Skunk Fart Ale

[Slight]

I know this has been asked before, but how can I convert the AG version of this recipe in the recipe db to a partial mash? I don't have the gear to brew a 23l AG.

 

[Trough Lolly]

[snip]
Amount Item Type % or IBU
1.75 kg Light Dry Extract (16 EBC) Dry Extract 47.3 %
0.25 kg Corn Sugar (Dextrose) (0 EBC) Sugar 6.8 %
1.50 kg Coopers Pale Liquid Extract (16 EBC) Extract 40.5 %
0.20 kg TF Caramalt (37 EBC) Grain 5.4 %
22.00 gm Northern Brewer [9.8%] (60 min) Hops 28.0 IBU
15.00 gm Cascade [5.5%] (15 min) Hops 2.9 IBU
15.00 gm Cascade [5.5%] (5 min) Hops 1.8 IBU
15.00 gm Cascade [5.5%] (0 min) Hops -

Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.051 SG Estimated Final Gravity: 1.013 Estimated Color: 15 EBC (20-39 EBC)
Bitterness: 32.7 IBU Estimated Alcohol by Volume: 5.0 %
[snip]
Hope that is what your after.
Jayse

I've got a Coopers Pale Ale kit laying around the cellar so I thought I'd go to school on your excellent SFPA recipe thread, Jayse, and do a SFPA partial mash batch this weekend... I'm a bit limited equipment wise when I do partials, so I'm restricted to a 2kg grain bill and no more than an 11L boil volume...

This is how the SFPA Partial turned out in Promash...
Recipe Specifics
----------------
Batch Size (L): 23.00 Wort Size (L): 11.00
Total Grain (kg): 3.75
Anticipated OG: 1.046 Plato: 11.38
Anticipated EBC: 12.1
Anticipated IBU: 44.2
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80 % (Yes, I do get that in my partials!!)
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Grain/Extract/Sugar
% Amount Name Origin Potential EBC
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
46.7 1.75 kg. Coopers LME - Pale Australia 1.038 8
26.7 1.00 kg. IMC Ale Malt Australia 1.038 4
16.0 0.60 kg. Bairds Munich Malt Great Britain 1.037 13
5.3 0.20 kg. TF Pale Crystal UK 1.034 60
5.3 0.20 kg. Wheat Malt America 1.038 4

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.

Hops
Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
20.00 g. Generic - Kit Hops Whole 8.30 17.6 60 min.
20.00 g. Northern Brewer Pellet 9.00 20.9 60 min.
20.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.30 3.9 15 min.
15.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.30 1.8 1 min.

Yeast
-----
WYeast 1056 Amercan Ale/Chico

I've read with interest how the thread developed a very good starting brew into an excellent pale ale - well done to everyone involved! :super:
The generic hop entry is to allow for the fact that the Coopers Pale Ale kit has around 17-18IBU of bittering in the kit and I always add kits at flameout to preserve the kit's hop flavour and aroma elements - I also found that some of my early part mash pale ales were coming out like IPA's and it was mainly due to forgetting to account for the hopped kit extract when I was making up the recipe in Promash B)
Given the small grain bill for the brew, I'm toying with the idea of dropping the Munich in favour of some Carapils - what do you think of this part mash version of the now famous SFPA?

Cheers,
TL

 

[jayse]

snipped>
Anticipated OG: 1.046
Anticipated IBU: 44.2

[post="58883"][/post]​

You could use a bit of dry malt extract in there to bring the gravity up to 1.052-1.055 for something more like how i do it. That said i make them at 1.045 aswell.
For 1.045 I stick to only 25-30 IBU, so i would use less of the northern brewer at the start.
Even if you do up the gravity to 1.055 I would still keep the IBU down around 35.

Its looking good though just the bitterness ratio is too high.

Custard Pie
Jayse

 

[Trough Lolly]

No probs - thanks for that...I've decided to add some Carapils to the grain bill (its great stuff for good head h34r: IMHO!), steep the pale crystal in a separate pot on the stove, reduce the Munich and add more base ale malt. I also added some dry malt extract to up the starting gravity from 1.046. Here's the revised recipe:

Skunk Fart - Partial Mash

Recipe Specifics
----------------
Batch Size (L): 23.00 Wort Size (L): 11.00
Total Grain (kg): 4.15
Anticipated OG: 1.051 Plato: 12.71
Anticipated EBC: 13.1
Anticipated IBU: 34.4
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80 %
Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Grain/Extract Bill for the partial mash
Amount Name Origin Potential EBC
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.75 kg. Coopers Pale Ale Kit Australia 1.038 8
1.40 kg. IMC Ale Malt Australia 1.038 4
0.20 kg. Weyermann Carapils (Carafoam) Germany 1.037 3
0.20 kg. Bairds Munich Malt Great Britain 1.037 13
0.20 kg. Coopers DME - Amber Australia 1.046 36
0.20 kg. TF Pale Crystal UK 1.034 60
0.20 kg. Wheat Malt America 1.038 4
(2kg of grains mashed in about 6L of 66C water for an hour - TF Crystal steeped in a pot on the stove and the DME is added to the pre-boil wort)

Hops
Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Hops in the kit - 8.30 16.8 60 min.
14.00 g. Northern Brewer Pellet 9.00 14.0 60 min.
16.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.30 2.2 10 min.
12.00 g. Cascade Pellet 6.30 1.4 1 min.

Yeast
-----
WYeast 1056 American Ale in 300ml of warm water

The Amber DME has pushed up the EBC a notch but it's all I've got in the larder
Anyway, I'll crack this lot tonight and brew it up tomorrow night whilst the missus is at work and the kids are asleep.

Cheers,
TL (Night brewer specialist!!)

 

[jayse]

I'll crack this lot tonight and brew it up tomorrow night whilst the missus is at work and the kids are asleep.

Cheers,
TL (Night brewer specialist!!)

[post="59012"][/post]​

Everything Looks good there, from the IBU, gravity, mash temp and finishing hops. Have a fun saturday nite brew.
What IBU calc method do you use? I use rager with pellets at plus 10% utilization in pro mash.

Alien boy thanx for the kind words. Try northbrewer for the start one day, you'll find it hads a whole extra depth to the beer.


In the evening............well early morning actually :excl:
Jayse

 

[Trough Lolly]

Keep us all posted on this TL, some of us are very interested to see how this turns out.

No probs - Its in the fermenter and I'm a bit weary so I'll post a report on the session later today!!

Cheers,
TL

 

[Trough Lolly]

What IBU calc method do you use? I use rager with pellets at plus 10% utilization in pro mash.

Same IBU calc method here Jayse - the fun part is keeping tabs on the A/A% from one hop purchase to the next. I actually thought I had 9% northern brewer pellets but that was a previous batch - the current ones are only 7.4% (Yakima) so I upped the bittering from 14g to 20g to compensate.

It's now 12 hours old and fermenting like a steam train! Good creamy coloured krausen and a busy airlock. I used a couple of 1056 stubby starters and poured their slurry into 500ml of warm water (after tasting the unhopped beer in each stubby to check for autolysis) that also had a sachet of S-04 dry yeast hydrating in it to make sure I had a good viable starter! I like both yeasts so the two together should make for an interesting ale - the attenuation of the 1056 coupled with the S-04 english ale yeast...

How pale is this ale, Jayse? The mash was really pale, almost wit like, but the TF pale crystal definately added some colour - I wonder how a light Caramunich would go in lieu of the pommy crystal? I used IMC pale ale malt and it's meant to be only 4EBC. The English Bairds Munich I used was rated at 13 EBC. Promash estimates the brew at 13.2 EBC...

For some reason I got crap efficiency - the SG was only 1.045 and I only managed to get 22L not 23L in the fermenter which is a godawful 54%... I used my standard part mash technique that has consistently achieved just over 80% in my previous partial mash brews according to Promash - the only thing I can think of is the wheat - I had never used it before and I bought it really cheap (hmmmm...) from a HBS in Ballarat and although its only 500g, it looks suspiciously like cracked UNMALTED wheat grains and not malted wheat??? That would account for about 2 points of gravity lost - the rest could be due to a crap sparge during the third pint of stout, I dunno... :unsure:

Alien Boy - In case you're interested, here's a brief rundown on the session...

Night before - Whipped out the trusty Marga Mulino and cracked the grains;

Brew Night - Sent the missus off to work, backslammed the kids into bed and got to work!!!
Doughed in the grains (minus the crystal). Dough in was 72C of about 4L of water and added about another litre or so whilst doughing in to achieve a full 6-pack esky of grains and water! So, I used 2.5L per kilo of grains and the mash temp was 66C. Mashed for an hour. In that time, I cleaned the fermenter and steeped the grain bag of Thomas Fawcett crystal in a litre or two of cold water in the kettle, slowly warming to about 70C...

Part mash brewing means I leave the keg kettle, CFWC and 10 Gal Rubbermaid in the cellar, roll up the sleeves, pour a pint (or two!! ) of dry Irish stout and have fun! I use a 15L stock pot and sit a large colander over it. I grab the wife's soup ladle and scoop the mash into the colander and drizzle 70C sparge water over each colander full of grains to rinse. Repeat until esky is empty. I get about 12L of sweet liquor and fire up the wok burner to bring it all to the boil. I added the DME during the heating up and the rest is easy - bring to boil, add bittering, flavour and aroma hops over the one hour boil. Pour in the pale ale kit at flameout and gently stir mix in well to blend the kit and keep the aroma and flavour notes of the hopped extract - it doesn't need boiling, Coopers already did that B).

Chill in an ice bath in the kitchen sink, and when cool, splash pour through the cleaned colander into the fermenter to aerate. Top up with cold water, pitch yeast and yibbida yibbida, that's all folks!
Cheers,
TL

Edit addon: I plan to ferment in primary for 7 days and rack to secondary for at least two weeks - by that time, my kegs should have arrived from the US Any tips on ideal gassing volumes for this brew in the keg Jayse?

 

[Trough Lolly]

AB,
No probs mate - that's the bonus of being on a brewer friendly forum!! Will update when I have a swig, but it's lookin' damn fine in the fermenter already!!
Cheers,
TL

 

[Jovial_Monk]

TF don't make a light crystal, unless you are talking about their caramalt? that is quite light and shouldn't add a lot of color

Jovial Monk

 

[Gulf Brewery]

JM

According their site, TF do make a light crystal.

Cheers
Pedro

 

[Borret]

Can someone please explain to me why you would put your liquid yeast slurry in warm water before pitching. Goes against all logic from my perspective. Someone please enlighten me!

Borret

 

[jayse]

the current ones are only 7.4% (Yakima)

[post="59125"][/post]​

I haven't used american NB before, let us all know how they compare.

How pale is this ale, Jayse? The mash was really pale, almost wit like, but the TF pale crystal definately added some colour - I wonder how a light Caramunich would go in lieu of the pommy crystal? I used IMC pale ale malt and it's meant to be only 4EBC. The English Bairds Munich I used was rated at 13 EBC. Promash estimates the brew at 13.2 EBC...

[post="59125"][/post]​

The colour iam going for is pretty much close to LCPA, side by side mine are ussually a tad darker but the aim is to stick as close to LCPA colour as possible. I use 120-140 EBC crystal malt, either weyerman caramunich II or TF crystal malt, they are both around the same colour. Can't say i prefer either one over the other.
As for imc pale ale malt, i haven't been able to get that for over two years, Used to get 50kg bags at one stage of it. I thought it was a great malt.
As for using lighter coloured crystal malts no probs there either. 120-140 ebc seems to be pretty much the standard for american or english ple ales though, that doesn't mean you can't make even better versions with a lighter crystal malt though.

For some reason I got crap efficiency - the SG was only 1.045 and I only managed to get 22L not 23L in the fermenter which is a godawful 54%... I used my standard part mash technique that has consistently achieved just over 80% in my previous partial mash brews according to Promash - the only thing I can think of is the wheat - I had never used it before and I bought it really cheap (hmmmm...) from a HBS in Ballarat and although its only 500g, it looks suspiciously like cracked UNMALTED wheat grains and not malted wheat??? That would account for about 2 points of gravity lost - the rest could be due to a crap sparge during the third pint of stout, I dunno... :unsure:

[post="59125"][/post]​

sorry to here you didn't get the yeild you were after, as for the wrong wheat, i'd be pretty annoyed if that was the case, iam not all that familiar with raw wheat but at a educated guess i would think it may add some tartness to the beer which shouldn't be there really.
Its a good idea to measure your effiency at the start of the boil that way if need be you can choose to use less hops at the start so the IBU matches up with the lower expected SG.

TF don't make a light crystal, unless you are talking about their caramalt? that is quite light and shouldn't add a lot of color

Jovial Monk

[post="59192"][/post]​

light crystal/caramalt pretty much the same thing in my book.
Agree that at only a couple % of the grist caramalt won't add too much.
The JWM caramalt seems to pack a fair amount of flavour though and I have had that malt end up cloying before.



All the worlds indeed a stage............jeez iam gunna need a big roll of gaffa tape!
Jayse

 

[Trough Lolly]

Can someone please explain to me why you would put your liquid yeast slurry in warm water before pitching. Goes against all logic from my perspective. Someone please enlighten me!

Borret

[post="59195"][/post]​

G'day Borret,
Fear not - I have not performed a pagan ritual that transcends all brewing rules!! h34r:

My starter was 500ml of warm water (under 30C) to which I tossed in the packet of S-04 dry yeast. It rehydrates the dry yeast and gives it a running start by supplying the cells with warm but NOT hot water that hasn't been boiled so it still has oxygen in it. There are a number of articles, both here and in the US, that discuss the pros and cons of how to use stubbied yeast starters. I read an enlightening article that suggests it not bad to toss the slurry straight into the wort (if you're sure that it hasn't gone off, that is!)...

So, rather than risk trashing a perfectly good brew, I decanted all but half an inch of the unhopped liquid out of the stubby starters (and it tasted fine!!) and then poured the stubby slurry into the water and S-04 yeast starter. Sure, it will shock the 1056 yeast into life and since its 8 months old, it may not have many viable cells anyway, but it will help give the viable cells some oxygen and water before pitching into the wort. I did this with some 1028 London Ale yeast slurry in a Guinness clone and it worked a treat!

Cheers,
TL

 

[Trough Lolly]

I haven't used american NB before, let us all know how they compare.

No probs - I've used them in a dunkelweizen and they had a slightly woody note about them, but it was hard to pick it up in amongst all that malt!!

As for imc pale ale malt, i haven't been able to get that for over two years, Used to get 50kg bags at one stage of it. I thought it was a great malt.

Thanks for the info re colour - its looking nice and pale in the fermenter... The IMC pale ale is uncracked, in airtight pails and is 2003 vintage - perhaps it's lost a bit of grunt? It certainly smells nice in the pail and out of the mill...

[snip]Its a good idea to measure your effiency at the start of the boil that way if need be you can choose to use less hops at the start so the IBU matches up with the lower expected SG.

Good point and will do next time...This won't be the last skunk fart PA !!

TF don't make a light crystal, unless you are talking about their caramalt? that is quite light and shouldn't add a lot of color

Jovial Monk

TF Pale Crystal is lovely stuff. As long as you don't use too much of it...

All the worlds indeed a stage............jeez iam gunna need a big roll of gaffa tape!
Jayse

Sorry Jayse, no gerbils were used in the making of this brew

Cheers,
TL

 

[Borret]

Hi TL,

I am aware of rehydrating dried yeast in warm water and do conform to this practice on the odd occasion that I use them. However I would think that if you are going to the trouble of including a liquid yeat strain then why not just use this only and treat it well. Putting liquid yeast into warm water prior to pitching is putting it through a another temperature change not to mention exposing it to oxygen without any other nutrients to accompany it. The use of warm water is only to aid in rehydration of dry yeast because they have vast stores of nutrient reserves built in cope with this 'awakening out of hiberanation process 'and because the sugary nature of wort impedes the ability of the cell wall to absorb the moisture.
I hope it works out for you.
Cheers,
Borret

 

[Trough Lolly]

Hi Borret,
Yep, I see where you're coming from - except the 1056 was an afterthought on the night. I forgot to take some from the fridge the night before, bring up to room temp and make a fresh starter with it, so, in the grand tradition of last minute panic brewing, it got added to the re-hydrated S-04. It's not what I normally do since I prefer to use a single strain for brewing, but I thought I'd try something different - especially after it worked so well on another recent brew...
Cheers,
TL

 

[nonicman]

This is what I'll have a go at today, it's my second attempt, a bit worried about not having enough hops in the boil. Any suggestions welcome.

skunk fart attempt II

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (L): 45.00 Wort Size (L): 45.00
Total Grain (kg): 9.10
Brewhouse Efficiency: 80 %
Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager

Additional Utilization Used For Pellet Hops: 10 %


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential EBC
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
91.2 8.30 kg. JWM Traditional Ale Malt Australia 1.038 7
5.5 0.50 kg. TF Caramalt UK 1.034 38
3.3 0.30 kg. Weyermann Carapils (Carafoam) Germany 1.037 3

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
40.00 g. Amarillo Pellet 8.40 24.4 60 min.
30.00 g. Amarillo Pellet 8.40 4.9 15 min.
30.00 g. Amarillo Whole 8.50 2.8 5 min.
30.00 g. Amarillo Pellet 8.40 3.1 1 min.


Yeast
-----

Wyeast Thames Valley Ale 1275
Mash Schedule
-------------

Mash Type: Single Step

single infusion @ 66C

Whirlfloc in the boil at 10 minutes

Happy brewing.

 

[Jovial_Monk]

Hmmm I made 40L APA (not an attempt at a skunkfart) and used

60 min 100g Amarillo
30 min 70g
15 min 50g
and I think additions at 5 and 0 minutes

Delicious!

Jovial Monk

 

[nonicman]

Thanks JM. I have to go with it as Promash is reporting 35.5 IBU which fits with Jayse's advise. After using EKG and Fuggles for bittering for a while, 40 grams doesn't seem much.

 

[Jovial_Monk]

Ah, I see now what you meant by not enough hops in the boil.

JM