Spunding Valve

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Anyone serve from the fermenting keg? Surely after a couple of pints their should be no issues with yeast trub in your glass after that. I’m not keen on getting a little yeast in my beers every session though.
 
I transfer from the kegmenter to a corny.

I've attached a Fermentasaurus float from Keg King in place of the dip tube so it draws from the top.

Might be something you could use so you'd be getting the clearest pour.
 
I guess you could fill the second keg like a big growler, then purge it with co2. Not the best method though. Same rules would apply for minimising foam, chill everything first, transfer slowly, etc.

You might go ok serving off the kegmenter though. When chilled the yeast cake tends to set fairly hard, so You mightn't yeasty beers all the time.
 
Anyone serve from the fermenting keg? Surely after a couple of pints their should be no issues with yeast trub in your glass after that. I’m not keen on getting a little yeast in my beers every session though.
I've done this with a weisse and it worked well, but yeast was no issue. I'm keen to try it with an ale.
 
Anyone serve from the fermenting keg? Surely after a couple of pints their should be no issues with yeast trub in your glass after that. I’m not keen on getting a little yeast in my beers every session though.

For sure, but long term sitting on the cake will cause some issues I recon.

I use 50 ltr kegmenters, and after ferment, carb up , I pressure inject biofine through the gas post and rock alittle and cold crash . My beers are clean and clear out of the kegmenter 4 days later and get real good about 1 week onwards.
My dip tube is shortened 20 mm so not to grab too much crap from the bottom. First glass or 2 do suck up abit of yeast but still good. 1 week onwards it's great.
I generally consume my beers out of the kegmenters when busy with work etc for upto 3 - 4 weeks till I have time to pressure transfer into my cornies and mini kegs for longer term storage and using in my keezer.
 
Maybe I should just fork out the coin for a Fermentasaurus.
Eagerly awaiting some activity on the spundy pressure valve. Aerated with o2 this morning about 8am so hopefully by the same time tomorrow morning the needle will be off 0 & making it's way to the set 12psi.
 
I'd be more inclined to fork for another keg coupler. What sort of coupler do you need it could send you a D type of you have those kegs
 
I'd be more inclined to fork for another keg coupler. What sort of coupler do you need it could send you a D type of you have those kegs

I've got the A type kegs.
My Micromatic coupler has a pressure relief valve on it which makes degassing very handy.
I appreciate the offer though, cheers.
 
Around 8am this morning & pressure was heading to my 12psi set point. Had to play around with it a little before settling where I wanted it. The adjustment is pretty touchy but spot on once it’s set right.
IMG_0064.jpg
 
I'm after a little guidance from any of you guys that have a few pressure fermented Lagers under your belt. I'm currently fermenting at 12deg & have the spundy set to 12psi. According to my vol/Co2 chart, this is around 2.15vol/Co2. I am approaching a diacetyl rest & upping the temp to 18deg for that. According to my Co2 chart, if I set the spundy to 28psi at this time, I will end up with 2.46vol/Co2 which is around where I want to be. The question I have is how long to leave the temp at 18deg? I will then remove the valve, leaving the 28psi in there & drop the temp to 1deg for a 7 day cold crash. Remove & transfer under pressure to a receiving keg.
Cheers
 
I have done one lager and it tastes and smells like DMS (creamed corn). Not sure if this is related to my hot side process (to short a boil?), or cold side (pressure?) but its not particularly pleasant. I have tried CO2 scrubbing which helped a little.

Recipe was

5KG Pils
1KG Munich
20g Eldorado FWH
20g Eldorado 5mins
S189

6%
33IBU

I mashed at 64c for 60mins, boiled for 60mins.

Fermented for 3 weeks at 15c @20PSI. Kegged and stored in fridge for 3 weeks.

Would a 90 min biol have stopped this? If you look paste the DMS flavour and aroma there is a tasty beer hiding in there.
 
I have done one lager and it tastes and smells like DMS (creamed corn). Not sure if this is related to my hot side process (to short a boil?), or cold side (pressure?) but its not particularly pleasant. I have tried CO2 scrubbing which helped a little.

Recipe was

5KG Pils
1KG Munich
20g Eldorado FWH
20g Eldorado 5mins
S189

6%
33IBU

I mashed at 64c for 60mins, boiled for 60mins.

Fermented for 3 weeks at 15c @20PSI. Kegged and stored in fridge for 3 weeks.

Would a 90 min biol have stopped this? If you look paste the DMS flavour and aroma there is a tasty beer hiding in there.
I'd definitely try a 90min boil as your first step.
 
I'm after a little guidance from any of you guys that have a few pressure fermented Lagers under your belt. I'm currently fermenting at 12deg & have the spundy set to 12psi. According to my vol/Co2 chart, this is around 2.15vol/Co2. I am approaching a diacetyl rest & upping the temp to 18deg for that. According to my Co2 chart, if I set the spundy to 28psi at this time, I will end up with 2.46vol/Co2 which is around where I want to be. The question I have is how long to leave the temp at 18deg? I will then remove the valve, leaving the 28psi in there & drop the temp to 1deg for a 7 day cold crash. Remove & transfer under pressure to a receiving keg.
Cheers

I left mine for 2 days . But I'm gradually lowering temp to let clean up on the way down . More the fact I'm away for work and I am getting the wife to adjust for me . Following roughly @labels technique for lagers
 
I'd definitely try a 90min boil as your first step.

Cheers, this is what I was thinking/hoping

I was concerned it might be the slightly elevated temps but that would more likely lead to esters (fruity) than DMS (Vegetably). I am 95% sure its the latter. I was hoping the pressure would help reduce ester production.

So with a longer boil, do people add water back to the wort post boil? If I boil for 90misn I don't think I'll hit my volumes.
 
Cheers, this is what I was thinking/hoping

I was concerned it might be the slightly elevated temps but that would more likely lead to esters (fruity) than DMS (Vegetably). I am 95% sure its the latter. I was hoping the pressure would help reduce ester production.

So with a longer boil, do people add water back to the wort post boil? If I boil for 90misn I don't think I'll hit my volumes.
I use Beersmith and it adjusts volumes automatically if I up the boil length, your tool may do the same
 
I'm after a little guidance from any of you guys that have a few pressure fermented Lagers under your belt. I'm currently fermenting at 12deg & have the spundy set to 12psi. According to my vol/Co2 chart, this is around 2.15vol/Co2. I am approaching a diacetyl rest & upping the temp to 18deg for that. According to my Co2 chart, if I set the spundy to 28psi at this time, I will end up with 2.46vol/Co2 which is around where I want to be. The question I have is how long to leave the temp at 18deg? I will then remove the valve, leaving the 28psi in there & drop the temp to 1deg for a 7 day cold crash. Remove & transfer under pressure to a receiving keg.
Cheers
Hey mate,
Did a heap of lagers last summer, bleed off pressure set to approx 12 - 15 psi at 12 - 13 degrees primary lager ferment. Usually after 5 days of active ferment, I purge a small sample with my pluto gun into jug, degas and allow to warm to room temp, take grav reading and usually down to about 1015 or just unde, I then wack my spunding valve off, crank temp to 19 and allow it to creep up over a couple days to finish off as well as the pressure to rise , when at about 26 psi which I find is plenty of carb for my lagers , I bleed off using the relief valve to 23-24 psi and leave it rise up to 26 , do this once a day for next couple of days till it sits at 26 steady, usually about day 10 - 12 now, I then pressure inject finnings or now biofine, then cc straight down and leave for at least one week. Perfect lagers, I usually sample a schooner each night during the week as I can't help myself, and generally pressure transfer over 1 to 2 weeks later into cornies for my keezer.

Others prob have diff ways, but I've done lagers all last summer and this works great for me.

Cheers
 
Exactly the type of info I'm after. I'm also looking at the d-rest when around 1.015 so that's when I'll be cranking up the temp & winding up the pressure on the spundy. At 18deg & 28psi, I should get around 2.5vol/Co2 which suits me just fine. I'll leave it at 28psi for a couple of days then cap the fermenter. Cold crash for 7 days then transfer to a serving keg.
One differential I can't seem to find an answer to is differing pressures everyone's using to primary ferment. Some set the pressure at 5psi, others 8 or 10, me 12 & some 15. I'm not sure what effects this will have on the finished beer but everyone seems to come to the same conclusion with a far superior beer than fermenting the traditional way. I'm really excited about the control you have over your carbonation & a naturally carbed beer is really nice with those tiny effervescent bubbles.
I'm approaching 10yrs of All Grain Brewing & you never stop learning in this hobby. There's always something new to try & something else to buy on our never ending quest for the perfect beer.
I might drop it back to 26psi as per coldspaces recommendation.
 
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In order to get some 'bang for buck', my normal approach to brewing lagers is to throw a second batch onto the yeast cake. I'm reasonably sure it won't be an issue, but figure I may as well ask the question; does pressure fermenting adversely affect a lager yeast cake and the quality of a subsequent lager fermented thereon?

Cheers
 
The research I've seen indicates that yeast health begins to decline up around 30 psi. I don't think you'd see a noticeable effect below that, and if you're only doing those pressures for the D rest, still don't think you'd see any noticeable effect.
 
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