't' Termimesh Manifold

[Justin]

I use a roll of termimesh not unlike yours pumpy (see photos in my gallery-Justins Brewery), but mines is just a staight tube-no T's and it has only ever once given me a slow sparge (not really stuck) evey other time it has worked flawlessly. When it stuck I put that ones down to the fact I wasn't really paying attention and was rushing cause I was watching the world cup rugby and drinking plenty of beers and I think I compacted it by opening flat out by mistake at the start -hell Australia scored right at that moment.

I fly sparge with mine and get efficiencies in the 85% range commonly. Flow has been excellent, run off clears very quickly then runs super clear. I can't fault it. On your design I can't see why it wouldn't work either though. Did you have some kind of air lock in your tap? Seems very strange. A false bottom/manifold doesn't need to be some mystical scientific device-nearly anything should work.

Good luck with whatever you go for.

Cheers, Justin

 

[Pumpy]

Kungy I was pretty happy with the grain crush the husks were nice and whole not chopped up .
Your right about starting the run off slowly in my excitement to do that with the new manifold I did not do that yet I did with with the copper manifold you have a point there .
Murray I have heard that stainless scourer works well somewhere else but did not know how to apply it have you a picture ?
Pumpy

 

[Pumpy]

Batz I nearly got one of them but I thougt it would be difficult to clean but many people swear by them .

Justin I may go for the straight manifold perhaps I was getting too clever .
again slow opening the run off is important ,You have an electric tun to control your temp I think ,Fly sparging looks a bit complicated is it worth a try ?

Pumpy

 

[Pumpy]

Kungy I was reading in the other forum that the 0.9 grain crush may have been too fine but should be 1.3mm is better is was my first grain crush so now I am wondering !!!!!
I thought so long as the husts were reasonably whole it shoud drain OK
I must add that after a lot of stuffing around with changing the manifolds it drained perfectly so I am still at a loss.
I changed too many things ,grain crush, manifold ,recipe wont make the same mistake again . Pumpy

 

[kungy]

As you said, grain crush is one of many variables that could have caused the problem. For some people what determines how fine the crush should be is the type of manifold. I have read particualarly in america that people with SS braiding crush the grain very fine without many problems (excluding wheat beers of course). Try sticking the norm for most people in terms of crush size, then try modifying your process until it works then decrease the size of the crush.

Out of interest why do you particularly want to use termimesh for your manifold, if your pipe manifold works?


Cheers

Will

 

[Pumpy]

Kungy That is a good question I think it is a bit of 'the neigbours grass is always greener' , I think I am looking for better results when I may already get pretty good results with the copper manifold .

Pumpy

 

[dicko]

When recirculating the wort and sparging the mash, I think you will find that the grain bed forms the filter and not the manifold/braid etc.
The crush of the grain is important for flow, and if the husks are pulverised with a poor crush which is too fine then you will have problems with a slow or stuck flow.
A manifold with the slots in the bottom of the pipe will give you more wort from your mash than a s/steel braid and IMO, this is the only advantage with a manifold over the braid or bazooka system.
If you have both systems as I think Pumpy has, then fit each manifold/ braid up and put some water in the tun, open the tap and observe how each system works.
The same thing applies to a false bottom, if the crush has pulverised the husks then you will have a slower run off or at worst, a stuck or cloudy sparge.
Other adjuncts may also cause this; EG wheat, oatmeal etc.
I hope this may help you fellas with the decisions on your manifold systems!
Cheers

 

[chiller]

Yesterday I replaced my false bottom with a stainless steel scrubbing brush. Given that I was batch sparging, it did an absolutely fantatsic job. Quick, easy and cheap. If anyone wants a false bottom to suit a 20L rubbermaid, you can have it

Murray you are a brewing genius ......... mind you I suggested this to some one a while back

The reason it works so well is you are only removing liquid that is already at an even specific gravity.

On the happy hooker type braid/termi mesh, the secret with them is to start the flow slowly to get liquid inside the mesh and liquid outside the mesh at the same or similar transfer rates.

The one I use occassionaly, gives the impression of a stuck sparge if you open the tap too quickly. Open it slowly and then increase the flow.

If you are recirculating wort, attach a length of hose so that instead of turning the tap on and off you can raise the hose higher than the liquid in the tun as you empty the jug with the recirculated running -- then lower the hose and the wort continues to flow. Doing this eliminates or at least reduces sudden pressure changes in the grain bed.

Steve

 

[AndrewQLD]

I have a stainless steel mesh false bottom in the bottom of my keg/mash tun, the outlet is in the centre of the bottom, and drains from the bottom.
I don't have any wort left in the mash tun after the sparge, so for me there is no wastage.

I crush my grains very finely and since going over to the false bottom my eff has increased, and even a heffe weizen with 70% wheat did not slow down the sparge.

regards
Andrew

 

[Pumpy]

Thanks Dicko ,

"the secret with them is to start the flow slowly to get liquid inside the mesh and liquid outside the mesh at the same or similar transfer rates."

& Chiller

"The one I use occassionaly, gives the impression of a stuck sparge if you open the tap too quickly. Open it slowly and then increase the flow."

AndrewQLD would you be able to post a pic of your setup please Pumpy

 

[AndrewQLD]

Here you go Pumpy
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/gall...ryinprogress&s=

 

[Justin]

Sweet brewery Andrew. Very similar to how I reckon I'll go. Nice anyway.

JD

 

[dreamboat]

Nice idea on the tube from the mash Chiller..... will definately give that a go.



dreamboat

 

[Pumpy]

Andrew QLD like your set up
With your SS mesh false bottom what is the double strip of mesh over the center ???

Pumpy