Matho's controller

[Liquidarts]

I knew what you meant Bonj. I have an LED lighting controller set up like that for different languages and temp switch between Fahrenheit and Celsius.

EDIT:

So I just re-routed the pins for the original was not much of an issue...save time on re-writing code. But we have D13 and D12 left open on the MCU....any ideas for added input/output? Another Relay maybe with a sensor input...

 

[MastersBrewery]

I knew what you meant Bonj. I have an LED lighting controller set up like that for different languages and temp switch between Fahrenheit and Celsius.

EDIT:

So I just re-routed the pins for the original was not much of an issue...save time on re-writing code. But we have D13 and D12 left open on the MCU....any ideas for added input/output? Another Relay maybe with a sensor input...

The original board was designed for single vessel use, all that would be needed for multi vessel would be to add further heat outputs and of course code, having said that you are then introducing complexity better left for some thing like brewtroller. One possibility would be a circuit for a hop dropper of some kind, and circuit for a hoist, then it truely would be set and forget!!

 

[bigbanko]

Well boards have now been posted and should be here in a few more days.

I will have 6 or 7 spares if anyone is interested let me know.

I now have most parts for the build and have just finished milling out the cutouts in the housing with my milling machine, which makes for a very neat finish.

I have 3 boards left that have not been spoken for.

 

[rodda]

Hey guys thought I'd post a few pics of the unit in action.

Huge thanks to Matho and to the other guys to get this going. It is simply awsome. :beerbang:

Water Testing




Mash In



Mashing away



So easy, I kept walking over expecting to do something! The original idea was for 9L brews, but I think I'm going to go back to the 18L to fill the kegs. Got another 18L pot and Keggle sitting here so the fun begins again. Going to put a water jacket on this one for cooling, then it really will be all in one. Might keep the smaller one for one off test batches.

 

[prestonpaul]

I have 3 boards left that have not been spoken for.

Just found this thread and I'm interested in a board if you have any left.
Cheers.
Paul.

 

[bigbanko]

Just found this thread and I'm interested in a board if you have any left.
Cheers.
Paul.

I have 3 not spoken for.

PM for details

 

[PeteQ]

Rodda that looks awesome! Well done!

I'm a little confused as to how your recirculating is done? The elbow fitting on the side of the pot I'm assuming is the outlet from the little brown pump which looks like it attaches somehow to the malt pipe?

Also I'm assuming you cut out a false bottom to make your top filter plate?

Sorry for all the questions, plenty of ways to skin a cat just very curious how everyone is going about their build.

 

[matho]

Hey Rodda that looks awesome glad you got it going.
I think the small pot is perfect for the kitchen and if you have the controller easy to disconnect then you will be able to move it between units

cheers steve

 

[rodda]

Thanks guys,

The tube that goes back into the pot is from the pump, runs through the elbow into another bit of silicon tube then to the bottom of the malt pipe which has a slotted bit of copper pipe in it. I used a stick element thought the bottom so couldn't take the traditional approach. I just slide off the silicon tube from the elbow and lift out the malt pipe, the top filter plate is just a standard false bottom that I had already cut down a little. Screwed down to a stainless rod in the middle of the malt pipe. Works well.

That's exactly what I was thinking Steve. Seeing the controller box can be disconnected I can just move it to whatever unit I want. Yeah the smaller one is handy in the kitchen, only in a apartment so space is limited!

 

[Sammus]

Loving your setup rodda, do you have a build log anywhere by any chance?

 

[bigbanko]

Thanks guys,

The tube that goes back into the pot is from the pump, runs through the elbow into another bit of silicon tube then to the bottom of the malt pipe which has a slotted bit of copper pipe in it. I used a stick element thought the bottom so couldn't take the traditional approach. I just slide off the silicon tube from the elbow and lift out the malt pipe, the top filter plate is just a standard false bottom that I had already cut down a little. Screwed down to a stainless rod in the middle of the malt pipe. Works well.

That's exactly what I was thinking Steve. Seeing the controller box can be disconnected I can just move it to whatever unit I want. Yeah the smaller one is handy in the kitchen, only in a apartment so space is limited!

Hey Rodda

I see you are using false bottoms to hold in the grain. Are you using any mesh or is the false bottom enough.
I also have a couple of false bottoms I am considering using as they have a 2mm hole perforation.

 

[bigbanko]

What are you guys doing to insulate the terminals from the heating element protruding from the bottom of the pot.

I want to keep it separate from the controller enclosure as I plan on making this removable, but safety is a major concern to me.

 

[rodda]

Thakns Sammus no log sorry, really put it together one arvo with stuff I had.

bigbanko, just standard old false bottom, no mesh. seems to do the job.

 

[Sammus]

Put together my controller finally. Well, I've had the PCBs done for ages, but man making the controller box takes a f'n long time, and stripping like a million wires. I wish I'd invested in some wire strippers. I got one of the kits with the backwards transistors, lucky I got the message to flip them over. No hiccups here, works like a charm from the get go I also added a 240V/12V pump switch just in case I want to change. Currently planning to borrow the march from my big 3V setup for a 10L small batch system, and will eventually get a brown pump for it and leave the march with the main brewery.

 

[matho]

Put together my controller finally. Well, I've had the PCBs done for ages, but man making the controller box takes a f'n long time, and stripping like a million wires. I wish I'd invested in some wire strippers. I got one of the kits with the backwards transistors, lucky I got the message to flip them over. No hiccups here, works like a charm from the get go I also added a 240V/12V pump switch just in case I want to change. Currently planning to borrow the march from my big 3V setup for a 10L small batch system, and will eventually get a brown pump for it and leave the march with the main brewery.

Glad it worked out for you Sammus, the switch sounds interesting can you post pics when you have time.

cheers steve

 

[Sammus]

Glad it worked out for you Sammus, the switch sounds interesting can you post pics when you have time.

cheers steve

No worries, I'll post a couple photos later today. I used one of these DPDT switches. The common terminals are hooked up to the pump relay terminals on the controller, and the switch chooses between a 240VAC live wire connected to the march pump power output, or a positive 12VDC line connected to a 2-pin 12V output.

 

[markymoo]

wow, wouldn't want to accidentally press it when your 12v pump was connected.

sounds a bit dangerous for my liking.

 

[Sammus]

wow, wouldn't want to accidentally press it when your 12v pump was connected.

sounds a bit dangerous for my liking.

All that would happen is that the 12V pump would stop because it had no power. And there would 240VAC supplied to a 240V IEC socket (that a march pump, for example, might be plugged into). My switch doesn't force 240V across the 12V socket pins, and hence the arduino board, shield and back through the transformer...since that would completely fry everything in the box, regardless of what was connected.

 

[markymoo]

good point

thanks for the clarification.

 

[Sammus]

Here's a couple of pics. I just drew the wiring in paint from memory, pretty sure thatll do it, viewer discretion advised etc etc