QldKev's New Biab With Internal Rims

[Pugwash]

Prochem are very good quality. http://www.prochem.com.au/contact-us/
Craftbrewer stock these https://www.craftbrewer.com.au/shop/details.asp?PID=2844
ebay from China. Cheap but I have heard about problems with quality
I got mine from a local supplier here in Bundy. Decent price and not bad quality.

 

[Pugwash]

Just watch the thread. Pipe comes in BSP (British Standard Pipe) where the thread goes all the way in and NPT (National Pipe Thread(American)) which is tapered. NPT doesn't screw all the way in and is hard to get a seal when going through a kettle wall.

 

[Moad]

Thanks Pugwash, if I don't go the china stainless I think I'll start out with Brass and upgrade to stainless later

 

[QldKev]

Thanks Pugwash, if I don't go the china stainless I think I'll start out with Brass and upgrade to stainless later

All mine are still brass on my 1V and 3V

I did get sent a KegKrap "Stainless Pipe with External ½” BSP Thread - 35mm Long (005656)" to try out but never got around to swapping it over

 

[Moad]

The exchange rate killed me on the PID's so trying to be a bit cheap on the remaining work.


There was a thread on that supplier (chinese ebay stainless fittings) and the feedback was that the quality was acceptable so I am really not sure what to do

 

[QldKev]

The exchange rate killed me on the PID's so trying to be a bit cheap on the remaining work.


There was a thread on that supplier (chinese ebay stainless fittings) and the feedback was that the quality was acceptable so I am really not sure what to do

I have purchased heaps and heaps of stainless gear from 2014online on ebay, excellent supplier for stainless stuff. When ever I get around to updating the remaining parts for this hobby they will be my source of parts.

 

[Moad]

That was the seller.

Thanks Kev, back to stainless it is hahaha.

Just need to measure of those threaded pipe lengths so it is aaaal stainless.

Hopefully I can get enough thread on the compression fittings through the wall of the keg to put the elbows on

 

[Bomber Watson]

Just watch the thread. Pipe comes in BSP (British Standard Pipe) where the thread goes all the way in and NPT (National Pipe Thread(American)) which is tapered. NPT doesn't screw all the way in and is hard to get a seal when going through a kettle wall.

Dont forget bspt. Bsp thread with a taper.

 

[teebee]

Hi qldkev love the design mate, I'm looking to set up my 40l crown urn similarly and was looking for some advice. I'm thinking of a pizza tray as a false bottom as 12" will fit quite snug and continue to use a bag. What is the height difference between your 'false bottom' or bottom of your inner pot and bottom of your kettle? With the element being in the centre of the urn should I aim to pass the flow from the return tube over it or continue to set it up so it whirlpools like yours. I fear if I whirlpooled it I would create a scorching problem.

 

[QldKev]

The pizza tray I used originally had 100mm legs. I would direct the wort stream across the element, as you said the key is to prevent the scorching.

 

[teebee]

Thanks mate, and are you fittings and pipe 1/2" or 3/8"? Does it make a difference between the two?

 

[QldKev]

All mine are 1/2" BSP. Most main home brew pumps now recommend using 3/4" on the inlet and 1/2" on the return side.

 

[Pugwash]

Hi QldKev

I have brewed twice in my 1V. I'm continuing to have trouble with the mash sticking/flowing very slowly. I have to have my top return on just a trickle or on then shut off etc. I have added more holes to the 'malt pipe' but this doesn't seem to of helped much. I end up have to disturb the grain bed to get it to flow. The wort then gets very 'murky', however this does settle out at the end of the boil and in the fermenter and cooling cube. One of the advantages I was hope for with this system was a clearer wort.

Here is a picture of the crashed grain (done at the LHB shop, I'm not sure what setting they have their mill on.)
Both mashs I have had trouble with contained Wheat Malt. This one pictured was for a Golden Ale (2.6kg of Pale, 850g of Munich 1, 850g of Wheat, 40g of Caraaroma) The other recipe only had 400g of wheat malt.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/image/8993-img-2223/

This is the malt pipe in current form. 3/32inch holes and 1mm grinder slits.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/image/8994-img-2227/

Any suggestions? Should I drill the holes out to 2.5mm? Drill more holes? Try to get a different crush? Any other ideas.

 

[QldKev]

By the sounds of when you stir the wort you are ending up channeling, hence the wort not really clarifying after that point. The crush looks good. The slots and holes look like there is plenty.

When you say the mash is sticking, it the inner pot filling up and overflowing?

 

[Pugwash]

Yeah, the inner pot drains very slowly and would fill and overflow if left. I think the slits in your pot are much longer. Allowing a much greater flow through. I made them shorter and used more holes because I was worried about the strength of the base. The top return has to be on only trickle (nothing even close to the the flow you get). How many litres of water do you put in for mashing. I put about 26L. Is the bottom of you inner pot below the wort level in the outer pot?

 

[QldKev]

The wort level in my outer pot would be almost half the way up the innner pot. My slits are def longer, but if I designed it again I would have gone with more your length. Your local, let me know when you are brewing next and I'll help empty your beer fridge. I think it will be easiest to see it and see what is happening.

 

[RobB]

.............I'm continuing to have trouble with the mash sticking/flowing very slowly. I have to have my top return on just a trickle or on then shut off etc

................Both mashs I have had trouble with contained Wheat Malt.

.............Any suggestions? Should I drill the holes out to 2.5mm? Drill more holes? Try to get a different crush? Any other ideas.

Have you tried rice hulls? Even if you don't fancy using them for every brew, they could at least confirm whether or not it's your crush. I have a similar system to QldKev's and I routinely throw them in at 5% of the total grain weight plus an additional 5% for anything without a husk. I have had brews where the entire 15 L/min flow (Kaixin pump) went through the grain bed without needing my overflow diversion (my alternative to QldKev's bottom valve).

Even though my grain bed is obviously very free flowing, my wort clarity and efficiency are excellent.

I think you're only a minor tweak away from getting the wort you want. Best of luck.

 

[Pugwash]

Sounds great. It won't be for a while, but I'll let you know. Cheers.

 

[Pugwash]

Thanks Malty Cultural. Will try the rice hulls if I can't sort it out. Worth a try.

 

[Moad]

Some progress pics, all wired up and tested with some sodium perc through to clean. We made 2 at the same time but got this one up and running.

Very happy with the fittings purchased from 2014online particularly the camlocks. Everything can be unplugged from the control box, pump and vessel meaning small footprint.

Just need some insulation and a trolley/stand. Also need to finish drilling holes in the internal pot and add little bolts on the outside to lift it out.

Not sure what I am going to do about the lid, will possibly use the pot lid and cover it in a few layers of camping mat insulation.

For the top return I'll be using some silicone hose into the compression fitting.

Will post some pics when complete, thanks for the ideas Kev