The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[zwitter]

Hi
Arduinos are amazing but even the experts blow them up. I have 2 dead R3 s and now a dead mega as well. Plugged the mega in backwards when tired and does not work any more.

I think it sounds like the Arduino is shot. I would also say that the recent code I think still runs in the cheaper R3 arduino and they are quarter the cost.

Your wiring is confusing as you have used two blue wires for the 12 v to the board. And the other wiring is positioned too close to trace where it goes. I would suggest maybe unplugging all but the 12 v supply to the board and then check each connection before plugging it in. You have the relay connected but are you using both SSRs too?
Can not see the pic as I type. It is possible to use the relay to switch 12 v to the input of the SSR and SSR to switch pump but I would suggest to get it working as it was designed and then make changes.

James


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[jabbos]

Hi
Arduinos are amazing but even the experts blow them up. I have 2 dead R3 s and now a dead mega as well. Plugged the mega in backwards when tired and does not work any more.

I think it sounds like the Arduino is shot. I would also say that the recent code I think still runs in the cheaper R3 arduino and they are quarter the cost.

Your wiring is confusing as you have used two blue wires for the 12 v to the board. And the other wiring is positioned too close to trace where it goes. I would suggest maybe unplugging all but the 12 v supply to the board and then check each connection before plugging it in. You have the relay connected but are you using both SSRs too?
Can not see the pic as I type. It is possible to use the relay to switch 12 v to the input of the SSR and SSR to switch pump but I would suggest to get it working as it was designed and then make changes.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

hi james,
thank you.

here a pic maybe more clear

http://imgur.com/KU92Jg2

about SSR: can i use one of the two or i have to use both?

i have used the scheme in pdf attached here https://www.dropbox.com/s/45769hyb6p0bfyd/BrauduinoControllerBuild_v1.pdf?dl=0%C2%A0

a pic here

http://imgur.com/xwIx8dO

 

[zwitter]

Hi Jabbos

The wiring is probably OK but the use of 2 same coloured wires makes it confusing. Should use different colour for + and -.

You do not need both SSRs.

I would program the new arduino mega just using the USB to power it.

Then if you can measure the voltage on the plug from power supply for voltage and polarity.

Check it powers up and you get the display and buttons work.

Run setup and set basic functions . Electric etc

Then plug temp probe in and check you get temp.

Put in manual mode and try turning pump on and see if you get the green LED on. (did this work before?)

You should also get the relay clicking when the pump turns on and off. Do not connect the plug for pump yet.

If that all works then continue.

Then connect SSR wire and try turning heat on and see if the red LED and the led on the SSR both come on.

If any stage does not work turn off and report back.

Common faults can be loose LEDs., Arduino connected backwards or pins not lined up correctly, polarised connections backwards. Also possible that transistors on the shield board have been blown up.

Please also report your electronic knowledge and the tools you have at hand.

Cheers
James


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[jabbos]

thanks james,
tonight i'm going to substitute arduino and try all your advices

 

[ken_gilchrist]

Afternoon guys,
I need a little help with my Mathos controller.

Firstly I must say that after just completing my first ever AG brew this controller made the transition from extract so simple. It's amazing and to everyone involved thanks heaps.

Now the "problem" no a big issue I just cant get my controller to go past 98 deg for the boil. I have the target temp as 101 but it wont get there. I do have a boil but it wont start my timer and alerts for hop additions until it reaches target temp. I think there may have been some ting on one of the videos posted but cant remember. What do I need to adjust in the setup menu to over spec the element? TIA

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wmp37y2z9205m10/20160228_150638.jpg?dl=0

 

[SBOB]

likely your PID loop parameters need tuning.. When its close to boiling is the 'H' relay/LED/status indicator turning on and off?

 

[ken_gilchrist]

LED has stayed on constant.I haven't really noticed the "H" during this stage. But I would say its been on solid too

 

[ken_gilchrist]

Now my pump wont work....AARRRGGGHHHH.

Holding down the button down in manual to run the counterflow chiller and the LED flicks then goes off again. Any ideas?

 

[SBOB]

and have you verified that the temp reading is accurate, as if its actually boiling then it should be reading ~100 and not 98..perhaps the temp probe reading needs tweaking

 

[SBOB]

there is a parameter which either enables or disables the pump in the boil (which is essentially anything >80c)... I'll bet 2c that its set to 'No', which is preventing the pump operating

 

[ken_gilchrist]

Now my pump wont work....AARRRGGGHHHH.

Holding down the button down in manual to run the counterflow chiller and the LED flicks then goes off again. Any ideas?

All good... sorted now. Phew HAHAHA

 

[ken_gilchrist]

there is a parameter which either enables or disables the pump in the boil (which is essentially anything >80c)... I'll bet 2c that its set to 'No', which is preventing the pump operating

Thanks SBOB. I have sorted it now. Will go in and check the parameters once I have done. Still a very pleasing intro to AG brewing

Thanks again

 

[ken_gilchrist]

there is a parameter which either enables or disables the pump in the boil (which is essentially anything >80c)... I'll bet 2c that its set to 'No', which is preventing the pump operating

and have you verified that the temp reading is accurate, as if its actually boiling then it should be reading ~100 and not 98..perhaps the temp probe reading needs tweaking

 

[djgilmore]

hi everyone, I'm Fab from italy

after two succesfully test with mash and boil (all the things goes perfect), on the brewday something strange happened.

at the auto mode start, during the pump test, an orizontal scrolling text (made of letters, symbols and squares) appeared on my lcd and after few seconds the controller has shut down. after this the controller is dead.

I've checked all the connections (based on the controller build pdf), nothing wrong but nothing to do, no sign of activity.

i have disconnected the arduino board and plugged with usb cable at the pc, but no sign of activity, green led off . Only with a 12v charger plugged in, the led near the reset button become green but anyway no sign of activity on the pc: the device is not recognized (I have installed the proper driver downloaded from the web).

I have placed the arduino board on the pcb and this is regularly powered (green led on) but no sign of activity on the lcd.

at this point i think that the processor is dead...

anyone have experienced something similar?

i have bought another arduino mega 2560... but i am very disappointed

I think the Arduino board is covered by the warranty, but how can I obtain warranty service? I have nothing that proves the purchase.

Hi Jabbos,

I recently had a similar issue, I had accidentally shorted the connections of the Temperature sensor. After 2 years of use the wire at the connector had stretched and then twisted causing the short.
This killed the Arduino Uno (As per yours would switch on but computer would not recognize it), I replaced the Arduino and then found out i had also damaged the LCD (half the pixels would not work) and 1 of the tracks on the board between the Arduino and LCD was also damaged.

Took me 2 months to get it figured out and up and running, while i was at it i updated the software to the latest version of ArdBir.

 

[MitchD]

Afternoon guys,
I need a little help with my Mathos controller.

Firstly I must say that after just completing my first ever AG brew this controller made the transition from extract so simple. It's amazing and to everyone involved thanks heaps.

Now the "problem" no a big issue I just cant get my controller to go past 98 deg for the boil. I have the target temp as 101 but it wont get there. I do have a boil but it wont start my timer and alerts for hop additions until it reaches target temp. I think there may have been some ting on one of the videos posted but cant remember. What do I need to adjust in the setup menu to over spec the element? TIA

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wmp37y2z9205m10/20160228_150638.jpg?dl=0

Water has a set boiling temperature, once there it will not rise any more and setting your boil set point above this will prevent the controller from starting the boil timer. So what you should do is test what temp point waer boils (98) and set your boil to this. When that temperature is reached the clock will start and pwm will control how vigorous the boil is.

If you are close to sea level water should boil at 100, I'd check and calibrate the temp probe then re set the boil set point.

 

[zwitter]

Hi Ken
You are getting excellent assistance from some of the guys here but another thing that may come into play is the position of your temp probe.
There is setting for internal and external and pump in boil etc and PID settings. All these will affect the way your system operates.
The recent software does allow calibration or offset of the temp probe but really they should be within a very close range.
Easiest to adjust the PID for a slight over temp and maybe set boil to 99deg. But the red LED should give an indication of the element turning off.
The other thing is heat loss. I wrapped mine in foam and fitted a domed lid to get a strong rolling boil. The pump head and tubing all radiate heat so any effort to reduce the heat loss will improve the boil.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[ken_gilchrist]

Water has a set boiling temperature, once there it will not rise any more and setting your boil set point above this will prevent the controller from starting the boil timer. So what you should do is test what temp point waer boils (98) and set your boil to this. When that temperature is reached the clock will start and pwm will control how vigorous the boil is.

If you are close to sea level water should boil at 100, I'd check and calibrate the temp probe then re set the boil set point.

Hi Ken
You are getting excellent assistance from some of the guys here but another thing that may come into play is the position of your temp probe.
There is setting for internal and external and pump in boil etc and PID settings. All these will affect the way your system operates.
The recent software does allow calibration or offset of the temp probe but really they should be within a very close range.
Easiest to adjust the PID for a slight over temp and maybe set boil to 99deg. But the red LED should give an indication of the element turning off.
The other thing is heat loss. I wrapped mine in foam and fitted a domed lid to get a strong rolling boil. The pump head and tubing all radiate heat so any effort to reduce the heat loss will improve the boil.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Thanks guys for all the advice, I really appreciated it yesterday. I will go and check the set up this afternoon and make some adjustments.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[ken_gilchrist]

Hi Ken
You are getting excellent assistance from some of the guys here but another thing that may come into play is the position of your temp probe.
There is setting for internal and external and pump in boil etc and PID settings. All these will affect the way your system operates.
The recent software does allow calibration or offset of the temp probe but really they should be within a very close range.
Easiest to adjust the PID for a slight over temp and maybe set boil to 99deg. But the red LED should give an indication of the element turning off.
The other thing is heat loss. I wrapped mine in foam and fitted a domed lid to get a strong rolling boil. The pump head and tubing all radiate heat so any effort to reduce the heat loss will improve the boil.

James


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Ok so I have done a calibration of the temp probe and it was within .2 degree of another digital probe so I didn't even bother changing it. I did bump up my "Heat in Boil" from 98% to 100% and I have changed the temp boil to 99 deg. Other than that I have set it up exactly the same as your video, is there anything else I need to do?

Also when I go into manage recipe/save setting it says memory full. How many different recipes can I have pre-loaded? also how do I create a recipe and upload it?

Is there some sort of operating manual that will detail exactly what each setting parameter does?

Sorry for all the NOOB questions, I just want to understand the functions of the controller better

Thanks

 

[jabbos]

Hi Jabbos,

I recently had a similar issue, I had accidentally shorted the connections of the Temperature sensor. After 2 years of use the wire at the connector had stretched and then twisted causing the short.
This killed the Arduino Uno (As per yours would switch on but computer would not recognize it), I replaced the Arduino and then found out i had also damaged the LCD (half the pixels would not work) and 1 of the tracks on the board between the Arduino and LCD was also damaged.

Took me 2 months to get it figured out and up and running, while i was at it i updated the software to the latest version of ArdBir.

hi djgilmore,

arduino mega substituted. now all works fine. I've made only some tests but i've no issue to report at the moment. in two weeks i'm going to have a brewday and i hope that i will not have troubles

 

[MitchD]

Good to hear you have made some changes and now i'm on a computer and not a phone I can elaborate on my ramblings I posted before.

Now you have changed the boil set point to 99 I would do a "dry run" with your full boil volume for 3 reasons:

1. Check what temperature your water boils at, in Canberra at ~700m above sea level mine boils at 97.5c. If i had it set to 98 or 99 the controller would throw full power at it, however once water is boiling it wont increase in temperature therefore the timer will never start.
You can find this in manual mode by bumping the temperature up a few degrees at a time until it is boiling and the temp sits stable but under your set point. This is your boil set point.
A low setpoint will start the timer but you will only have a gentle simmer, too high and your timer wont start.

2. When you have it at boil you can adjust the PWM% to set how vigorous the boil will be. More % more boil, less % less boil and potentially it will slip under your set point. For a 5500w element i am using 75%

3. With the full boil volume run a 60 minute boil at your temperature setpoint and PWM% and record your boil off. If you stick with a PWM% your boil off will be stable from batch to batch. I boil off 5.5l per hour regardless of it is 10l or 30l.