The Speedleroo (diy Speidel)

[thebigwilk]

Love the idea of the simplistic single vessel brewing system and was keen on buying a speidel braumeister. The price was the big kicker, so like most Aussies brewers I thought I'll bloody build on of those little *******s myself, still a working progress ,so far about $500 spent and brewing some great beers the pump is mounted behind the controller box and if you are wondering I was brewing a smoked imperial Irish red when photos were taken.

 

[Dan Pratt]

Love the idea of the simplistic single vessel brewing system and was keen on buying a speidel braumeister. The price was the big kicker, so like most Aussies brewers I thought I'll bloody build on of those little *******s myself, still a working progress ,so far about $500 spent and brewing some great beers the pump is mounted behind the controller box and if you are wondering I was brewing a smoked imperial Irish red when photos were taken.

Hello speidel for 500.....wow, ok.
Can we get some more photos eg. The inside with and without the malt pipe....and info about the control panel would be great too.

 

[Bribie G]

Any pics of the malt pipe and hoisting arrangements? Looks great.

 

[Florian]

Love that box the controller is housed in. Is that actually watertight?
Where from?

I take it you're circulating from bottom to top through the hose?

 

[Batz]

Not keen on Guinness then?

Looking good mate. :beer:

 

[thebigwilk]

Pumping out from the front fitting then into pump then out of pump into the two fittings on the side one above one below mash, both have 90 degree elbow fittings inside of the kettle to create a whirlpool effect to eliminate any dead spots or uneven heat above and below the mash. There is a false bottom that the grain bag sits on . There is about eight liters of foundation water below the false bottom where the heat element is . On the inlet to the top fitting the wort flow can be regulated by the small inline tap to avoid a compacted mash, while the one below the mash is also creating a whirlpool affect at a higher speed so that the wort passes by the heat element at a fast speed so there is no scotching of the wort during mashing.

 

[_HOME_BREW_WALLACE_]

Looks like one of then old school commodore computers........ bet it makes great beer though! :icon_cheers:

 

[thebigwilk]

Love that box the controller is housed in. Is that actually watertight?
Where from?

I take it you're circulating from bottom to top through the hose?

The housing is splash proof, the switches have a ip65 rating which means water proof . The timer has'nt got a water proof rating nor has the temp controller. After buying the temp controller found one with an ip65 rating , still cant find a timer thats water proof that will fit in the controller box . This is the reason why i bought the marine stereo housing (controller) so when working with water i can close the face unit.

 

[Florian]

marine stereo housing, that makes sense. Great idea, especially as you can still see the controls when the cover is closed.

 

[Edak]

Definitely need more photos! Good job from what i can see so far. Am I right to assume that the temp is adjusted manually after each step?

is that a pid or a thermo?

 

[thebigwilk]

Definitely need more photos! Good job from what i can see so far. Am I right to assume that the temp is adjusted manually after each step?

is that a pid or a thermo?

Yes you do have to manually adjust the temp controller and timer, heres a few more pics . I have used a suspended false bottom system by shaping some 304 stainless rod to keep the false bottom about 80mm of the bottom . This is allowing enough foundation water to be whirlpooled around the heating element (About ten litres) and to eliminate any cold spots or dead spots below the mash, at the same time the wort is being pumped up above and then whirpooled above the mash with about ten litres of wort or 100mm of mash depth before the grain (I use a grain bag too).

 

[Edak]

Yes you do have to manually adjust the temp controller and timer, heres a few more pics . I have used a suspended false bottom system by shaping some 304 stainless rod to keep the false bottom about 80mm of the bottom . This is allowing enough foundation water to be whirlpooled around the heating element (About ten litres) and to eliminate any cold spots or dead spots below the mash, at the same time the wort is being pumped up above and then whirpooled above the mash with about ten litres of wort or 100mm of mash depth before the grain (I use a grain bag too).

Looks great! I like the whirlpool idea and the hooks for the false bottom.

Any specs on that perf steel? Thickness, hole size and source would be good to share

 

[kelbygreen]

so there is no malt pipe?? how do you get the grain out without getting it everywhere?

 

[bum]

One of the posts says he uses a bag.

 

[kelbygreen]

ahh that explains it. I was just looking at the pictures

 

[Edak]

If you want to clear up that stainless then get some bar keepers friend and that will clean and repassivate almost immediately.

 

[Eggs]

looks great. I am also looking at boilding something like this. A couple of questions. Using a bag do you still get clearer wert than just using a bag? or does all the sediment still pass through into the boil?
Do you sparge at all? Ive been wondering about all these brewmiester type builds wether they get the maximum sugar from the grain. Cheers.

 

[QldKev]

Excellent design. I've been going to make one like this for over a year for when I want to do test beers and beers I don't want multiple cubes of, eg a Lambic. I like the idea as it keeps it fairly simple, and the return line under the bottom to help prevent scorching. About the only difference I was looking at was using nuts and a bolt for legs rather than the hangers.

I think you have got me motivated as I've been wanting to do a weizen for a while.

QldKev

 

[thebigwilk]

Looks great! I like the whirlpool idea and the hooks for the false bottom.

Any specs on that perf steel? Thickness, hole size and source would be good to share

The whirlpool idea has a couple of positive affects on the process, it helps not only in the movement of the wort around the heat element but also prevents a problem faced by most mash tuns and thats the need of a central pick up line located in the center of the base of the kettle. The whirlpool disturbs any pattern or path of least resistance created by the out let suction and helps maintain an even suction below the mash. The hooks work well when the mash is over I pull the hooks up and remove the false bottom during the boil allowing it to be a true rolling boil. The hole size for the perf steel is 5mm and the thickness is 2mm (2mm is over kill if i placed two bricks on the ground and put the false bottom on it and stood on the thing it would'nt bend) the radius is 350mm I think you could go a little bit bigger or smaller hole size since 99% of the filtering is being done by the grain bag. I got the false bottom from Geordi a stainless steel fabricating company, ask to see their off cuts thats were i found this one, i got it for $35 and the hooks for $5 http://www.geordi.com.au/

 

[MaltyHops]

...
Do you sparge at all? Ive been wondering about all these brewmiester type builds wether they get the maximum sugar from the grain. Cheers.

Don't have one of these systems but can't see why you couldn't - depends on whether you can be bothered to or not. I imagine one great aspect of these systems is the convenience of heating water, mash, drain, boil and it's done.

But at the end of the mash out, you could drain off a good amount of high grav wort off into a cube, say, after having heated up an appropriate amount of water (maybe with phos acid added so it's at the right pH) which is then used to sparge. The size of the main pot compared to the maltpipe would affect how easily this could be done (ie. smaller maltpipe would allow sparging more easily).