Uk Liquid Yeast

[stux]

Heh,

Any tips on swirling 60L in a 60L fermenter?

 

[warra48]

Whitbread WY1099 is the last strain I've been using.
Still have a test tubes or two to culture up.
I do like what it did in an Amber Ale and a Bitter, so will persist.

DrS: No way will I get the funds from the minister of finance to get into kegging and hand pumping, so bottling it will remain.
Every time the Reserve drops the interest rates, there's loud hoorahs from the mortgage payers, but it shittss us self-funded retirees, I can tell you, as it reduces our earnings, and brings us a step closer to applying to suckle on the public teat.

 

[warra48]

Heh,

Any tips on swirling 60L in a 60L fermenter?

Paint stirrer chucked into your drill? Takes the hard work out of it.

 

[TasChris]

About 7 months ago I brewed a Mild and a Brown Ale using Wyeast 1968. Both beers turned out well, were mashed at 66 and the wort was oxegenated and agitated during fermentation. A strong fermenting starter was used for each beer.

All in all I think that I did everything I could to ensure complete fermentation. The beers both reached the the correct FG ( 1010 and 1012) with attenuation of 71.1 and 76.0 for the two beers..

Both beers were kegged and were fantastic, the kegs were consumed in approx four weeks post fermentation. Approx 2 week ago I found a stash of 8 bottles from the two batches. All 8 bottles were gushers, no off flavors, no bad tastes at all in fact little flavor. I think the yeast has scrubbed out much of the malt flavors, and a fair bit of the body. I measured the gravity and the beer had dropped to 1006 for both beers.

I think that 1968 keeps on chewing at the more complex fermantables thus leading to over carbonation and impacting on flavor and body.

No big drama, just have to consume the beer nice and early, which is pretty much what happens in UK

Cheers
Chris

 

[warra48]

I think you got it TasChris, that's been my experience.
Definitely consume nice and early.

 

[JDW81]

Same happened to me. The beer kept getting better flavour wise, but the carbonation level kept climbing as well.

 

[verysupple]

Yup, same here. I bottle all my beer so I do two things to minimise the over carbonation when using 1968: CC it for at least a few days to drop out as much yeast as possible and then drink it while it's young.

I sent Wyeast an email a while back asking about 1968 and it's dendency to keep fermenting in the bottle. They just put it down to the yeast floccing early and then starting up again after bottling. I really doubt that's what's going on seeing as my last batch with it hit 78% apparent attenuation before I bottled and they say it should only manage between 67 - 71%.

 

[MikeHell]

This is precisely correct, in my humble opinion. The issue is not about (extra) oxygenation, it's about rousing.

Heavily flocculent top cropping english ale yeasts are pure evil on a homebrew stage, as far as I'm concerned. You have to beat them with a stick morning, noon and night to keep them working and if you don't, they fall to the top and the bottom.

Then they fall to the bottom and you're left with an unfinished beer full of diacetyl.

But you can't leave that beer in a homebrew fermenter, because in the time it takes that lazy bloody yeast to finish the job from the bottom, the beer oxidises and the yeast autolyses to boot!

Nail on the head right there!

 

[TasChris]

Nail on the head right there!

No I don't quite fully agree.
I think that you can perform all the various steps for good yeast and fermentation management such as size of pitch, vitatilty of pitch, oxygenation, rousing, mash temp, mutli step mashing, yeast nutrients, ferment temps, raising ferment temps at end of ferment, racking, CCing etc etc however some of the UK yeasts will continue to slowly munch away on the complex sugars over time.
This leads to over carbonation and reduction in body and flavor as the yeast eventually scrubs out more and more over time.
Mind you there is an easy cure. Drink up.
Cheers
Chris