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Rims

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enoch

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Page 27 of 35.
Very pretty.
 

Adam Howard

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I'm looking into one. I'd probably block the thermowell hole in the end and control the element based on the temp of the mash. Seems well put together. Threads for the wort in and out are a little off I think. I tried screwing in a tapered thread male quick disconnect fitting and it didn't go in far at all, over half the thread was exposed. Not really a problem as long as it seals. RIMS seems far more straightforward than HERMS in terms of implementation.
 

davo4772

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Look up "stainless stuff" and check out their RIMS tube. Am very happy with mine
Can't remember exactly how much but was around US$160 delivered.
Included a 2500w screw in element.
Order to front door was just over a week. The fellow was good to deal with as well.
 

A3k

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Look up "stainless stuff" and check out their RIMS tube. Am very happy with mine
Can't remember exactly how much but was around US$160 delivered.
Included a 2500w screw in element.
Order to front door was just over a week. The fellow was good to deal with as well.

Hi David,

I just had a look at the "Stainless Stuff". looks quite good. Is there any way to open it up to clean?
Also, is the element supplied a 120V or 240V element?

I'm looking to go the RIMS way soon.

Cheers,
Alan
 

Thirsty Boy

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I'm looking into one. I'd probably block the thermowell hole in the end and control the element based on the temp of the mash.
in my humble but quite experienced RIMS brewing opinion, that would be a bad idea. In general, in recirculating systems, you need to stop thinking about mash temperature and start thinking about wort temperature. The two wont be the same much of the time.

Mash temperature will always lag a little behind the wort temp as it enters the mash tun or exits the heater - if you drive the heater via the measured temp of the mash, it will cause the system to overshoot.... when you have actually added enough heat to the system, the mash temp will still lag behind a little and if thats what you are measuring, cause the heater to keep adding heat, there will be spare over heated wort still making its way through the grain bed when the mash temp hits setpoint and turns off the heater... reesult equals overshoot.

Measure the wort at its hottest and thats the hottest anything in the system can get - how far and for how long your actual mash temperature lags behind the wort temp, is a function of your wort flowrate and you can calibrate for it pretty easily.

by all means, measure the temperature of your mash - i do too - but control the system by measuring your wort temperature at its hottest or thereabouts.

And think flowrates - in a reciculating system its ALL about flowrates - everything else is easy if you can design a system that allows you to recirculate at a high rate without compacting your mash.
 

davo4772

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Hi David,

I just had a look at the "Stainless Stuff". looks quite good. Is there any way to open it up to clean?
Also, is the element supplied a 120V or 240V element?

I'm looking to go the RIMS way soon.

Cheers,
Alan
Hey Al, It's a 240V element. I did a lot of research prior to going the stainless stuff option.
You have 3 options as far as I know other than buying one off the shelf from Keg King.

1. There is a Tri Clover version from the US, $110 plust postage and element. The element is a 1 inch screw in jobby but in the US format NPS. All the screw in elements here I found are BSP, but I didn't look that hard. If you do find one I would guess it would be expensive.
The tri clover looks much easier to clean as it comes apart completely.

2. Make one up yourself with T pieces, threded pipe etc. Crusty kindly gave me the specs for his. I priced it up and worked out to be more expensive than the stainless stuff option. Plus more mucking about assembling.

3. Stainless stuff option, Cheapest. Comes with a 1 inch 2400w BSP element. As far as cleaning goes I have only used mine twice so have just been rinsing with water but I will run PBW through it next use. Given there is a hole in the top and bottom of the tube there is no problem getting a brush in there either.
One thing i don't like about this tube is the earth lug for the element is exposed on the bottom of the tube. It is not able to be covered by the round junction box I have used to cover the live terminals. At work so I will post a pic when I get home.

Dave
 

punkin

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they do a HERMS as well or thought it looked like it was designed by a dodgey looking fella
There's not a doubt in the world that Manu is pretty dodgy looking :lol: : :D :D

He wouldn't let you down though B)
 

punkin

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If you guys were designing a perfect element and cover, what would it consist of?

Would it be like the Keg king one with all triclover at each end for disassembly?

Tapped at 1" one end in the cap and 20mm the other?

Would it include an element?

Would it include a temp sensor or controller? If so which ones?



How much of a market is there?




MayBeAbleToHelpPunkin
 

davo4772

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pic with enclosure


I exchanged a few emails with Emmanuel while I was on night shift an no matter the time of the day or night he replied within minutes. Not sure where he is. The Paypal billing address is in France, fabrication in Vietnam. Anyway the guy doesn't appear to sleep.

DSC05129.JPG
 

punkin

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pic with enclosure


I exchanged a few emails with Emmanuel while I was on night shift an no matter the time of the day or night he replied within minutes. Not sure where he is. The Paypal billing address is in France, fabrication in Vietnam. Anyway the guy doesn't appear to sleep.


He's in Vietnam.
 

punkin

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I have stainless element enclosures that fit on 2" triclovered elements.
 

punkin

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Here is the cahnce to have it designed exactly the way it should be for the Aussie market guys. I will have these built in polished inside and out stainless if you want them and offer them up at reduced prices as a bulk buy/ preorder.

I need to know what you want.

How long the 2" chamber? 14"?

How big the outlet inlet for wort? !/2" bsp threads?

What do you want on the thermowell end, triclamp, welded end with thread for thermowell?

What size threaded hole in the element end?



How many should i have manufactured?
We are only talking about a time lag of a few weeks from settling on a design to having them here.
 

JaseH

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How many should i have manufactured?
We are only talking about a time lag of a few weeks from settling on a design to having them here.
I would start with a single prototype to gauge fabrication costs, work out any possible issues and so people can see what they are getting, then worry about how many to produce based on interest at that stage.
 

QldKev

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PVC RIMS tube?

The thread on the HERMIT got me thinking. If the PVC can handle the heating for a HERMS there is no reason it should not handle it for RIMS. If you got some 50mm potable water pvc pipe, what would stop you making a RIMS tube from it?

QldKev
 

Maheel

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PVC RIMS tube?

The thread on the HERMIT got me thinking. If the PVC can handle the heating for a HERMS there is no reason it should not handle it for RIMS. If you got some 50mm potable water pvc pipe, what would stop you making a RIMS tube from it?

QldKev

but is the PVC food safe at +60 deg c ? i think that's the issue
 
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