RecipeDB - Little Creatures Bright Ale Clone

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Could i use Galaxy pellets for the bittering hop at the start of the boil (60min) and dry hop with the B-Saaz and Cascade (i don't have enough B-Saaz and Cascade for dry hopping if i don't use the Galaxy)?
Or
The other way around, dry hop with the galaxy pellets?
Or
don't use the Galaxy?

Any help please



Jeddog
 
Im making this one next. :) I just have a couple of questions:

1) I have Czech saaz instead of B saaz. Will this make much of a difference?
2) My saaz aa% is 3.6% and cascade is 7.8%. How much of an ajustment to hop weights should I make, if any?

(this will be my second AG)

Cheers :icon_cheers:
 
Im making this one next. :) I just have a couple of questions:
1) I have Czech saaz instead of B saaz. Will this make much of a difference?

Cheers :icon_cheers:

Hey pal - if you read further up this thread, or do a quick forum/google search you'll see that Czech Aaaz and B Saaz are quite different beasts. You'll probably end up with a very different end product (not necessarily bad) if you use Czech.
 
I made this one recently, two batches in succession. I used too much water for the first batch, and while it's drinkable, Bright Ale it aint. HOWEVER.....just drank the second batch (right amount of water)....and it's bloody great. It would be hard to tell the difference between this and the real deal.

Probably about time I started Smithing (ie. using Beersmith....)
 
Could i use Galaxy pellets for the bittering hop at the start of the boil (60min) and dry hop with the B-Saaz and Cascade (i don't have enough B-Saaz and Cascade for dry hopping if i don't use the Galaxy)?
Or
The other way around, dry hop with the galaxy pellets?
Or
don't use the Galaxy?

Any help please



Jeddog

Hey Jeddog.

I would say use some galaxy to bitter with and save the others to dry hop with.

Another thing to try is adding your bittering hops at 45 min instead of 75 min.

You need a few extra grams of hops but you get more hop character in your brew with this later addition.

Give it a go.

Cheers
 
Got this on my to brew list...after all the hype.

I'm actually going to be using 1272 to ferment this one out with. Should I be fermenting cool or a touch on the warmer side? I am thinking of going a bit warmer to get the fruityness out of it.

Also, with regards to dry hopping...should I cut out the 0 min additions and dry hop with that or dry hop with 0.5 gram per litre of each hop?

Cheers
Phil
 
I say dont dry hop

Dry hopping makes the beer grassy to me.

I say stick with the late addition and change to suit later.

Also..... 1272 will be an awsome yeast for this beer. Mash cool at 64 to 65 and ferment around 19 or 20

Yum Yum
 
I say dont dry hop

Dry hopping makes the beer grassy to me.

I say stick with the late addition and change to suit later.

Also..... 1272 will be an awsome yeast for this beer. Mash cool at 64 to 65 and ferment around 19 or 20

Yum Yum

Thanks mate, will do.

I'll post a pic as soon as its done.

Cheers
Phil
 
mmm have i missed something?
 
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh i see.

Backs away..................... slooooooooowly...................... from butters :p

Phillip.......... im sure you can produce :)
 
Hi all,

I've recently been wondering how flame out additions work for those who cool their wort, particularily for those using plate or counterflow chillers. The way I see it, the hops would only be in contact of a few minutes as they are left behind in the kettle. Is this correct? Is this all that it required for aroma hops or am I missing something?

Also, if using an imersion chiller the hops will be in contact for 20mins or whaterver it takes to cool the wort. Surely this would increase or even deminish the hop aroma???

So what's the go?

Cheers!

Ps. Sorry if this is in the wrong place, but I was wondering these thing specific to this recipe.
 
Good question.

I find with me brew rig with the imersion chiller where flame out additions get shilled fast and sit for half hour or more...... i get a great hop aroma.

With my smaller set up i use to No chill cubes........ i get bugger all hop aroma... no matter how much flame out additions i use.

I have toyed with the idea of getting a plate chiler so would be interested to hear the ideas of those that use them.

cheers
 
Mmmnnn, very tasty and moorish....
Delicious....
I could drink this all day....

(and they bloody well did too!)

These are some of the comments made by my mates who managed to empty my first keg of this great beer yesterday. They couldn't believe how ordinary and bland tasting the typical CUB stuff is after they had been drinking this ale.

Thanks for the recipe Tony.. will now have to brew double quantities of it - so I can keep one keg for myself!!!
 
Hi guys
I just realised that i posted this in the wrong forum. so here it is again


Hi Guys
Im gonna do the lcba ag but have scaled down to 24L
Can someone check my list of what to do? Im trying to be a bit more systematic for this brew
90min boil. 30L preboil 6 lost to evap = 24L postboil = 23 L into fermenter and 1L trub

Preboil volume needed = 30L = +13L (mash) - 4.5 L(grain absorption) + 4L (mash out) - 1L(deadspace in mash tun) + 19.5(sparge water)

1) Mash - 4.67 kg grain with 12L mash @ 65.6C
2) Mashout - with boiling water approx 4L to 78C leave for 10mins
3) Batch Sparge with 19.3L @ 78C
4) 30L for 90min boil. 6L lost to evap
5) Cool with immersion chiller
6) Stir, leave to settle, rack to fermenter and pitch yeast 1056
7) Primary for a 4 days
8) Rack to secondary for a week
9) Filter to keg
10) set reg to 12psi @ 4C in kegerator, leave for 6 days
11) drink!
12) start all over again.


Also, a little off topic. Can I leave my copper immersion chiller in my keggle for the duration of the boil? Its very tight to get it through the opening and thus would be easier to just leave it in there all the time. I have just made the keggle today from a keg I found left out in hard rubbish on my street. I just cut the top out of it.

Cheers
HG
 
Also, a little off topic. Can I leave my copper immersion chiller in my keggle for the duration of the boil? Its very tight to get it through the opening and thus would be easier to just leave it in there all the time. I have just made the keggle today from a keg I found left out in hard rubbish on my street. I just cut the top out of it.

I don't see why not. Some will say that copper is bad in your boil, where as some will say that it is necessary (have even heard of some english breweries putting some copper into the boil after upgrading to all stainless steel). There will be no major change in the beer if you leave it in there for the whole boil as far as I know.

Cheers
Phil
 
I don't see why not. Some will say that copper is bad in your boil, where as some will say that it is necessary (have even heard of some english breweries putting some copper into the boil after upgrading to all stainless steel). There will be no major change in the beer if you leave it in there for the whole boil as far as I know.

Cheers
Phil
Awesome. Ive just finished making the pot today. I went to put the chiller in and..... shit it dont fit!!! After a lot of bending a manipulation looks like its gonna stay there for good!
 
Good question.

I find with me brew rig with the imersion chiller where flame out additions get shilled fast and sit for half hour or more...... i get a great hop aroma.

With my smaller set up i use to No chill cubes........ i get bugger all hop aroma... no matter how much flame out additions i use.

I have toyed with the idea of getting a plate chiler so would be interested to hear the ideas of those that use them.

cheers

Is there any way to get aroma by using no chill cubes? What about if I add the late addition hops into the cube & let sit overnight, then use a sieve to strain the wort into the fermenter the next day?
 

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