Noob Mead Makers Wanted - Apply Within

[Wolfy]

newguy, according to the MP3 interview (linked above) Kurt Stock credits much of his basic process to Ken Schramm's book and in the interview he also suggests adding the yeast nutrients gradually over several days - starting about 6 hours after the yeast is pitched. What I was trying to decipher was where/how to get those yeast nutrients that they mention (and you also explain above) here in Australia, hopefully someone in this thread will have a supplier suggestion.

Interestingly Ken also suggests using a no-heat method where he dumps the honey (even solid) in the fermenter and then uses sanitized electric beaters to completely mix & aerate for about 10 mins. The way he talks it makes the entire process seem much simpler and quicker than making beer and much less complex than I thought mead making would be.

 

[newguy]

[The way he talks it makes the entire process seem much simpler and quicker than making beer and much less complex than I thought mead making would be.

Our club brought in a local commercial meadmaker a couple of years ago to give us a talk about mead. Some of things he said had most of the crowd politely raising their eyebrows in disbelief because there's just no way that you can get away with them for beer. For instance, his matter-of-fact assurance that you can make a very good mead with baker's yeast. The man had never heard of liquid yeast either. However, his meads were good so he must know what he was talking about.

I pasteurise my must because I'm just way, way too paranoid. It only takes me a little longer to do and it affords me piece of mind, so I'm going to continue doing it. But you can still make great mead without pasteurisation. I just can't bring myself to not do it, that's all.

What I was trying to decipher was where/how to get those yeast nutrients that they mention (and you also explain above) here in Australia, hopefully someone in this thread will have a supplier suggestion.

This is the same thing as the yeast nutrient available in north america I mentioned earlier. You can get diammonium phosphate here (sorry no picture).

 

[Wolfy]

This is the same thing as the yeast nutrient available in north america I mentioned earlier. You can get diammonium phosphate here (sorry no picture).

Thankyou.
Both site sponsors also so I'd looked at what they had, but was confused since they both use the name name 'yeast nutrient' so I was not sure if they were both an all-in-one product or if they were different things like it seems they are.

 

[Ronin]

Just letting you all know, Grain and Grape are putting in an order from Wyeast on Monday. I'm getting the 4632 dry yeast ordered. I don't know how often they order, but get in before monday if you want it soon.

Feel better now, I'm doing something :lol:

James

 

[reviled]

I guess I can get them from there as a last resort, but I'm always a bit iffy about the long postage.

Mate, I wouldnt worry about that at all! Most of us kiwi's get our liquids through Ross, bet it takes a hell of alot longer to get to us than it does for you, and all my yeasties have been fine, dried and liquid B) Plus Ross is a top bloke and runs an awesome business which we should all support!

No affiliation yadayada

 

[scott_penno]

Brendo,

I made a dry mead some 6 months ago using 3kg honey topped up to 10L and then used EC1118 (champagne yeast). I let if ferment right out (ended up at 0.999) and bottled half without priming and primed the other half with around 24g/L of sugar to give around 6 atmospheres of CO2 which is supposed to end up something champagne like. Sampled after two months and I wasn't overly impressed and have left it alone ever since because it is supposed to improve with age. I could bring some along to the case swap if you're interested?

sap.

 

[Moray]

hi all,

I have used champange yeast in the past and have been very happy with results.
I also used pectinase. I can't remeber why, I think it was to help the yeasties break down the complex sugars in honey.

 

[chappo1970]

Ok I am wayyy to lazy today to do a search on this...

WTF is "pectinase"? And how important is it in making Mead?

 

[brendo]

Brendo,

I made a dry mead some 6 months ago using 3kg honey topped up to 10L and then used EC1118 (champagne yeast). I let if ferment right out (ended up at 0.999) and bottled half without priming and primed the other half with around 24g/L of sugar to give around 6 atmospheres of CO2 which is supposed to end up something champagne like. Sampled after two months and I wasn't overly impressed and have left it alone ever since because it is supposed to improve with age. I could bring some along to the case swap if you're interested?

sap.

Hey Sappas - that would be awesome if you don't mind. From what I have read/heard - 2 months is probably a bit early, I think they are supposed to hit their straps at around 12 months. Would love to pick your brain about it at the swap tho.

Thanks for the offer mate!!

brendo

 

[Airgead]

I found this thread interesting

http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...?showtopic=9714

Sounds like Airgead did some experimenting with mead a few years ago. I'd be interested in how they turned out, maybe he'll let us know?

I will indeed...Happy to help fellow meadmakers out.

The experiments are still ongoing. I'm playing around with fruit meads at the moment making multiple batches and varying one element of the brewing process each time to see what works and what doesn't.

I bought a 25kg bucket of honey and have been using that in all test meads to remove honey as a variable.

So far I have investigated the following pieces of meadmaking lore -

Add acid to balance after fermentation not before. Result - makes no difference at all tot he ferments I have done. Identical batches one with acid one without fermented in the same vessel with half of the same starter finished at the same FG in the same time. Adding acid after fermentation does mean you only need to dose the finished mead and not any that gets wasted during fermentation (trub, racking losses etc) but that's not a big deal on a home scale. Myth busted

Mead needs nutrients for good fermentation - result: you bet it does. If you want a 2 year fermentation then leave the nutrient out. I haven't played with multiple nutrient additions, I've just been adding it to the primary at the recommended rate. Myth confirmed.

Boil your honey - result: i know I'm starting a religious war with this one but I come down on the side of no boil. I find the best results are add the honey to water at 70c and sit at that temp for 10 mins or so to pasteurise. Boiled honey has very little aroma after fermentation. Many batches and not one infection from not boiling. Myth busted.

You can't make a good mead with eucalyptus honey - result: I use nothing but (red gum is what I bought 25kg of) and I think the meads are pretty good. They do take a year or so to mature but they end up with a lot of character. If you use a bland honey it matures quickly but has no character. Maybe for a mel or meth but for a straight mead you want the honey character there. Myth busted.

My standard test mead at the moment is a strawberry melomel as I am looking into the best way to get the fruit character preserved. Results not fully in yet but so far I can say that adding the fruit in secondary fermentation gives a better result that adding to the primary.

I'll keep you guys updated...

Cheers
Dave

 

[Effect]

Here is my only contribution...

I have been watching how to make mead on youtube.

mead making youtube channel

 

[fraser_john]

Thanks Dave, good info, especially the no-boil bit!

 

[Airgead]

Ok I am wayyy to lazy today to do a search on this...

WTF is "pectinase"? And how important is it in making Mead?

OK... Pectinase is an enzyme that breaks down the pectins in fruit. It is used in meadmaking as it kelps fruit meads (melomels) to clear and helps extract the flavours. I also use it for making cider and fruit beer.

If you are just making a straight mead (honey and water) pectinase will do you no good at all.

Cheers
Dave

 

[chappo1970]

OK... Pectinase is an enzyme that breaks down the pectins in fruit. It is used in meadmaking as it kelps fruit meads (melomels) to clear and helps extract the flavours. I also use it for making cider and fruit beer.

If you are just making a straight mead (honey and water) pectinase will do you no good at all.

Cheers
Dave

Cheers for that. Pectin I have used in making jams/conserves so i thought that might be in the same vein.

Any recipe suggestions for a 1st time Mead maker with 10kgs of Ironbark Honey?

 

[Hefty]

Hi guys,
I'm not making mead yet but I'm keeping the idea tucked away for the near future. I do have a question tho:
I recently read one of Charlie P's books (I always get his titles mixed up so I won't list it in case I get it wrong) and it had a section on mead that talked about calculating OG's from honey and I was totally lost. I couldn't follow it.
Do you measure the OG as per usual with hydrometer?
How can you calculate/estimate anticipated OG from a given amount of honey in water?

Cheers!
Jono.

 

[Airgead]

Cheers for that. Pectin I have used in making jams/conserves so i thought that might be in the same vein.

Any recipe suggestions for a 1st time Mead maker with 10kgs of Ironbark Honey?

Ironbark makes a great mead. I used to buy a dry ironbark mead from Mt Vincent in Mudgee before it closed down.

Its a good strong honey so it will make a lovely straight mead if you are prepared to wait for it to mature. All you need to do is pasteurise the honey at 70c for 10 mins or so and dilute down to the OG you want. I'm assuming you'll be making a 5l batch to start with in which case between 750g and 2kg of honey will give you something in the right range (hard to give an accurate figure as honeys do vary). Start with 750g, measure OG and keep adding till you hit your mark. Add yeast nutrient to the recommended level in the primary. Ferment with a wine yeast. Dry wine yeast if you want a dry mead, sweet yeast if you don't. I use the dry wine yeasts and they are fine. I haven't experimented on pitching rates yet so i can't advise there. The manufacturer's recommendations seem to work OK. Test the acid levels and adjust to suit the style you are aiming for. You will need to add a fair bit as honey doesn't have much of its own. Your acid test kit will have some PPM recommendations for different wine styles. I usually shoot for a little under what the wine recommendations are. If you are adding fruit, adjust acid AFTER adding the fruit as the fruit will have acid in it and you will end up with too much.

If you want to add fruit, do it in the secondary. Add a little at first, ferment it out and taste. If its not enough, add more. Its easier to add more than it is to take some away after you have added it. Remember that the flavours will mellow and change with time so if it tastes just a tiny bit too much now it will probably be OK when its mature. Its not an exact science, trial and error is the only way to get the amount right.

Cheers
Dave

 

[chappo1970]

Thanks Airgead

What would be a good OG? 1070 or higher?

 

[Ronin]

I will indeed...Happy to help fellow meadmakers out.

The experiments are still ongoing. I'm playing around with fruit meads at the moment making multiple batches and varying one element of the brewing process each time to see what works and what doesn't.

I bought a 25kg bucket of honey and have been using that in all test meads to remove honey as a variable.

So far I have investigated the following pieces of meadmaking lore -

I'll keep you guys updated...

Cheers
Dave

Thanks for chiming in Dave, that was a great post.

I was listening to the Jamil Show on mead on the train home lastnight, interesting that the mead expert he had on (can't remember his name) pretty much agreed with all of your points except the acid. He pretty much specifically stated add the acid at the end if you are going to. It's always good to hear the results of first hand experiments. I'm pretty sure he said there was nothing wrong with eucalypt honey also.

Sounds like you're stepping through the variables in a very scientific manner.

Thanks for your input,

James

P.S. I'm also interested in what O.G.s you started off at. I'm getting a few 3kg batches of honey to start off with, which I think whould get me in the area of 1.080 in 10L.

 

[Online Brewing Supplies]

Mead needs nutrients for good fermentation - result: you bet it does. If you want a 2 year fermentation then leave the nutrient out. I haven't played with multiple nutrient additions, I've just been adding it to the primary at the recommended rate. Myth confirmed.



I'll keep you guys updated...

Cheers
Dave

Have a look http://www.gryphonbrewing.com.au/store/pro...;products_id=79 for info on nuitrient. Dont know if this is what you use.

 

[davewaldo]

Wow, somehow I missed this thread until now! Its becoming quite a "Beginners Guide" which is GREAT!

I've been experimenting with Meads for a while now and I'm really enjoying it!

For those looking for a great supplier of yeasts and Nutrient look at www.morewinemaking.com They stock all the yeasts and nutrients you will hear mentioned in most of the good recipes (like Fermaid-K and GoFerm). I like to use D-47 yeast for all my plain Meads, particularly the sweet ones.

If your not keen to buy from overseas, the best nutrient I have found is the one sold at CB as discussed above. Its a complex Nutrient as apposed to plain DAP.

A lot of people are asking about how to predict specific gravity of Mead musts. On you will find a "Mead Calculator" its a bit tricky to use, but there is a help section. This calculator can predict you gravity, but also tell you how much honey to add to increase you gravity from one point to another. It also contians friut sugar levels if your making a Melomel.

As I use glass carboys I prefer to aerate with a airstone and pump. For one its easier, but I also think it pumps fresh air down into the carboy. If you aerate with a stirrer on a drill (or similar) once fermentation has been going for a few days, the must will out-gas CO2 which will fill the glass carboy and all your stirring will just keep mixing this gas around, I don't see how fresh O2 would get into the Must. This isn't an issue if you do your primary ferment in a bucket (as the air can move around), but in glass carboys I think its an issue.

I have Ken Schramm's book and its a VERY good guide to get you going.

I would thoroughly recommend a beginner to start with a simple plain mead as their first go. This way you can get to know the process and actually taste what fermented honey tastes like. You'll also be able to appreciate better how it ages.

Well, I've ranted enough for this post....

Dave.