of the balance - probably way too bitter. Some yeast can reduce the perceived bitterness (like Danstar's BRY) but I wouldn't trust it absolutely.

I personally dislike BIAB due to various reasons -- the biggest will be poor filtration capability (that could be my own capability as well :) ).

When doing a proper mash, the grain bed acts as a filter (after recirculating the initial running of wort over it) -- something I wasn't able to achieve with a bag. Actually, I moved away from the partial mash with extract brewing to all grain solely for the cleanness reasons. Since doing the all grain the amount of trub matter in my fermenter has reduced dramatically - I'd say by 60-80% which aids the taste, amount of beer collected and facilitates washing the yeast.

Everything you need (except a brew thermometer) can be bought in Bunnings (actually Target has dirt cheap coolers -- I was only skeptical re their quality so stayed with a known brand). How to build a tun - google http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to/g1580/how-to-build-your-own-home-brewing-mash-tun/ or search on the byo.com

My own efficiency is 85% - I stir the mash and mill fine with no issues to the cleanness of the wort.
 
I've used dextrose in Imperial and double IPAs to great effect.

My current Imperial IPA has 1KG dextrose, and it's the best beer I've made yet.
 
Whops, I misread the original.

I'd say a liitle glucose and boiled water would be okay, but not for 19L, an effective 40% adjunct batch. Your beer would come out thin and extremely dry. Using DME instead won't have those effects, but I have several misgivings about going that route so late.

Either go up a litre or two using glucose or, better, leave it as is and pitch a.s.a.p.
 
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