The Brauduino (Matho’s Controller) Build/Advice/Question Thread

[claypot]

You no doubt got yours well and truly sorted long ago, but for other people in the future the controller and pre made sensors that come with the lael's kit are wired with the Center Pin VCC & the Middle is DQ. So GND stays the same and the other two are switched around.

Sweet thanks for posting that, I should of followed up for others, I ended up using a multimeter, set for resistance testing and tracked them back to find out. Should of corrected my original post diagram, thanks again.

 

[zwitter]

The ones supplied by Lael in the kit have an extra resistor in the positive. My suggestion. It stopped them from being blown up when plugging in when it was turned on.

Zwitter
James

 

[bungelbear]

Hi all, i am wondering if there is still someone on this thread that can help me with a question i have about my Brauduino.
i am changing my system to a BIAB setup and am doing away with my pump. what i want to do is run my 2 elements off the 2 SSR's and i want to use the existing buttons on the front board. so i wired up the pump button similar to the heat button (positive out of green block to positive on SSR. 3+ and minus out if green block to minus on SSR. 4-)
I also wired an inline fuse into the positive as an added measure to protect the 5A onboard relay. I powered it up and pushed the button. i got the click from the relay but the light did not come on, on the SSR. What is in the circuitry that is stopping a signal being pushed to the 12V side of the relay? Is it completely different to the heat circuit because of the relay and snubber circuit? Can i not use it at all, so therefore install a new switch. Cheers for any help

 

[LiquidCurrency]

Hi All,

Chasing a couple of Lowara pumps. Can get them from a brew shop for $190ea.
Just wondering if anyone knows where I can get two at a better price?

 

[zwitter]

Hi all, i am wondering if there is still someone on this thread that can help me with a question i have about my Brauduino.
i am changing my system to a BIAB setup and am doing away with my pump. what i want to do is run my 2 elements off the 2 SSR's and i want to use the existing buttons on the front board. so i wired up the pump button similar to the heat button (positive out of green block to positive on SSR. 3+ and minus out if green block to minus on SSR. 4-)
I also wired an inline fuse into the positive as an added measure to protect the 5A onboard relay. I powered it up and pushed the button. i got the click from the relay but the light did not come on, on the SSR. What is in the circuitry that is stopping a signal being pushed to the 12V side of the relay? Is it completely different to the heat circuit because of the relay and snubber circuit? Can i not use it at all, so therefore install a new switch. Cheers for any help
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Hi Bunglebear

Do you want to drive the elements separately?

Are you going to just use manual mode?

You can use the output switch of the pump to drive the SSR. If you do you need to remove the 240v if you had a 240v pump. If you had a 12v pump then you can use the pump output to drive the SSR. You will need to get the polarity correct.

An alternative is to use the transistor that drives the relay to drive the SSR directly but it would require some delicate soldering.

Let me know?
PM me if you like.

James
Zwitter

 

[zwitter]

Hi Bunglebear

A few thins i will point out.
The fuse is not 240 safe.
Having the SSRs with output so close to input is a poor way to locate them. I would suggest having both inputs in the middle and the outputs at either end.

The brown wire colour should be reserved for Active 240
The blue colour wire should be reserved for Neutral 240

The wire on the input side of the SSR can be quite small and is signal only very little current.

I like the earthing of the SSR frame.

James
Zwitter

 

[buckerooni]

has anyone got some of the power sockets I can buy? I'd take 1 but would have 2 if you've got them.
I can find them on ebay ( https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CNLINKO...of-IP67-Compatible-w-Neutrik-M24/122544821030 ) , but to get one posted quickly it's gonna cost me $20 extra $40 for one plug would be something I'd like to avoid! thanks!

 

[Meddo]

Does anyone have a spare shield from Lael's kit that they would be happy to sell on?

 

[ken_gilchrist]

Good evening everyone, it's been a long time between posts for me. Is everyone still using their Matho controller?

 

[marc280]

Yep, I'm still happily using mine. Have quite a few brews on it now. While things like auot recipe upload on the Grain father would be nice, the controller from Lael's kit does everything I need.

 

[Meddo]

Does anyone have a spare shield from Lael's kit that they would be happy to sell on?

Bump, still looking for a shield from @lael's/@zwitter's kit.

 

[northernbrewer]

Hey Meddo,

I still have an unbuilt one that I never needed. I built an original but bought the upgraded one with the intention of upgrading and never did. Are you just after the shield or the full kit. Flick me a message and we can arrange something

Cheers

 

[Meddo]

Hey Meddo,

I still have an unbuilt one that I never needed. I built an original but bought the upgraded one with the intention of upgrading and never did. Are you just after the shield or the full kit. Flick me a message and we can arrange something

Cheers

Thanks mate, will PM in the morning

 

[marksy]

Bump, still looking for a shield from @lael's/@zwitter's kit.

I got two kits, but haven't used either of them. ( Lost interest in brewing for awhile). But happy to move the second one?

 

[ken_gilchrist]

G'day everyone,
I'm looking for some tech advice on my Matho's controller. When I'm preparing for a brew I set my parameters and automation steps, fill my strike water and begin the process. For some reason the controller thinks that the water is already at temp (say 63 deg for example) and begins beeping, even when the display shows 20 deg. It doest affect any part of the process other than the annoying beeping for 30 mins or so.

What could be the cause of this?

 

[bigmacthepunker]

Good evening everyone, it's been a long time between posts for me. Is everyone still using their Matho controller?

Hasn't missed a beat in 5 years and 47 brews.

 

[Nullnvoid]

Does anyone use theirs on a 3V? I have recently set one up that I bought second hand a year or so ago and currently just using it to heat water in the HLT, but I guess the ultimate aim would be to use it on the whole system.

Would just be a matter of moving the temp probe and element plugs?

 

[Kingy]

Does anyone use theirs on a 3V? I have recently set one up that I bought second hand a year or so ago and currently just using it to heat water in the HLT, but I guess the ultimate aim would be to use it on the whole system.

Would just be a matter of moving the temp probe and element plugs?

I use mine with my herms setup. Good for step mashing and/or ramping. And pump control while sparging etc.

 

[Nullnvoid]

Awesome, and it works ok with the Herms? That's what I will be using it for.

And how do you go with the different vessels. Just plug into each vessel as needed?

 

[Kingy]

I use a seperate controller (stc1000)for my hlt and the braudino is used to control the hex.
I like to set the timer on the controller to heat the mash water up ready for when I wake up.
Add the grain then the controller goes through the automatic process.
Step mash and or ramp to mash out and hold it there until I'm ready to sparge.