Matho's controller

[matho]

Thanks Matho, I had thought that maybe the way to go was just unsure if the controller could handle 2 SSR's off one pin

Yeah the SSR takes about 7.5mA at 12v to trigger and the transistor driving the SSR are good for at least 50mA so firing 2 SSR's should be fine

cheers steve

 

[QldKev]

OK I have been playing with the braumiser last night and used this spreadsheet to get my PID settings right and I thought I would share it.

Just enter the volume and wattage of the element and then play with the PID setting until you get a good result.

A lot of the changes are easy to do and I'll address them later tonight, I want to put a couple of brews down and then start to make changes so expect changes to the code over the next couple of months.

brauduino PID.xls

cheers steve

I've had a play with the spreadsheet, but not sure what I'm looking for. I'm running
Kp 47
Ki 2
Kd 10

I find it gets to temp of, maybe a bit slow. But every a few minutes it creeps up a bit. So after 5min it will be 0.25 over, after 10min 0.5 etc.
I'm running 29L mash in water, and a 2,000w element.

I'm thinking of setting
Kp 40
Ki 3
Kd 15

Do you think I'm heading in the correct direction?

 

[matho]

the maximum output of the brauduino PID is 100 so if you set the P to say 50, P will be at 100% power until there is less than 2 degs of error so upping the P will make the heating faster but cause overshoot. The I setting is divided by 100 in the code so a setting of 1 is actually 0.01, I is there to remove the constant error you get with P only drives. It intergrates so it builds up over time the only time it reduces is when there is an over temp. This has caused me a few headaches to get right and it is the reason the PID only handles the last 5 degs of any temperature step in a bid to limit the amount I term intergrates. D acts like a brake if there is a large change in the reduction of the error then it reduces power, if the error goes up then it increases power.

I would try

kP = 60
kI = 1
kD = 50

p.s I'm going to change the I setting to give a finer adjustment.

 

[elpiratilla]

hello, I have a doubt.
The pot must be of 50l or you can use one of 33 l?
regards

 

[lael]

You can use whatever you want. The important thing is the ratio of the inner and the outer pot. Making sure that a) the inner holds enough grain for batches you want to do b) the outer pot holds enough water so that you can have enough water covering your heating element, as well as filling the inside pot 'malt pipe' and overflowing back into the outside. There is a spreadsheet that will hopefully help. PM me your email and I can send it to you.

 

[grimpanda]

Hi Matho & other contributors,

I've been following this project with keen interest for some time now and have reached the point where I want to delve deeper into the rabbit hole...

One thing I'm not clear on is whether there are any kits being produced, or PCB's for sale, or if I'll need to etch my own/source the parts from the list provided in Matho's ZIP file?

Cheers.

 

[MastersBrewery]

I think lael is still getting some done, send him a PM

 

[SkyNaras]

Hi,

or using a 20x4 instead of 16x4 LCD display will be the changes in the program in Danielxan board?
Maybe someone has a program for 20x4 LCD display?
Is the most recent version is 2.2?


p.s. sorry for my english

 

[grimpanda]

Hi guys,

Question for Matho or anyone else who might know the answer...

If i'm planning on using a 240v pump, do I still need a 2A 12v DC power supply, or will a smaller one (say 1.3A) suffice?

Cheers,
Gabe

 

[matho]

Hi guys,

Question for Matho or anyone else who might know the answer...

If i'm planning on using a 240v pump, do I still need a 2A 12v DC power supply, or will a smaller one (say 1.3A) suffice?

Cheers,
Gabe

Gabe, you could go as small as 500mA if your not running a DC pump

cheers steve

 

[grimpanda]

Thanks Steve.

I've got another one...

The wiring diagram in your PDF indicates that the live AC for a 240v pump setup is switched directly by the shield... is that the case, or have I misinterpreted?

In either case, is it possible to run 12v DC to the pump switching input terminal (on the shield), and then the output to a secondary SSR which switches 240AC to the pump?

I've read some users are having issues with EMI when using 240v pumps... would this solution perhaps help reduce this, or is it a separate issue?

Cheers, and thanks for sharing such a great project with the world!

 

[matho]

Thanks Steve.

I've got another one...

The wiring diagram in your PDF indicates that the live AC for a 240v pump setup is switched directly by the shield... is that the case, or have I misinterpreted?

Yes you can run 240v through the relay, I put enough clearance between the tracks to handle 240v

In either case, is it possible to run 12v DC to the pump switching input terminal (on the shield), and then the output to a secondary SSR which switches 240AC to the pump?

Yep that could be done too, using a SSR to switch the pump would probably work and most SSR have internal snubber circuits too.

I've read some users are having issues with EMI when using 240v pumps... would this solution perhaps help reduce this, or is it a separate issue?

It does have something to do with switching 240v, whether or not it a problem with the arduino or the LCD I haven't worked out yet.

Cheers, and thanks for sharing such a great project with the world!

 

[saviothecnic]

Video Primo Test Clone Finito 11 11 2013

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2JW1j1myiI&feature=youtu.be

 

[elpiratilla]

Some electronic understood I could make a diagram of how to connect a ssr 220v pump and in turn the PCB?.

Greetings and thanks.

By the way, very good job saviothecnic.

 

[QldKev]

Both wiring diagrams for 12vdc and 240vac pumps are in the "brauduino controller build1.pdf", the last 2 pages.

 

[elpiratilla]

Both wiring diagrams for 12vdc and 240vac pumps are in the "brauduino controller build1.pdf", the last 2 pages.

What I'm saying is connect to one ssr 220v pump to test if it can avoid the problem you have.

 

[saviothecnic]

Bene oggi ho quasi terminato

Inscatolare il tutto non è stato semplice vi posto qualche foto
Come vi ho accennato ho deciso di svincolare elettronica dal blocco meccanico.

Quindi ci sono dei connettori sull' elettronica e sulla parte meccanica

Well today I have almost finished: D

Canning the whole it was not easy I'll post some pictures
As I mentioned I have decided to release the mechanical lock electronics.

Then there are the connectors on the 'electronic and mechanical parts

Servirebbe un contenitore un pelo più grande circa 2 centimetri per ogni lato compreso altezza
Ma alla fine sono riuscito a farci entrare tutto

Certo appena qualcuno risucira a implementarci una tastiera piatta key 4x4
il costo e sopratutto ingombro avra un notevole miglioria ma gia cosi non è niente male

Se in questa settimana riesco a finire tutto a breve vi postero il video del test di cotta.

Would need a larger container a hair about 2 inches on each side including height
But in the end I managed to get us all: D

Of course, as soon as someone risucira to implementarci a flat keyboard key 4x4
the cost and size will have a significant improvement especially
but already so it is not bad: D

If this week I can finish everything you posterolateral short video of the test firing.

 

[elpiratilla]

saviothecnic, I have been following your work on the arduino forum, and I liked it.
Very good job.

 

[aamcle]

Can you please post a link to a post that will tell me how load Mathos arduino programming.


Atb. Aamcle

 

[djar007]

Are you using a pc or a mac?

 

[aamcle]

I'll be using a PC.


Aamcle

 

[djar007]

Download the program from Arduino. Load it and create new file. Cut and paste Mathos code to it. Verify it. Upload it. Then it's on there. Just need the usb cable to plug into your pc.

 

[lael]

You will need to copy some libraries to your arduino codebase.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72371-mathos-brauduino-odd-behaviour/#entry1033956 has the ones you need in a zip file - unzip and copy across to the libraries folder inside your arduino folder.

 

[adom]

Revision 2 of PCBs Birraduino, to solve a serious problem due to the SPI libraries, that prevent the full use of the D10 as an output pin instead of SS.
Adding polarity selection BackLigjt

Hi,
where can i find list of components for this sheet please?

thx
Andrej

 

[jwollmer]

This is really a great forum, I have ordered my kit and as I am in in the US I am looking at a 220v chugger pump. I have seen in the wiring diagrams that the board can handle switching of this. As I do not have electronics background I just want to be sure the board can handle the switching of the 220v pump with our a SSR.

Thanks

 

[pat_00]

I am setting up a recirc biab type setup with mathos controller as the brains. The urn I plan on using has a 3.6kw element, do I need to upgrade the 25a SSR?

Tried searching for this info on here, but no luck.

 

[TheWiggman]

I am setting up a recirc biab type setup with mathos controller as the brains. The urn I plan on using has a 3.6kw element, do I need to upgrade the 25a SSR?

Tried searching for this info on here, but no luck.

I used a 25A SSD on my system drawing only 10A, and it didn't have appropriate cooling (ie no heat sink) and it melted. Still worked though. Strictly speaking the 3.6 kW element will only draw 15A, but if you're yet to buy one spend $2 more and get a 40A. On eBay the 25A units are about $3.70 delivered, the 40A about $5.50 (China of course).
The higher the rating the cooler they run, so I hear.

 

[livetoride]

So even for this controller build a 40A SSR is not overkill? I have one left over from a build I did for my reflux still which I was hopeing to use!

 

[pat_00]

Thing is, I already have a 25a ssr.

I wonder if I'd get away with it if I used a larger heatsink?

 

[livetoride]

Not even a larger one jist one appropriate for the current drawn. This page might be a overkill in the reading department but gives you an idea of what you need! Just use it and if it dies buy a new one