Matho's controller

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Just finished the top half of the controller and hooked it up, it lives!! :p <div>
Thanks again Steve for all your work.
LED holders will be insulated on inside of lid.




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I'll have another go.....



494730B1-C06B-44CB-B0E7-59C83EFFC251-1403-000001EBA39DA110.jpg
 
Found them at work mate, but sure I've seen similar at jaycar, make sure you insulate or earth on the inside though.
 
Here is some info on arc suppression as Steve was talking about,
Reference from this site http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/io/io_5.html

Yeah I've been doing a bit of reading too :) in here http://www.electrocube.com/products/rcnetw...rc_networks.asp it suggests that you should put the rc network across the switch in a DC circuit, and across the load in an AC circuit... but then other places (like your link) suggest that across the switch is fine in an AC circuit
 
The arduino seems very susceptible to noise, the noise is produced by the switch when switching an inductive load like a march pump. sheilding of the wire would not produce much of an effect.

Interesting you say this, because I get scrambled display even with no load. That is, if I have the 12V circuit selected, everything is fine. If I have the 240V circuit selected, I have the problem when I switch the pump on and off, regardless of whether the pump is plugged into the output or not. So I thought shielding would help, but it didnt.
 
Interesting you say this, because I get scrambled display even with no load. That is, if I have the 12V circuit selected, everything is fine. If I have the 240V circuit selected, I have the problem when I switch the pump on and off, regardless of whether the pump is plugged into the output or not. So I thought shielding would help, but it didnt.


Sammus, when you say you have the 12v circuit selected, do you mean you are turning on the Heater?And when you have 240v selected do you mean you are turning on the pump?
 
hi all,

just a update the suppressor i fitted to my controller seams to have fixed the scrambled display :)

however while doing my brew today at the end of the malting stage display shows "remove malt"
so all good i removed the malt pipe and pressed "OK" then the unit went to "pump rest" and the pump was running this did not stop i quit the run and restarted and it went to the "pump rest" with the pump running again.

so i turned off the unit and turned it back on and resumed the run and it went to the boil stage.

this is the timing i use for this brew can some one run the same time and see if it happens to there unit

stage 1 65 deg 5 min

stage 2 66 deg 60 min

stage 3 78 deg 10 min

boil 90min

hops @ 60min 20min 10min



thanks Dave
 
hi all,

just a update the suppressor i fitted to my controller seams to have fixed the scrambled display :)

however while doing my brew today at the end of the malting stage display shows "remove malt"
so all good i removed the malt pipe and pressed "OK" then the unit went to "pump rest" and the pump was running this did not stop i quit the run and restarted and it went to the "pump rest" with the pump running again.

so i turned off the unit and turned it back on and resumed the run and it went to the boil stage.

this is the timing i use for this brew can some one run the same time and see if it happens to there unit

stage 1 65 deg 5 min

stage 2 66 deg 60 min

stage 3 78 deg 10 min

boil 90min

hops @ 60min 20min 10min



thanks Dave

Sounds like a glitch in the code I'll have a look at it tonight, glad the suppression seems to work

Cheers Steve
 
Sammus, when you say you have the 12v circuit selected, do you mean you are turning on the Heater?And when you have 240v selected do you mean you are turning on the pump?

Sorry to be confusing, I meant using a 12V pump vs 240V pump. The point was that even without the pump, when it's wired for 240V pump output it still goes crazy. I added a simple rc network across the switch this morning and it appears to have fixed it. Haven't tested it thoroughly though. All the different articles online telling me how to figure out the right value of R and C for the circuit seemed to give wildy different answers, so I just took the values from the suppressor that matho linked earlier, 100nf and 100 Ohm. Cost about $1.50 from jaycar. It's a little bulky, I put it on tails and soldered it to the pump screw terminals where they stick through the pcb.
 
Sorry to be confusing, I meant using a 12V pump vs 240V pump. The point was that even without the pump, when it's wired for 240V pump output it still goes crazy. I added a simple rc network across the switch this morning and it appears to have fixed it. Haven't tested it thoroughly though. All the different articles online telling me how to figure out the right value of R and C for the circuit seemed to give wildy different answers, so I just took the values from the suppressor that matho linked earlier, 100nf and 100 Ohm. Cost about $1.50 from jaycar. It's a little bulky, I put it on tails and soldered it to the pump screw terminals where they stick through the pcb.


No worries, as long it's rated for 240vac.
 
hi all,

just a update the suppressor i fitted to my controller seams to have fixed the scrambled display :)

however while doing my brew today at the end of the malting stage display shows "remove malt"
so all good i removed the malt pipe and pressed "OK" then the unit went to "pump rest" and the pump was running this did not stop i quit the run and restarted and it went to the "pump rest" with the pump running again.

so i turned off the unit and turned it back on and resumed the run and it went to the boil stage.

this is the timing i use for this brew can some one run the same time and see if it happens to there unit

stage 1 65 deg 5 min

stage 2 66 deg 60 min

stage 3 78 deg 10 min

boil 90min

hops @ 60min 20min 10min



thanks Dave

I had a quick look at the code and it looks like if the last stage finishes on a pump rest then the pump rest flag doesn't get reset and it will display 'pump rest' all the time so I'll have to change the code a bit to reset the pump rest flag in the boil stage. It should continue to do its thing but you won't be able to see anything but 'pump rest' so it should be changed. I'll work on it later tonight. Cheers wotafm for finding this, I'm glad people are starting to use the brauduino's and finding gliches like these.

cheers steve
 
re design of the board to include rc suppression circuit and to move the relay further away from the LCD traces

brauduinov3_board.png

maybe?

cheers steve
 
changed the code so that when the boil is entered the pump rest flag is set to false

CODE

cheers steve
 
Found this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320995231906 for flashing arduino. Seems to be the same as the littlebird ones linked earlier but a heap cheaper. Unlike the other cheap ebay one linked, this one has a socket instead of pins, so can interface with our bonjuinos more easily :)
 
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