Stone & Wood Pacific Ale

[stompnground]

A bit off topic as this thread is about a particular beer brand, but..... pity that John Palmer has (like many other beer writers) failed to keep up with latest practices. The chill haze thing is one example.

Since the advent of No-chill in cubes which has only been around for about five or six years as a popular method it's pretty obvious that Palmer's dire warnings about slow chilling don't really hold up.
Of course, depending on malts and adjuncts there's always the risk of chill haze in any brew, but no chill ain't one of them, in my experience.

thats one might fine looking brew!

 

[slcmorro]

Second the motion to keep dry hops short. 24 hours will extract the oils almost as well as a week will, but without so much grass. If you do dry hop, maybe try a moderate amount firsr

I've done my version of it three times now (fermenting the 4th as we speak) and they all varied from 5-8 days with precisely 60gms as a dry hop addition each time and I don't get the grassiness. The only thing that might change it is I usually cc for 3 days at -1c before I keg it.

 

[Matplat]

Hey Matt, should I add a bit more yeast into the FV to make sure it gets the job done? I have just done 2 more batches with no mistakes! lesson learned

I wouldn't worry about that just yet, not for 500g extra, wait and see if you get a stall...

That's just me though, would seem excessive and expensive to pitch another sachet. Yeasties will just have a bit more growing to do!

Someone more experienced than me may have a different opinion though.

 

[yankinoz]

A bit off topic as this thread is about a particular beer brand, but..... pity that John Palmer has (like many other beer writers) failed to keep up with latest practices. The chill haze thing is one example.

Since the advent of No-chill in cubes which has only been around for about five or six years as a popular method it's pretty obvious that Palmer's dire warnings about slow chilling don't really hold up.
Of course, depending on malts and adjuncts there's always the risk of chill haze in any brew, but no chill ain't one of them, in my experience.

I agree, Palmer's wrong on chill haze, and a wort chiller is low on my wish list, but for all those brewers out there chilling, I hasten to add that for some purposes cubing is one thing, slow chilling in a kettle another.

Palmer also says quick chilling stops formation of DMS and gets the wort out of a high-danger zone for infection. Infection is little concern for cubers if they pour wort above 80 C. into sanitized cubes. Wort slowly cooling in an unsealed kettle is another matter.

Formation of DMS from precursors slows as wort cools and is almost nil below 80 C. If no-chillers have no problem, it could be in part because the transfer cools the wort (even down to 90 substantially reduces DMS formation).

I usually add cold water to get wort fast down to 80, keep a tight lid on the kettle and use an ice bath, without worrying if it takes an hour or two to get to pitching temperature. Overnight I would worry. Few problems with chill haze, none so far with DMS and infection.

One Palmer advice I've always thought strange is that in partial boils he advocates chilling the hot wort and then adding it to water in the fermenter. Adding cold sanitized water first makes more sense.

 

[Matplat]

I usually add cold water to get wort fast down to 80, keep a tight lid on the kettle and use an ice bath, without worrying if it takes an hour or two to get to pitching temperature. Overnight I would worry. Few problems with chill haze, none so far with DMS and infection.

One Palmer advice I've always thought strange is that in partial boils he advocates chilling the hot wort and then adding it to water in the fermenter. Adding cold sanitized water first makes more sense.

I have wondered about doing this, but thought that it had not been advised as you would essentially be oxidising the wort at that temp. Even if you siphon into the wort you are introducing oxygenated water which could potentially oxidise the wort. If you poured it in you would straight out be asking for trouble.

Just my theory....

 

[stompnground]

I have just bottled 3 variations PA and they all smell and taste spot on but they all have chill haze... (it took them about 3 hours each to cool down to pitching temp.) Not too worried about this batch as PA is hazy too, but for future brews it would be nice to produce some clear beer. I don't have a chiller and i have limited water supply to run it anyway.
Any suggestions of what i can do in the future?
Also what amount of Dex would you recommend to prime a 700ml bottle? thanks for all your help,
Richie

 

[sponge]

Have you tried using gelatine after fermentation has finished? I mainly add in the keg though, but can also be done after fermentation and have done this a few times with good success. It does wonders improving the clarity of a beer.

 

[stompnground]

Have you tried using gelatine after fermentation has finished? I mainly add in the keg though, but can also be done after fermentation and have done this a few times with good success. It does wonders improving the clarity of a beer.

I used Isinglass one one batch but it didn't really do anything. I will have to give gelatine a go next. thanks for the tip Sponge

 

[btrots87]

If you're having problems with chill haze I really recommend using polyclar vt during cold crashing, and whirlfloc tablets during the boil. Worked great for me. Plenty of good info on here about how to use them.

If you don't have a wort chiller then just put the pot into a tub of ice water after the boil, should cool it down pretty quick.

 

[Arch82]

I was in fine form yesterday, i hadn't brewed in ages and decided last minute to have a crack at a S&W pacific ale style...

Brew shop only had Galaxy in 12g finishing bags....so i bought all 6.

By the time i got started I'd had a few beers and managed to stuff up my hops schedule and slightly overfilled the fermentor...ended up with the following...

Batch Size: 25.00 L
Estimated OG: 1.040 SG
Estimated Color: 4.6 EBC
Estimated IBU: 18.3 IBU

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
1.50 kg Coopers Liquid Light Extract
1.50 kg Coopers Liquid Wheat Malt Extract
200 gm Dextrose
12.00 gm Galaxy [14.50 %] (35 min) Hops
12.00 gm Galaxy [14.50 %] (10 min) Hops
24.00 gm Galaxy [14.50 %] (5 min) Hops

To top it all off, i thought i had a packet of US05 in the freezer at home, put the beer down and couldn't find it. I'll duck out tomorrow morning and grab some.

Beer is currently sitting at 18.5* in my temp controlled fermentation fridge.

Any thoughts on how the above will turn out in regards to IBU and pashionfruit flavour? It doesn't taste or smell remotely fruity at the moment...

Will be dry hopping 12g on the 7th day and 12g on the 8th day.

Regards,

Mr Organised

 

[slcmorro]

Just dry hop 24gm on either day. No point waiting 24 hrs to add another bit, you're just increasing the chance for infection without any discernable gain.

 

[Arch82]

Just dry hop 24gm on either day. No point waiting 24 hrs to add another bit, you're just increasing the chance for infection without any discernable gain.

Will do mate, cheers for the reply.

What IBU figure do you get with the above schedule? What do you use to calculate it?

 

[slcmorro]

I use Beermate. It's free and works well for me. I'll plug your figures in when I'm at home for you and let you know.

 

[slcmorro]

Brewmate*

 

[slcmorro]

Assuming you chill, having plugged your recipe into BrewMate -

4.03% @ 27 IBU - 25L

Looks like a good recipe to me mate. Best of luck.

 

[chrisluki]

Hey guys

Just saw this thread pop up and just bychance i also had a crack at a Pacific Ale style beer this weekend...its bubbling away as we speak!

My Recipe:
4.00 kg Pale Malt
800.0 g Wheat Malt
5.0 g Galaxy [14.5%] - Boil 30 min
10.0 g Galaxy [14.5%] - Boil 15 min
40.0 g Galaxy [14.5%] – Flameout
1 pkgs Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05)
40.0 g Galaxy [14.0%] - Dry Hop 6 days

Hit my Post Boil Gravity right on the head at 1.049, which should have me come in at 4.7% if it all goes to plan!

I am hoping for something that is nice and sessionable...

Cheers

Chris

 

[slcmorro]

All these late bittering additions of Galaxy has me wanting to say...

Don't fear using it at 60 for bittering. There's a few out there who have shirked it and said it gives a harsh bitterness, but in my experience it doesn't/hasn't. In fact, we were drinking one of my 4 goes at this brew just over a month after brewing - no specific harshness perceptible.

 

[Arch82]

Assuming you chill, having plugged your recipe into BrewMate -

4.03% @ 27 IBU - 25L

Looks like a good recipe to me mate. Best of luck.

Thanks for looking into that for me mate.

I use Ian's spreadsheet and really like it but I've never understood why the style of beer you choose completely changes the estimated IBU...

I know the average IBU of your selected style is apart of the formula and that's why the IBU changes but I don't understand why...

I thought the only variables that affect IBU is amount of hops, AA%, boil time, gravity of boil and boil volume?

I don't want to brew a "style" anyway, I want to brew the above and know exactly what the IBU actually is and adjust to taste on the next brew.

I'll definitely check out brewmate, cheers again.

 

[Arch82]

Thanks for looking into that for me mate.

I use Ian's spreadsheet and really like it but I've never understood why the style of beer you choose completely changes the estimated IBU...

I know the average IBU of your selected style is apart of the formula and that's why the IBU changes but I don't understand why...

I thought the only variables that affect IBU is amount of hops, AA%, boil time, gravity of boil and boil volume?

I don't want to brew a "style" anyway, I want to brew the above and know exactly what the IBU actually is and adjust to taste on the next brew.

I'll definitely check out brewmate, cheers again.

I should re-word what i said above, it's not Ian's spreadsheet..... It's the following that makes zero sense to me: "Garetz' "Hop Concentration Factor" formula uses the "Desired IBU" in its calculations"

Surely the estimated IBU difference between a 4L and 10L boil can be calculated from the amount of hops, AA%, boil time, gravity of boil and boil volume..

Your "desired IBU" means nothing in the real world, does it?

 

[Arch82]

Does this recipe usually smell like passion fruit during fermentation before dry hopping??

I think I might have my first ever infection...this brew smells and tastes slightly rotten with no fruit flavour or taste...