Noob Mead Makers Wanted - Apply Within

[brettprevans]

good info. whats your experiance with yeast pitching rates?

 

[Ronin]

Hi Dave,

definitely planning on keeping it simple for the first few batches. I don't know if I've ever had mead with fruit in it.

I was just going to get the yeast nutrient from craftbrewer, that has everything I need? There was some discussion somewhere about DAP and nutrient being different and you have to add both. It'd be much easier if I can just use the one from Ross.

Thanks,

James

 

[davewaldo]

From what I have read, Fermaid-K really is the best all round Nutrient. From the limited info I can get from the manufacturers of the Craftbrewer Nutrient, it seems to be very similar. The CB nutrient already contains around 50% or more of DAP. It also contains yeast extract with is the other important ingredient. They main reason I use Fermaid-K is that I know its good, and I know whats in it, and I can easily confer with other experienced Mead makers around the world as they can also relate to this nutrient.

So to answer you questions: Yes, I think you can use just the CB nutrient. I have done batches with just this nutrient and they turned out OK (it was my early batches I made with this nutrient so its hard for me to judge).

As for pitching rates, I usually go by the wine recommendation for that yeast or slightly higher.

One thing you don't want to do is make a start which contains any nutrient! You can actually damage you yeast this way, and also the yeast then get a shock when they hit the must. The only nutrient to use during rehydration or a starter is Go-Ferm, which contains no DAP.

 

[chappo1970]

Welcome Dave!
Actually this started from the other Honey thread as there was a lot interest in the mead subject. Please feel free to contribute as much or as little as you want.

 

[Ronin]

From what I have read, Fermaid-K really is the best all round Nutrient. From the limited info I can get from the manufacturers of the Craftbrewer Nutrient, it seems to be very similar. The CB nutrient already contains around 50% or more of DAP. It also contains yeast extract with is the other important ingredient. They main reason I use Fermaid-K is that I know its good, and I know whats in it, and I can easily confer with other experienced Mead makers around the world as they can also relate to this nutrient.

So to answer you questions: Yes, I think you can use just the CB nutrient. I have done batches with just this nutrient and they turned out OK (it was my early batches I made with this nutrient so its hard for me to judge).

As for pitching rates, I usually go by the wine recommendation for that yeast or slightly higher.

One thing you don't want to do is make a start which contains any nutrient! You can actually damage you yeast this way, and also the yeast then get a shock when they hit the must. The only nutrient to use during rehydration or a starter is Go-Ferm, which contains no DAP.

So if I wanted to propagate a Wyeast mead yeast on DME, how would I acclimatise it to growing in must? Is there anything else I can propagate it in?

 

[newguy]

I was just going to get the yeast nutrient from craftbrewer, that has everything I need? There was some discussion somewhere about DAP and nutrient being different and you have to add both. It'd be much easier if I can just use the one from Ross.

My first cider and perry both started to get stinky (sulphur) and someone on the BJCP's forums suggested DAP as a fix. It did fix the problem. Since honey is about as devoid of nutrients as apple and pear juice, I always add it just in case. I have no evidence that leaving it out will lead to a sulphury mead as I've always added it and don't know what will happen if I leave it out. However, from my experience with the cider and perry I can tell you that if the mead takes on a sulphur aroma, you can add it then, and the aroma will disappear.

 

[davewaldo]

For sweet meads I aim for 1.120
Meadium Meads, maybe 1.095-1.100
Dry Meads 1.090

This is if using a yeast with an alc tolerance of around 14%.


Some rough Gravity levels for those who want a rough guide:

3.3kg Honey - 10L water = 1.100

1.6kg Honey - 5L water = 1.100


2.9kg Honey - 10L = 1.090

I like to do 4.5-5L batches for new recipes. I often add 1.5Kg of honey and get a medium Mead.

 

[brettprevans]

billent OG info there mate cheers.

if using the W47 (as you indicated you do), how many packs of yeast do you use if what i should have asked.

Also just fyi Ive just ordered Ken Schramm's book. should be good for a read if nothing else.

 

[chappo1970]

For sweet meads I aim for 1.120
Meadium Meads, maybe 1.095-1.100
Dry Meads 1.090

This is if using a yeast with an alc tolerance of around 14%.


Some rough Gravity levels for those who want a rough guide:

3.3kg Honey - 10L water = 1.100

1.6kg Honey - 5L water = 1.100


2.9kg Honey - 10L = 1.090

I like to do 4.5-5L batches for new recipes. I often add 1.5Kg of honey and get a medium Mead.

D'oh!

You said that on the other thread! Thanks for the ratio's!

5lt batch would yield how much Mead roughly?

 

[Ronin]

So does that mean the final gravity is more dependent on the starting gravity than it is on the attenuation of the yeast? Or does the % alcohol stop the yeast before complete attenuation can be reached?

Sorry for the barrage of questions, I'll get myself a book soon.

 

[davewaldo]

As for Nutrient Scheduling:

I like to Re-hydrate with Go-Ferm (or just re-hydrate with plain water)
Then once the lag phase is over (active fermentation has begun) I add 2.5g of Fermaid-K per 10L of Must
Then once the one third sugar break is reached (1/3 of sugars eaten, usually a few days) I add another 2.5g of Fermaid-K per 10L
Everyday the Must is aerated well.

I think it would be safe to substitute the CB nutrient in similar quantities.

The reason no nutrient is added at the start is:
1. So any bad yeasts or nasties don't use those nutrients to out compete your yeast.
2. Its been shown in research that the yeast do better, and start stronger this way.

Ideally your trying to keep your yeast strong and healthy but ALWAYS hungry, otherwise they won't want to eat up all those sugars!

 

[chappo1970]

Sorry for the barrage of questions, I'll get myself a book soon.

Ronin this threads for noobs to Mead like you and me... that's the idea, ask questions so we can all learn. I am sure the guys here won't mind a bit?

 

[Ronin]

Ronin this threads for noobs to Mead like you and me... that's the idea, ask questions so we can all learn. I am sure the guys here won't mind a bit?

I feel a little better now :lol:

 

[davewaldo]

hehe, learning about mead making is fun huh!

Ok....

The yeast I use is D-47, not W47. Its a dry wine yeast. I use one 8g packet for a 10L batch. Maybe 2 packets for a 20L batch, but one might be enough.

The general idea to get the sweetness you like is to take the yeast beyond its alcohol tolerance. So if you want a sweet mead, use enough honey to go to 16-17% percent but the yeast should stop at 14%, therefore leaving it a bit sweet. If you want a medium Mead, go a little lower, for dry maybe aim for 13% and the yeast will go all the way and eat all the sugars.

The biggest problem with doing small batches it you only end up with about 4-5 750ml bottles by the end of it, after taking out hydrometer samples and things.

But its a good way to test new recipes and ingredients/yeasts.

Honey is expensive, so I want to know I'm onto a good thing before I outlay $$ for a 20L batch.

 

[davewaldo]

I should also note that most of the yeasts suitable for mead need to ferment quite cool.

Often around 16 degrees. So check with the manufacturer of the yeast for their temp recommendations and try to keep it to the cooler end to the range they recommend.

 

[chappo1970]

hehe, learning about mead making is fun huh!

Down right addictive IMO

...problem with doing small batches it you only end up with about 4-5 750ml bottles by the end of it, after taking out hydrometer samples and things...Honey is expensive, so I want to know I'm onto a good thing before I outlay $$ for a 20L batch.

4-5 750ml to start with would be perfect for me. I just want to get my toes wet in this craft for the moment and wish to experiment till I come across a flavour/style that I like and then I will hit the 20lt batches for sure.

 

[davewaldo]

The small 5L glass carboys are good for small batches and for ageing the mead. But you will need 2 so you can rack between them.

I have 4 of them so I can have 3 meads on the go at once. I always have a clean one so I can rack off the lees when necessary.

Its good to rack off the lees after primary (just like a beer, you can cold crash too if you like) and then leave it to settle, maybe for a couple of months and then rack again and then let it age/clear (maybe only rack once for a 5L batch or it will disappear!).

Don't bottle until you can read a newspaper through it!

 

[chappo1970]

Thanks Dave for all the advice

Looks like I'm off to CB's tomorrow for some 5lt carboys and some yeast and some nutrients and some.... :lol:

 

[davewaldo]

I thought I might tell you how my first mead went....

I used US-05, which can be good for a mead you want to drink it young.

I did some aeration and used a good amount of nutrient. Unfortunately the yeast conked out at about 10% alc (wyeast says is can go to 12-13%). So I was left with a VERY sweet mead around 1.040, but the taste was actually really good! This is really common in mead making. Getting good performance out of your yeast is the only tricky part in making Mead I think.

So if I was to give any advice to the new mead maker, I would recommend using a lower starting gravity, and don't assumer your yeast will fully attenuate. If your yeast is going strong and ferments dry you can always feed it more honey until it stops at the sweetness you like.

So I might blend this sweet mead with a dryer one eventually, but at the moment I've left it to age.... the girls like it sweet anyways....

Oh also remember... Ageing fixes nearly everything! So never tip out a bad tasting mead, no matter how bad it is. Leave it for a year and see how it goes.

 

[AndrewQLD]

Here's a picture of my Orange, Cinnamon and Clove mead, really easy to make and uses bakers yeast as well.



Recipe is:
1.6kg Macadamia honey
1 Large orange (later cut in eights or smaller rind and all)
1 small handful of raisins (25 if you count but more or less ok)
1 stick of cinnamon
1 whole clove
1 teaspoon of Dried bread yeasr
Balance water to one gallon

I adapted the recipe from here Joe Mattioli's Foolproof Ancient Orange, Clove, and Cinnamon Mead


Andrew