Users Of The "no Chiller Method"

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
This is a bit OT, I'm not a scientist but I am an IT Professional and do you know how many viruses are out there right now as you all tap on your keyboards about 'to chill' or 'not to chill'.

For me, none. Absolutely none.
 
Sorry if this has been asked before (you'll forgive me for not wanting to read every post on the subject!!) but how do people go about getting hot wort from the boiler into their chilling vessel of choice if their boiler doesn't have a tap?

I'm interested in having a crack at this, but I'm not keen on trying to siphon boiling wort.
 
I wouldn't be keen on that either. I think this method would be too complicated without a tap on the kettle unless you can just let the wort cool in the kettle overnight.
 
Using an auto-syphon and silicone piping, you just put the auto-syphon in, jiggle it and YARRRRGH, THARR SHE FLOWS! :blink:

I've heard you can get them from car parts stores or something.

Edit: I just put the lid on my pot and leave it overnight.
 
Thar she might melt too, according to some posts I've read on beeradvocate. That and you have to open the top of the kettle, which both cools the wort quicker and allows contamination to enter. Not big increases in risk but increases nonetheless.
 
Well, I said I wasn't keen on the idea oh syphoning so I assume you were talking to adam. With transferring from kettle tap to jerry via tubing I have not noticed any oxidation so far but then again I struggle to leave beers longer than a couple months. I don't think it's any different than the transfer from mash tun to kettle though.
 
She (the auto-syphon) might melt too, according to some posts I've read on beeradvocate.

Too right Kai. The auto-syphons will bend with hot liquids. On my first AG I had to transfer some boiling water for some reason. This resulted in a banana-shaped auto-syphon. I now use it in the morning to hit myself over the head if I've done atrocious posting the night before ;)
 
Why is this thread degenerating from the knockers again... It clearly states that this thread is for USERS of the "no chill method". Can we get back on track please. I for one am fed up of the endless carping from those not interested in giving it a go...

cheers Ross


Quick question guys. I did my 1st no chill the other week, and when i checked it yesterday, it was 1.002, yep, 1002. I think its because i used 2/3's of a yeast cake, plus the fact that when you dump the wort on the yeast, it aerates like mad. I think that's why it came down so much. And, no, to the knockers, its not contaminated, just a litte more light bodied than i'd like haha!!. Any ideas guys??. Maybe i should have removed more yeast before dumping the wort on??. BTW, i used white labs premium bitter ale yeast, an absolute gem of a yeast i believe.
 
Quick question guys. I did my 1st no chill the other week, and when i checked it yesterday, it was 1.002, yep, 1002.

Very interesting mje1980 - I occaisionally use a "semi no chill method" when there's a wind blowing on brew day, i transfer the wort at 65c+ into the fermenter (hot enough to knock any wild yeast over) & let chill overnight in the fridge before pitching the yeast. The last 2 brews I did this to fermented down further than i expected. My 1082 Imperial APA dropped to 1010 a massive 87% attenuation. There's certainly no off flavours in either brew, maybe the break material is liked by the yeast... anyone else getting above average attenuation with their no chill brews?

cheers Ross
 
I thought it was recommended that you only use about a cup of yeast cake from a previous batch - not the whole cake.

Check the repitching section on this page: http://www.mrmalty.com/pitching.php

Apparently, reusing a whole yeast cake means you don't get some of the flavours that are produced during yeast reproduction.
 
When we did the brewday on the weekend, we siphoned from the 100L kettle without a tap using a metre of silicone hose - yes it was hot but we wore gloves, immersed the tubing, put a finger over the top, and then ran the tubing into the bottom of the cube while holding the other end of the tubing close to the top of the hot wort. Worked fine and we just lined up the cubes so we could quickly pull the tube out and fill the next one.
You can see it here: (tilt your head 90 degrees!)

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...=si&img=525
 
... anyone else getting above average attenuation with their no chill brews?

cheers Ross

Yes, and much stronger ferments. I had my Munich APA filled to 20L in my 30L fermenter only to come home and find the WLP001 out the top and down the sides much like your recent piccy of your stout Ross. Gerard_M commented that he'd never seen 001 do that before, and the same is currently happening with my RyeIPA. Looks like a massive head of cauliflower on top of the fermenter. Cleaned it up last night, but it's at it again this morning, lost about 3L so far. Took a piccy of it last night, I'll post it later when I get home.

Cheers.
 
Did my third NC Sunday. These guys that say a chiller apparatus takes 15 minutes to use crack me up. By the time you sanitize, drag out hoses, blah blah blah, clean up, put stuff away... Ain't no way you're gonna pull that off in 15 minutes!

But I have to say that I like walking away from a brew day at flameout. I just put the sealed lid on the BK, point a fan at it, and call it quits.
 
Canetoad
Can someone tell me what is easier about putting wort in a cube and in a fridge and then tranferring to a fermenter as compared with running it thru a chiller straight into a fermenter (takes 15 minutes)? Assuming that you're somewhere that has no water, I can almost see the sense, but that isn't 99.99percent of us.
I sense an almost religious intolerance towards people who want to make great beer and who insist that "doing the little things right" is important. I wish I had never read this thread.


The thread heading clearly states that this thread is for "users of the no chill method" and was created so that people who actually USE this method can factually report their results and findings, like Ross I am getting fed up with people who can't follow basic forum guidelines.

If you can't post to this thread with actual first hand information on the use of the no chiller method then don't bother posting, we already know all of the alleged pitfalls of this method and most of us are trying to contribute by presenting results from using the method.

Cheers
Andrew

Wow... sorry to crash your little clubhouse. I heard about this board and this was an interesting current topic. I didn't know everyone was insecure with their methods.

troll
 
Good, back on topic!

I no-chilled my first AG, OG was around 1.035 (not sure totally). It went down to 1.005 (85% attenuation) after primary, still bubbling occasionally in secondary. Tastes awesome, apart from it being warm and flat!
 
What of HSA?

Specifically while racking or transferring nearly boiling wort, particularly w/ an autosiphon.

Currently on tap I have a German Pilsner. It was made using the NC method. For this particular batch, my pick-up tube had not sealed properly and I couldn't get a siphon from the tap. So I resorted to siphoning over the side of the kettle. Filled the hose with boiled water, placed one end in the kettle other in the cube and let rip. Not and idle approach and not one I would want to do again, because of the obvious dangers.

Now in regards to oxidisation there is none. This beer is tasting nice and clean., There are no funky flavours caused by the NC, and no oxidised flavours due to the siphoning over the side of the kettle. Anyone who doubts that the beer is clean tasting is welcome to come over and taste for themselves.

Cheers
MAH
 
Hotter the wort, greater the oxidation, so yes there is a difference.

All things considered, draining w/ a valve and tube to the bottom of the fermenter shouldn't pose a significant risk. I would argue though it is a greater risk than proper whirlpool chilling or sending directly to an inline chiller.


Well, I guess you answered your own question then. What of HSA? Not a significant risk.
 
Hi All

Can I ask why you tend to use cubes to store the wort pre-pitching? I would have thought that these would be harder to clean than a old fermenter or even a 20l food grade bucket.

Cheers
 
i use a cube and have no problem cleaning. i soak in napisan for a few hours then soak in iodopher solution for a while then rinse and never have any problems.
 
Jimmy

the advantage of the cubes is that you can squeeze them in to get out any remaining air. They can then be kept longer with no contamination/oxidation risk. If you are just pitching the next day, a fermenter should be fine. I do the same as Bobby to clean/sanitise the cubes and it's pretty easy.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top