• We have implemented the ability to gift someone a Supporting Membership now! When you access the Upgrade page there is now a 'Gift' button. Once you click that you can enter a username to gift an account Upgrade to. Great way to help support this forum plus give some kudos to anyone who has helped you.

Speidel Braumeister 50 Recipes

Aussie Home Brewer

Help Support Aussie Home Brewer:

caiosa

Member
Joined
17/3/12
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
Hello,

I recently bought a Speidel Braumeister 50L and I used it only 5 times and I'm having problems with efficiency and low beer in fermenter.

I create this topic to share recipes with more experienced brewers that have Braumeister 50L.

Please, friends, if you could please share your recipes and also all procedures I will be very glad.

Regards,

Caio
 

MHB

Well-Known Member
Joined
1/10/05
Messages
5,737
Reaction score
3,146
Location
Newcastle
Without some information on what you actually got its going to be very hard to give you any serious or helpful answers, other than the obvious.
Make sure your malt is evenly but not too finely cracked and of decent quality
Follow the procedure in your owners manual precisely until you get the basics right
Keep it simple; just do some basic 1 grain 1 hop brews until you understand the process.
Hope you get what youre looking for
Mark
 

caiosa

Member
Joined
17/3/12
Messages
5
Reaction score
1
Without some information on what you actually got its going to be very hard to give you any serious or helpful answers, other than the obvious.
Make sure your malt is evenly but not too finely cracked and of decent quality
Follow the procedure in your owners manual precisely until you get the basics right
Keep it simple; just do some basic 1 grain 1 hop brews until you understand the process.
Hope you get what youre looking for
Mark
Mark,

My last beer, I tried an American Pale Ale with estimated OG 1.048 but I could only get 1.041.

I used 60L of water to start and 11Kg of grains (10Kg Pale Malt and 1Kg Cara 20). No sparge.

I did a single 60-min step at 65 degrees and 10min mash out at 78 degrees. My boiling was 70min and before boiling I completed with 3L of water to have 55L pr-boil. I could get 46L in my fermenter.

What modifications do you recommend for me?
 

bignath

"Grains don't grow up to be chips, son"
Joined
3/11/08
Messages
2,611
Reaction score
40
Dont own a BM, but by the read of your post, basic brewing theory suggests you could have boiled longer. If your aiming at 42lt post boil, and getting lower gravity but getting an extra 4lts then all you need to do is boil longer to get rid of the extra water that is diluting your gravity.

or crunch your numbers tighter based on previous brews so you dont need to boil longer in the first place.
 

MHB

Well-Known Member
Joined
1/10/05
Messages
5,737
Reaction score
3,146
Location
Newcastle
Well if I used 11 Kg of decent well cracked malt and I would top up so the end of boil volume was about 55L (the top mark on the central shaft) I would expect the gravity to be close to 1.050-1.054.
Look at both the malt quality and the crush.
I find putting a bit of wood (50mm X 75mm) under the back leg tips the Braumeister far enough forward to get the extra couple of litres you want, without getting trub into your fermenter.
Try mashing in for 10 minutes @50oC for, then 60 minutes @65oC then mash out 10@78oC.
When you lift the malt pipe pour 10-11L ~80oC of water in to the top of the malt pipe, give it until you are nearly at a boil to drain before lifting the malt pipe out.
Mark
 

Malted

Humdinger
Joined
15/5/10
Messages
2,301
Reaction score
115
@ caiosa

I read on another thread that you have a short malt pipe for your 50L unit.
Here is a simple and delicious beer to make.

DrSmurto's Landlord (link to original recipe on this forum http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?autocom=recipedb&code=show&recipe=680) also see the discussion about it for different versions: http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=29871

See post #48 here http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57118&st=40 for a discussion of the short malt pipe in the 50L BM.



Grain bill for short malt pipe in 50L Braumeister (BM):

3.91 kg - 97% Marris Otter (Thomas Fawcett - England).
0.14 (140g) 3% of a nice medium to dark crystal malt (preferably English)

Original Gravity target is 1.043. Final Gravity 1.012. Bitterness approx 30 IBU. ABV 4.0%. Efficiency: 80%. Taste: delicious!

Hops
38.3 g Fuggles (4.5% AA) boiled for 60 minutes
21.2g Goldings, East Kent (5.0% AA) boiled for 20 minutes
30g Styrian Goldings (5.4% AA) thrown in when the boil is finished

If the hops you have or buy are a different Alpha Acid % (x% AA) you will need to put more or less by weight into the brew to keep the same IBU's. This needs to be calculated. These particular varieties are low AA% and don't change too much but the beer could end up too bitter than it should be if you got Fuggles at 10% AA (though not likely).

Put 30L of water in to the Braumeister and turn it on. Do not put the malt pipe in until it tells you to.
Try mashing in at 50oC for a 10 minute rest and then mash at 66oC for 60 minutes, last step at 78oC for 10 minutes. Set the boil for 90 minutes.

Mash with the lid on, boil with the lid off.

When mash is finished:
Lift the malt pipe up and set on the support rail to drain into the BM. Leave the filter plate and filter on top of the grain.
Part boil an electric kettle (stop it before it has boiled) and tip 4 litres of water on top of the malt pipe, filter plate to drain back into the BM. Pour it around so all parts of the grain will get rinsed on the way through.
Start the boil sequence whilst the malt pipe is draining into the BM. You will have a period of time (15-20 minutes perhaps) until it gets up to boiling temperature for the boil phase to start.

Put the lid upside down on a bucket with one of the vents going into the bucket. Sit the malt pipe on top of the lid so that it covers the vent into the bucket. You can tip another 2 litres of hot water over the malt pipe for it to drain into the bucket. Collect the liquid from the bucket to be used for emergency purposes (for instance when it boiled you didn't end up with as much liquid as you thought because it evaporated too much. Maybe you had more trub in the bottom than you were expecting?)

Throw hops into boil at appropriate times.
With only 10 minutes of boil remaining throw half a tablet of Whirlfloc into the boil.

Now it depends on whether you have a plate chiller, an immersion chiller, a no-chill cube or whether you stick the lid on and come back tomorrow.



So you start with 30L in the BM. You pull the grain out. That removes about 4-5L of water. You sparge (or rinse) the grain with 4-5L of hot water to replace the volume that the grain removed by soaking it up. You have 30L before the boil begins. At the end of the 90 minute boil you have about 25-26L of wort. You will lose some of that to the trub and hops in the bottom of the BM - leave that gunk on the bottom in the BM. You will get about 23-24LL into your fermenter. After it has fermented you may lose a couple of litres to the yeast trub in the bottom of the fermenter. Bottled or kegged maybe 19-22L?

A brilliant yeast for this recipe is a liquid yeast: West Yorkshire Ale (Wyeast 1469).

If you want to know about what other grains you could use instead of those or what other yeast you could use, it has been asked before, see the discussion thread I linked to.

Sparging or rinsing sugars from the grains can be very important. If you need to add water to the kettle to bring it up to volume it is best to add it as sparge water. Even if you have that sparge water sitting in a bucket you can choose whether it is needed or not. If you add plain water to the kettle, it won't have contain any sugar. If you add sparge water, depending on the recipe, it may well have sugars, flavours and colours to add to the brew. When you boil the wort, water comes off through evaporation, sugar stays in; the sugar concentration gets stronger as the wort volume decreases. Therefore plain water added to the kettle adds nothing except water to evaporate, sparge water might just give some extra sugar that might mean the difference between ending up near your expected gravity or under it. If you have to add water, it may as well be sparged water. But don't throw 100L at the malt pipe in the bucket, any sugars that might be there would be too diluted and adding 1-2L (of the 100L) to the kettle near the end of the boil may not add anything usefull.

As I said in another thread, brewing software can help you plan all of these sorts of things.
 

claypot

Well-Known Member
Joined
9/5/11
Messages
155
Reaction score
38
Hey Malted.
Have just spent a long time building a 1V brew rig. Now Im there I'm not so sure how to drive it. Cheers for the detailed recipe and instructions.Has cleared a couple of things up for me.
 

DeGarre

Well-Known Member
Joined
17/2/12
Messages
209
Reaction score
63
I get 90+% mash efficiency and I don't pause and stir - instead I mash loooong.
 

mattfos01

Well-Known Member
Joined
7/2/11
Messages
163
Reaction score
16
DeGarre said:
I get 90+% mash efficiency and I don't pause and stir - instead I mash loooong.
90 min or longer?
 

DeGarre

Well-Known Member
Joined
17/2/12
Messages
209
Reaction score
63
Mattfos01 said:
90 min or longer?
Sorry for late answer...I have been using the following this year:

mash in at 55 (about 5 mins)
40 mins at 63
50 mins at 70
15 mins at 77

Braukaiser.com calls it stepped infusion hochkurz.
 

claypot

Well-Known Member
Joined
9/5/11
Messages
155
Reaction score
38
Cheers for the feed back,
The main reasons I went with 1V was to cut down the brew time and cleaning, and to keep it simple.
To be honest I didn't realise that this still involved sparging. My mash efficiency was extra crap, high 50's however was the first run with it.
I have a couple of things in mind to increase the efficiency. One is to angle the drain slots in the bottom of the malt pipe to encourage more centrafugal flow into the grain bed.
But in keeping with my reasons for the build I am going to try to get away with out sparging. I think I will just add an extra couple of dollars of grain.
Link to my setup here: http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/57924-braumeister-nextgen-build/page-83#entry1196086
 

Matty3450

Well-Known Member
Joined
21/6/12
Messages
72
Reaction score
20
Sorry to dig up old thread does anyone want to share their mainstay recipes for the 50 ltr. What winners do people consistantly brew? Thanks in advance.
 

gilmoreous

Active Member
Joined
18/8/08
Messages
28
Reaction score
3
I was having the same problems when I got my 50L Brau, new system and all. I started using Beersmith at the same time and I think all these new variables overloaded my brain. I brewed a lot of ordinary beers.
Here is a nice recipe for a Stone and Wood Pacific Ale-like beer.
Mash pH 5.3
Preboil Gravity 1038
Preboil volume 66L
OG 1044 (I used an immersion element to help get up to and create a more vigorous boil)
FG 1012
ABV 4.2%
4.5kg Gladfield American Ale Malt
3.2kg Gladfield Wheat Malt
0.3kg Gladfield Sour Grapes Malt
20gm Galaxy Mash Hop
50gm Galaxy 10mins
50gm Galaxy 5 mins
50gm Galaxy 0 mins
100gm dry hop
2 packets Safale American Ale Yeast
I also tricked up my water a bit but don't worry about that shit until you get everything else happening alright.
I mash in with 60L at 66degC for an hour and sometimes I stir. I raise the temp to 72 degC for a glycol rest. Then I take the malt pipe out and drain it then place it in a bucket where it creates its own seal against the bottom of the bucket (which slows the sparge down) and I sparge with 10L. I add that just before the boil begins.
Ferment at about 18degC. Even though the beer should be cloudy I crash because transfer to the keg is a bastard with clumps of yeast and hops coming through blocking things up. It still ends up cloudy. Should be about 50L going into the fermenter and you will about 5L by the time you keg/bottle.

Try bumping up the amount of grain for your first go around if you are not treating your water or using an immersion element.
 

Latest posts

Top