Starting an Electric Brew control panel for AG brewing

[sjp770]

Matching other panels I've seen, but putting a layer of paint should help insulate the panel a bit.

 

[sjp770]

Reclaiming some wire for the panel. Got a quote for some panel mount sockets and a 25A GPO. Might order the heatsink later

 

[Crouch]

Ahhh I see. My panel came with 1cm thick plastic 'o-rings' to put over the panel mounting bolts.

 

[sjp770]

So did mine, but how can you be 100% sure the base board (give me the right name for it or I'll keep guessing) isn't touching the posts?

Its more for looks and the little bit of protection I guess? I could probably easily skip it.

 

[sjp770]

Aliexpress finally came through!

 

[sjp770]

Not from one of your links ... I used your link to by the proper relay! I grabbed some on ebay but didnt read the description properly and only bought 5A relays!!

They are amongst the last things I need for my CP ... all my plumbing is (mostly) sorted, still tackling my element housing but its getting there.


Thanks for sharing your experience

Cheers

Looks like there's plenty of electric panels being built lately!
With the relays that you have used, are they a 12v coil as it says on the cover? Do you know if they're available in other voltages?

This is the link to the relays I bought, based off another members direction.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/220VAC-80A-DPDT-Power-Relay-Motor-Control-Screw-Mount/1482936491.html

 

[bazfletch3]

So did mine, but how can you be 100% sure the base board (give me the right name for it or I'll keep guessing) isn't touching the posts?

Its more for looks and the little bit of protection I guess? I could probably easily skip it.

Hang on, I might be misinterpretting you, but are you saying your "base board" is completely isolated from the box itself? This wouldnt be a good thing, you want the "base board" grounded just like the rest of the box.

You may want to isolate the indiviual components that you mount on the board from the board itself; that would make more sense....

Just checking - we dont want any fried brewers out there!



Baz

 

[sjp770]

Good point.I thought Crouch was saying his WAS isolated..

My main reasoning was isolation on the components unless they require an earth post.

So whats the consensus? Should I paint the board or not?

 

[Crouch]

That is what I was saying, however having said that, I have a ground wire running from one bolt to the earthing pin theoretically assisting in ground the ... base board (?). I'll start my own thread and show pictures also ... the little plastic lugs lift the baseboard so that my bolts attaching the components have room for the nuts.

 

[Camo6]

I painted my mounting panel as it was an old piece of steel shelving. All my earths including the door post earth run back to the mounting panel which is secured to the box with star washers (or similar) that cut through the paint to provide a good ground. I made sure of all connections with an ohmmeter.

 

[sjp770]

Better layout on the switches.

I'm going to mount everything inside the panel tonight, then at some stage over the weekend I'll strip back the front panel and try again on the paint job, do you guys really think its important to seal the removable plate before mounting the SSR's?

I just bought this:

1x http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221493177697 $28 AUD shipped

 

[Crouch]

I haven't sealed mine, nor have I added silicon around the back of any of the front panel components ... I don't plan on hosing down my control box so didn't see the need

I bought this heatsink .. pretty sure its not the right one - a) its not black, and b) it has a lower wattage it seems. I'm collecting a good range of spare bits and pieces that's for sure!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/400717477289?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

[sjp770]

As for its not black: its only looks. I think i copied my heatsink off the other thread here

got it from ebay..

link here http://www.ebay.com/itm/30CM-300x120x20mm-Aluminum-Heat-Sink-25-30pcs-3W-LED-Power-Transistor-/221415466742?pt=US_CPU_Fans_Heatsinks&hash=item338d63e6f6

Cheers
gav

All heatsinks should be way over kill so i wouldnt worry.

I probably wouldn't paint it, maybe a few light spray coats if its ugly?

As for mistakes I bought 2x Aviation style panel connectors rated to 415v 30A but the 10/3 30A flex i bought is too fat for the connectors. $17 down the drain.. I also bought 25A SSR's with heatsinks which will now sit there and look pretty once I get me 40A ones.

I will say i'm really happy I have a few Taps for threading holes. M4 and M5 and I have heaps of stainless M4 screws from another project.

That heatsink will be fine. Its almost the same really.

 

[sjp770]

Making progress. The Ruko 32mm hole punch was JUST big enough for the 5500w camco elements. I need to get a 2.25" hole saw tomorrow to allow the metal box to fit over the back of the element.

I have the ring terminals from repco for $5 today.

 

[sjp770]

Oh, and the ruko hole punch lasted the two element holes and now the thread is no good. I still used it on a thin metal sheet but I'm lucky I didn't need to cut another hole. The other hole punch was a better design as there was no thread on the parts that cut. If the bolt was screwed you could use another.

 

[Crouch]

Got a link for your transformers ... I've found several on ebay and was going to pop into jaycar this weekend (which I will anyway) but would be good to know which ones you choose.

Cheers

 

[sjp770]

Look at the LM317 input rating and shoot higher than your desired output voltage. Note that the LM317 can take either DC or AC in and output DC. I'll be testing them tonight, i'll post the link then.

Getting further with the components. That's everything mounted now.

 

[huez]

I've only skimmed over this thread but saw you mentioned panel mount sockets. I searched long and hard for a twist and lock type power connector and ended up find these. They have a blue one for power in and grey for power out. Have worked out well for my small control box and relatively cheap from these guys

http://www.swamp.net.au/neutrik-nac3fcb-powercon-power-out-power-connector.html

 

[sjp770]

Looks cool but only rated to 20A. The elements draw 22A or so.

I bought these:

which are rated to 25A and 400VAC but after I received them I don't think I'd use them.

I'm not going twist lock, just HPM panel mount sockets. Two 10A normal outlets so you could theoretically use anything in the pump outlet, and you don't need to re cable your pump.

 

[huez]

Ahhhh i skimmed to quickly apparently haha, now i see the 5500w elements! Looking good though!