Pitching Dry Yeasts

[BKBrews]

I've now done a handful of brews and only ever used dry yeast. After purchasing the grainfather, my next batch will be the first larger scale (23L).

I've been using US-05 and what is written on the packet is different to what is on the product information from their website. The website says to re-hydrate using wort that equals 10x the weight of the yeast @ 27 degrees +- 3 degrees. Stir until creamy, let sit for 30min, then slowly stir for a further 30min.

I have been taking the wort from the kettle during the boil and allowing this to cool to pitching temp. From there, I've sprinkled in the yeast, stirred it in, then covered until I'm 30min from pitching. When I'm 30min from pitching, I uncover it and continue to stir for 20 - 30min, then pitch directly to the fermenter.

Is this best practice? I know a lot of people say to sprinkle directly into wort (including the packet saying that), but if I want to re-hydrate am I going about it the best way? I've seen that some people just re-hydrate into water, but I read somewhere that this can damage the cell walls.

I want to try some interesting liquid yeasts eventually, but find the whole starter thing a bit daunting at this stage.

 

[SBOB]

You definitely want to rehydrate ( I'm not getting into that debate though), but I doubt you would see any difference between hydrating in water compared to wort.

 

[BKBrews]

You definitely want to rehydrate ( I'm not getting into that debate though), but I doubt you would see any difference between hydrating in water compared to wort.

Interesting. If I continue to use wort (as per the website instructions), is taking it from about 30min into the boil OK?

 

[TheWiggman]

If rehydrating it should be done in water, not wort. Pitching into wort will defeats the purpose.. Here's a quick online excerpt:

"The idea is to combine water and dry yeast in order to “wake up” the yeast and restart its metabolism. When pitched directly into wort, the sugars that are present can prevent the yeast cells from drawing enough water through their cell membranes to kick start their metabolism."

 

[Yob]

**** me.. really? again?

If you are going to the trouble of rehydrating, use water for best yeast health, after 15 minutes you can gently stir and add a bit of wort if you like, pitch within 30 minutes

 

[pcqypcqy]

I only use dry yeast. Not from any informed brewing preference or style, just because I haven't added yeast rehydration / handling liquid yeasts into my skill set yet.

For 6 gallon batch as you propose, I usually pitch two packets of dry yeast straight into the wort when it has reached pitching temp. Since I've been doing this I've had no problems. I DID have problems previously trying (and badly) to rehydrate dry yeast using no technique and getting it wrong most of the time.

So I'm going to say that at this scale, using dry yeast out of the packet should be fine. My understanding is that once you get talking about bigger batches and higher gravities (like barley wines), then yeast health becomes more critical. Possibly also for lagers where off flavours can be crucial.

I know there's a good debate on the merits of rehydrating yeasts, and I don't want to get involved in that. I just know this works for me for the sorts of beers I brew (usually ales, strongest being around 6.5%).

 

[Killer Brew]

Shouldn't be an issue as would be well and truly sterile at that point. Only question would be of gravity. What does the website suggest? Also ensuring it is at the correct temp obviously. I just go with water.

Or just listen to the experts above and use water.

 

[Rocker1986]

What Yob says is what I do. I don't add wort to it but I let it sit 15 mins or so, then whack it on the stir plate on low speed until it's a cream and pitch, I always make sure I pitch within 30 minutes too. It works really well in my experience. I haven't dry pitched yeast into wort for a long time.

My view is that yeast health is one of the most important aspects of brewing, for all beers not just high OG ones, and one that many overlook. I don't profess to know as much as Yob about it, but it is something that I'm putting in a fair bit of time to learn about.

 

[kaiserben]

I've seen that some people just re-hydrate into water, but I read somewhere that this can damage the cell walls.

Are you sure about that? I've read the opposite. That with dried yeast, the cell walls can be overwhelmed by the sudden introduction of sugars before the cells have had the chance to establish themselves with strong walls.

I've read that dry pitching directly into wort sees sugars burst through cell walls and can kill off about half your cells. (whether you're pitching into your fermenter or into a little starter is exactly the same. Both are pitching into wort).

Just rehydrate with water.

 

[Yob]

^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^

 

[kaiserben]

I want to try some interesting liquid yeasts eventually, but find the whole starter thing a bit daunting at this stage.

Just do it. It's easy once you've done it once.

If nothing else it should steer you in the direction of making sure your pitching rates are correct - thus making better beer.

 

[BKBrews]

Shouldn't be an issue as would be well and truly sterile at that point. Only question would be of gravity. What does the website suggest? Also ensuring it is at the correct temp obviously. I just go with water.

Or just listen to the experts above and use water.

The website is very vague and just says water or wort - no mention of how you're supposed to obtain the wort.

One brew I was kind of pissy and accidentally pitched the dry yeast into sanitised water - still my worst beer to date.

 

[Rocker1986]

That is my understanding of it too kaiserben. It wasn't the reason I began re-hydrating yeast, I did that because pitching dry onto a huge foam layer after the wort was tipped into the FV from a cube seemed rather daft. This practice lasted one batch. I wanted the yeast in the wort ASAP so began re-hydrating. It was only later that I learned about the osmotic pressure from the wort bursting cell walls and such, which only added to the reasons to re-hydrate it to me.

 

[BKBrews]

The website and package also says 11.5g is sufficient for 20 - 30L of wort - why are people using 2 packets for 23L batches?

Thanks for the help everyone, I'll give boiled water a go this time. Hopefully after I have a few brews on the grainfather under my belt, I'll be able to experiment with all different kinds of yeast.

 

[Killer Brew]

This would be 2 packs for above certain gravity. Use a pitch rate calculator like Brewer's Friend. Can be applied to dry or liquid yeast.

 

[Rocker1986]

The website and package also says 11.5g is sufficient for 20 - 30L of wort - why are people using 2 packets for 23L batches?

Depends on the OG of the wort. The cell count per gram seems a bit of an unknown as well. Some say 20 billion per gram, others say 10 billion. Fermentis says minimum 6.9 billion at packaging. The amount of dry yeast recommended will vary depending on what cell count the calculator uses.

I find liquid yeasts easier for this because you can work off a cell count rather than weight. Most calculators will say you need X billion cells for a given batch, so you can either buy enough yeast to get there or build it up in a starter.

 

[mmmyummybeer]

I'm guessing this has got to be the most discussed forum topic ever and does bring a smile to my face when it comes up. Just waiting for the explosion of replies. mmm to rehydrate or not rehydrate that is the question.

Anyway might as well add my 2 cents while I'm here.

There is really is more important things to concentrate on, but if you want to get technical on the rehydrate from what I understand a wort and water mix is the best. Reason being is due to the osmotic pressure from the sugars on the ​​yeast. Some of the yeast cells may not survive going straight into the wort and having a small amount of wort in the water is more gentle on the yeast. One could argue just add more yeast and let natural selection run its course

 

[kaiserben]

The website and package also says 11.5g is sufficient for 20 - 30L of wort - why are people using 2 packets for 23L batches?

Thanks for the help everyone, I'll give boiled water a go this time. Hopefully after I have a few brews on the grainfather under my belt, I'll be able to experiment with all different kinds of yeast.

There are yeast pitching calculators around the internet (I use Yeastcalculator.com, there's also MrMalty.com) and your optimum* number of cells to pitch will depend on many factors, like style of beer (lagers require more yeast cells), gravity (more cells is optimal for higher gravity) etc.

You also have to take into account the how old your pack of yeast is (the number of healthy cells die off the longer it is since the pack was produced).

* Optimum is the important word here, because 1 very fresh pack might get the job done, but might also give you more yeasty esters in your finished beer because they are under more stress than they would have been if you'd pitched the optimum number of cells.

 

[pcqypcqy]

The website and package also says 11.5g is sufficient for 20 - 30L of wort - why are people using 2 packets for 23L batches?

Thanks for the help everyone, I'll give boiled water a go this time. Hopefully after I have a few brews on the grainfather under my belt, I'll be able to experiment with all different kinds of yeast.

I was using one packet for my first few brews, but had some slow / non starters. Possibly as a result of what the other guys have said before, maybe dry pitching does kill half your cells, I don't know. However since I went to two packets this hasn't been an issue. Packets say a lot of things, but given my experience with it and the risk of wasting $50 odd worth of ingredients, I spend $5 more as insurance.

 

[Rocker1986]

There is really is more important things to concentrate on, but if you want to get technical on the rehydrate from what I understand a wort and water mix is the best. Reason being is due to the osmotic pressure from the sugars on the ​​yeast. Some of the yeast cells may not survive going straight into the wort and having a small amount of wort in the water is more gentle on the yeast.

I'm confused by this. If some of the cells are going to be killed by osmotic pressure from the sugars in the wort bursting their walls, I can't see how adding any wort to the re-hydration water before pitching the yeast into it could be gentler on the yeast. Everything I've read on the subject recommends re-hydrating in water only.