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Here's mine (have made a couple of changes since taking this pic)

More pics here http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...c=30476&hl=

Another thread with various stands here http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum//ind...c=27934&hl=

Cheers

01IMG_8888__Custom_.JPG
 
I dont see too many BIAB rigs here. Kev? Thunnus? Bribe?
Where are you rigs?
 
Here we go - 80L aluminum kettle with a 3-ring burner under it. Sits on three housebricks while the BIAB swiss-voille bag hangs from a roof beam via a piece of truing line, counterbalanced by a sledgehammer. Very la-de-da.

me.jpg


Mostly my garage space is taken up by projects, like this one which is almost finished:

chop1.jpg


Cheers - boingk
 
Here we go - 80L aluminum kettle with a 3-ring burner under it. Sits on three housebricks while the BIAB swiss-voille bag hangs from a roof beam via a piece of truing line, counterbalanced by a sledgehammer. Very la-de-da.

me.jpg


Mostly my garage space is taken up by projects, like this one which is almost finished:

chop1.jpg


Cheers - boingk

Good stuff Boingk, I feel there is a place for this style of brewing.
 
Another lazy 1200 l out today ...

5ibc_Brew_House___FV__s.jpg
 
Another lazy 1200 l out today ...
No milk crates, no kegs, no duct tape, not a hose clamp to be seen and I'll bet there's no march pump pushing that 1200L around <_<
And I can't see a tempmate taped to the side of those shiny things.
 
I'm looking to start a decent brewing system soon. I have a 48L esky, which I am going to convert into a mash tun. I was thinking of making a copper manifold for it, but thought about the effort factor and am considering just buying one of those bazooka screens from grain and grape for 60 bucks. I'd just need some sort of valve and a little bit of hose to connect from the bazooka screen to the valve (a ball valve?)

So in a lot of those three-tier systems, can someone give me a quick run-down of the process? I understand the mash tun drains the wort into the boiler (on the bottom)... whats the one at the top for? Is it just a heater for the water to go into the tun for mashing and sparging?

I want to design a similar sort of setup, but I only want to do 20-25 litre batches, so what advice would you give in terms of what sort of equipment I should look at?

And what are benefits of having those conical SS fermenters as opposed to a cylindrical one?
 
Good stuff Boingk, I feel there is a place for this style of brewing.

Cheers mate! Haven't done an AG in a while, but that photo brings back memories of smells and tastes that were just awesome. Might have to have a crack at another brew sometime. Rough-n-ready, but it gets the job done.

Thanks again - boingk
 
I'm looking to start a decent brewing system soon. I have a 48L esky, which I am going to convert into a mash tun. I was thinking of making a copper manifold for it, but thought about the effort factor and am considering just buying one of those bazooka screens from grain and grape for 60 bucks. I'd just need some sort of valve and a little bit of hose to connect from the bazooka screen to the valve (a ball valve?)

So in a lot of those three-tier systems, can someone give me a quick run-down of the process? I understand the mash tun drains the wort into the boiler (on the bottom)... whats the one at the top for? Is it just a heater for the water to go into the tun for mashing and sparging?

I want to design a similar sort of setup, but I only want to do 20-25 litre batches, so what advice would you give in terms of what sort of equipment I should look at?

And what are benefits of having those conical SS fermenters as opposed to a cylindrical one?

Usually the top is a hot water tank holding all your water for the mash , mashout and sparging this would hold around 30-40 lts for a 23lt batch .Most HBers use 50lt kegs and convert them to HLT and boil kettles .


Cheers
Beerbelly
 
Snapped a pic of mine while I had a brew on the other day just to add to this thread.


Brewery%20V1.3.jpg
 
I'm looking to start a decent brewing system soon. I have a 48L esky, which I am going to convert into a mash tun. I was thinking of making a copper manifold for it, but thought about the effort factor and am considering just buying one of those bazooka screens from grain and grape for 60 bucks. I'd just need some sort of valve and a little bit of hose to connect from the bazooka screen to the valve (a ball valve?)

So in a lot of those three-tier systems, can someone give me a quick run-down of the process? I understand the mash tun drains the wort into the boiler (on the bottom)... whats the one at the top for? Is it just a heater for the water to go into the tun for mashing and sparging?

I want to design a similar sort of setup, but I only want to do 20-25 litre batches, so what advice would you give in terms of what sort of equipment I should look at?

And what are benefits of having those conical SS fermenters as opposed to a cylindrical one?

HLT is on top, used to heat water for mashing and sparging. As mentioned before, you'd want to be able to hold around 40L for a 20L batch. You could get away with a smaller vessel (refill and heat the sparge water during the mash), but a bigger vessel allows for upsizing when you realise you want to brew 40L at a time!

Next is the mash tun, where you want to use the bazooka screen. I can't comment on these as I use a false bottom, but I love the false bottom and have absolutely no issues with it. Whatever you use, you'd want to connect it to a valve of some sort, most people use ball valves. And any tubing within the mash tun must be strong enough and resistant enough to not collapse under pressure. And food grade. Don't limit the mash tun to 20L batches. After a year or so you'll want to brew double batches, and you won't want to be buying new equipment. Look for 10 gallon gatorade coolers, or use a converted keg, legally obtained of course. Either of these should be able to handle double batches.

Finally, the boil kettle. Again converted kegs are options, anything less than 50L kegs will make double batches difficult as you need to end up with 40L wort, and if you factor in evaporation, losses to trub and hops, and headspace required to keep a rolling boil (without boiling over), 50L is about the minimum you can get away with. Even then, I have to add ~10L of cooled boiled water to make up the volume difference. So you'd be better off scoring an 80L keg or buying a 60-80L ally/SS pot for the boil.

Benefit of conical fermenters is that you can rack the yeast off easily after the fermentation is finished. This means that the yeast is harvested in a slightly more sanitary fashion, and primary and secondary fermenting can be done in the one vessel (again, more sanitary and less risk of oxidation). And they are shiny. The down side, they cost a lot and they aren't easy to move around like a fermenter is.
 
HLT is on top, used to heat water for mashing and sparging. As mentioned before, you'd want to be able to hold around 40L for a 20L batch. You could get away with a smaller vessel (refill and heat the sparge water during the mash), but a bigger vessel allows for upsizing when you realise you want to brew 40L at a time!

Next is the mash tun, where you want to use the bazooka screen. I can't comment on these as I use a false bottom, but I love the false bottom and have absolutely no issues with it. Whatever you use, you'd want to connect it to a valve of some sort, most people use ball valves. And any tubing within the mash tun must be strong enough and resistant enough to not collapse under pressure. And food grade. Don't limit the mash tun to 20L batches. After a year or so you'll want to brew double batches, and you won't want to be buying new equipment. Look for 10 gallon gatorade coolers, or use a converted keg, legally obtained of course. Either of these should be able to handle double batches.

Finally, the boil kettle. Again converted kegs are options, anything less than 50L kegs will make double batches difficult as you need to end up with 40L wort, and if you factor in evaporation, losses to trub and hops, and headspace required to keep a rolling boil (without boiling over), 50L is about the minimum you can get away with. Even then, I have to add ~10L of cooled boiled water to make up the volume difference. So you'd be better off scoring an 80L keg or buying a 60-80L ally/SS pot for the boil.

Benefit of conical fermenters is that you can rack the yeast off easily after the fermentation is finished. This means that the yeast is harvested in a slightly more sanitary fashion, and primary and secondary fermenting can be done in the one vessel (again, more sanitary and less risk of oxidation). And they are shiny. The down side, they cost a lot and they aren't easy to move around like a fermenter is.
Thanks... Some really helpful info right there. I have an esky that holds about 48-52 litres so I should be right there. Just need to source a boiler and a hlt. I find it funny that they call it a hot liqour tank when it just contains hot water for mashing or sparging. I'm unemployed right now so I can only afford minimal equipment, but in a year I'd expect to be working full time, dishing out some dough for some bigger and better equipment would be more doable. What sizes would you reccommend as a minimum for doing 20 litre batches?
 
Absolute minimum for doing 20L batches I would guess...

20L HLT (but you'd need to refill and re-heat sparge water during the mash)
25L mash tun (but you already have that sorted)
30L boil kettle (if you want to do full boils. If you're happy to boil at a higher gravity and then water down the wort, you could get away with smaller)
 
BATTERED SAV BREWERY

P2250061.JPG
 
a few pics just after i finished the upgrade, only took about a decade, felt like it anyway .. :p

gravity fed MLT from HLT and pump to Kettle
1.jpg


F1-11
6.jpg


false bottom made from the cut-out from the 18 gallon keggle
tun8.jpg


cheers
 
Hi Sav,

the phot looks like you drain and fill from the same inlet/outlet, is there any issues when filling, does the pump need to worker harder etc..

thanks
Matt

nice rig by the way, have you got some photo's discussion on you herms ?

thanks
Matt
BATTERED SAV BREWERY
 
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