The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

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Hi Bigmac,

I plan on using the controller with my grainfather also. How are the temperature ramps, and temperature stability with the controller and your grainfather?

Would you mind sharing your controller settings?

Would really appreciate it.

Thanks.
 
Finally got my china delivered ss cap and reducer to fit the supplied probe so I could use with my hex thanks to some chap earlier in the thread for the idea[emoji106] in case someone missed it here's a pic
It's a 3/4 cap and 3/4-1/2inch reducer
ImageUploadedByAussie Home Brewer1455334092.227656.jpg
 
So did you cut threads into the hole in the 3/4" cap? If so what specs?

Looks great! I have yet to build that bit up.
 
Looks good. Hope you dont ever get an air bubble in there though, otherwise your temp probe will just be measuring the temp of a bubble! Best practice is to put the temp probe on the bottom, not top of a tee.
 
I've never thought of that. It hasn't been a problem yet on this or my previous setup. But you have me worried now. I thought it would be best to have facing the flow as opposed to coming in from the side. But an air bubble never crossed my mind. Thanks for the tip.
 
Just finished wiring up my Brauduino and now to install the temperature probe into my Crown Urn. I've decided that installing the probe underneath is the best option and removed the base to have a look. Given that I'm going to lock the thermostat on full can this simply be bypassed (ie hardwire brown/live together) and let the PID in the Brauduino manage the element?

Looking at the size of the hole used for the Crown URN thermometer, I suspect this will be a direct swap out for the supplied 1/4" Brauduino temp probe.

So, current thinking

1) Hardwire the live wires together, removing the thermostat
2) Remove the Crown Urn temperature wire
3) Install Brauduino temperature probe directly in place of the existing one and reuse the provided hole.

Any thoughts on this?

F
 
Post a picture for those of is that haven't seen the underneath of one. In principle yes, you want the Brauduino to control the temp, not the urn.
 
Have drilled a new hole for the temp probe and going to simply leave the urn at maximum. This way I can see how it goes and keep the protection circuits in place for the Crown element. Will see how this goes and then if needed make some modifications later. Now, to try and screw this temp probe in tight...damn awkward!

F
 
I have modified the crown urn. Got rid of the boil dry protection and thermostat. Made one hole large enough for the wort return and left the other hole for the temp probe. It was a little bit oversize for the probe but it still seals and works well. Actually I think it is an old birko urn.
 
hi everyone, I'm Fab from italy

after two succesfully test with mash and boil (all the things goes perfect), on the brewday something strange happened.

at the auto mode start, during the pump test, an orizontal scrolling text (made of letters, symbols and squares) appeared on my lcd and after few seconds the controller has shut down. after this the controller is dead.

I've checked all the connections (based on the controller build pdf), nothing wrong but nothing to do, no sign of activity.

i have disconnected the arduino board and plugged with usb cable at the pc, but no sign of activity, green led off . Only with a 12v charger plugged in, the led near the reset button become green but anyway no sign of activity on the pc: the device is not recognized (I have installed the proper driver downloaded from the web).

I have placed the arduino board on the pcb and this is regularly powered (green led on) but no sign of activity on the lcd.

at this point i think that the processor is dead...

anyone have experienced something similar?

i have bought another arduino mega 2560... but i am very disappointed

I think the Arduino board is covered by the warranty, but how can I obtain warranty service? I have nothing that proves the purchase.
 
Hi fab,

Can you post photos of your wiring please? What pump are you using?
 
jabbos, your wiring looks too tight in that small box. I think you will have trouble with those SSRs and 12V power supply overheating and then melting.

I think you need a MUCH bigger box for cooling capacity
 
heyhey said:
jabbos, your wiring looks too tight in that small box. I think you will have trouble with those SSRs and 12V power supply overheating and then melting.

I think you need a MUCH bigger box for cooling capacity
whats the basis for that thought?
Its the standard box supplied with the kit, the SSR's have a heatsink on the back and that wiring is great and as per the recommendations by Lael and others on here
 
I only caught the picture from the gallery. I had my SSRs that close and they cooked. Even with a heat sink. I'm not making a qualified recommendation
 
Apologies for not know what I'm talking about
 
ok, but wiring it's ok or not? anyone have had something similar to my arduino board problem? I hope that was a corrupted arduino board... tomorrow i'm going to substitute the board and i hope that all the things will be ok

I haven't mentioned in the previuous post: i have a 2500w heating element

there are some possibility that the pcb is fried? As I had said previously the arduino board plugged through usb at the pc is not recognized (also powered with a 12v charger - green led on), i think that arduino board is the problem... but at the moment i don't know

heyhey, i have also a pc fun installed on the heatsink
 
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