Matho's controller

[matho]

OK,
I have bought some BC547 to try out and they work fine, because the 2N2222a can have different pinouts I would recommend using the BC547, they have a little less current handling but it will work fine.

(real_beer had me worried when he said that on his board the buzzer was sounding and pump was on and he used BC547, I thought I had miss read the datasheet)

cheers steve

 

[tynian]

OK,
I have bought some BC547 to try out and they work fine, because the 2N2222a can have different pinouts I would recommend using the BC547, they have a little less current handling but it will work fine.

(real_beer had me worried when he said that on his board the buzzer was sounding and pump was on and he used BC547, I thought I had miss read the datasheet)

cheers steve

Thanks Steve.

I have changed the transistors around and it is all good.

I still have an amazing temp display of over 4000 degrees. I assume this is cause I have not wired up the temp probe yet.

I have been able to go through menus etc and even put it in manual mode and managed to get the pups led to light up. I just have to figure out how to drive this thing properly now.

I am also assuming I could not get the heater led to light up because it was thinking the temp was already way over the set point.


Cheers
Rob

 

[matho]

Thanks Steve.

I have changed the transistors around and it is all good.

I still have an amazing temp display of over 4000 degrees. I assume this is cause I have not wired up the temp probe yet.

I have been able to go through menus etc and even put it in manual mode and managed to get the pups led to light up. I just have to figure out how to drive this thing properly now.

I am also assuming I could not get the heater led to light up because it was thinking the temp was already way over the set point.


Cheers
Rob

yeah mate without the DS18b20 connected you get a reading of over 4000 degc so it looks like all is well, and yes you won't be able to get the heater to turn on with a temperature over 4000 degs

well done, it's quite simple to get the boards made up isn't it.

cheers steve

 

[tynian]

yeah mate without the DS18b20 connected you get a reading of over 4000 degc so it looks like all is well, and yes you won't be able to get the heater to turn on with a temperature over 4000 degs

well done, it's quite simple to get the boards made up isn't it.

cheers steve

Yeah it is. I have loved every minute of it.

I can't wait to get the hardware and plumbing done now. I have cut the 19l pot up already for the malt pipe and am in the process of sorting the filters.

This has been so much fun - thanks Steve.

For the guys who were after boards I am hoping to get to auspost tomorrow to get an idea of postage costs so I can send final pricing an payment info through.

Apologies for the delay, but I have not been able to get there til now.

Cheers
Rob

 

[bigbanko]

Yeah it is. I have loved every minute of it.

I can't wait to get the hardware and plumbing done now. I have cut the 19l pot up already for the malt pipe and am in the process of sorting the filters.

This has been so much fun - thanks Steve.

For the guys who were after boards I am hoping to get to auspost tomorrow to get an idea of postage costs so I can send final pricing an payment info through.

Apologies for the delay, but I have not been able to get there til now.

Cheers
Rob

Hi
I have just stumbled upon this wonderfull thread. I have been considering a Braumiester but the cost a little prohibitive.

Are the PCB's and Bonjuino's or kits still available to purchase from someone, as I would be very interested.

Cheers

 

[tynian]

Hi
I have just stumbled upon this wonderfull thread. I have been considering a Braumiester but the cost a little prohibitive.

Are the PCB's and Bonjuino's or kits still available to purchase from someone, as I would be very interested.

Cheers

Hi,

Sorry but all the boards I have are spoken for at this point. If anyone pulls out I will let you know.

If you are really keen I can vouch for how easy it was to put it all together and send and order off for the board builds.

Cheers
Rob

 

[bigbanko]

Hi,

Sorry but all the boards I have are spoken for at this point. If anyone pulls out I will let you know.

If you are really keen I can vouch for how easy it was to put it all together and send and order off for the board builds.

Cheers
Rob

Where can you have the boards made? I wouldn't mine buying 10 boards and sharing. Also is there a design file as such for the board.

Thanks.

 

[bonj]

Where can you have the boards made? I wouldn't mine buying 10 boards and sharing. Also is there a design file as such for the board.

Thanks.

Matho has made the design files and code available. They require the eagle PCB design software and the arduino environment respectively. If you have trouble with the eagle software, I'm happy to make the gerber files for you, for submission to the seeedstudio fusion PCB service (they manufacture the boards): http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pc...vice-p-835.html

10 boards will cost you around USD$35 delivered, depending on the exchange rate. They require you to edit the eagle source files to add your order number to the silkscreen layer and export the files to the gerber format which they use. If you're serious about having them made, I'm able to add your order number for you and email you the zipfile in the format required. (Basically that will allow you to have them made without messing around with new software if you haven't used it before). Then you just email them the zipfile as instructed in the link above and around 3 weeks later, you get 10 PCBs in the post

In addition to the brauduino board, you will need a standard form factor arduino or clone. I have previously made up some arduino clone kits (I called them bonjuinos) with the brauduino code pre-flashed but I'm not in the financial situation to do that at the moment. A standard arduino will work just fine but you'll need to flash the code yourself (dead easy).

 

[bigbanko]

Matho has made the design files and code available. They require the eagle PCB design software and the arduino environment respectively. If you have trouble with the eagle software, I'm happy to make the gerber files for you, for submission to the seeedstudio fusion PCB service (they manufacture the boards): http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/fusion-pc...vice-p-835.html

10 boards will cost you around USD$35 delivered, depending on the exchange rate. They require you to edit the eagle source files to add your order number to the silkscreen layer and export the files to the gerber format which they use. If you're serious about having them made, I'm able to add your order number for you and email you the zipfile in the format required. (Basically that will allow you to have them made without messing around with new software if you haven't used it before). Then you just email them the zipfile as instructed in the link above and around 3 weeks later, you get 10 PCBs in the post

In addition to the brauduino board, you will need a standard form factor arduino or clone. I have previously made up some arduino clone kits (I called them bonjuinos) with the brauduino code pre-flashed but I'm not in the financial situation to do that at the moment. A standard arduino will work just fine but you'll need to flash the code yourself (dead easy).

Hi Bonj

Thank you for your offer of help. I will take you up on the offer to supply me the files ready to send.
I will pm you my email address to send the files to.

I am really keen to get this project on the go. I am a sheet metal worker/Boilermaker by trade and not a lot of electronics experience, although I am pretty savy with computers.

Where would be the best place to obtain the arduino board, software, hardware etc. Also are there tutorials on flashing them.

Once again many thanks for your help.

I will make the spare boards available to other members when they arrive.

 

[tynian]

Hi Bonj

Thank you for your offer of help. I will take you up on the offer to supply me the files ready to send.
I will pm you my email address to send the files to.

I am really keen to get this project on the go. I am a sheet metal worker/Boilermaker by trade and not a lot of electronics experience, although I am pretty savy with computers.

Where would be the best place to obtain the arduino board, software, hardware etc. Also are there tutorials on flashing them.

Once again many thanks for your help.

I will make the spare boards available to other members when they arrive.

Bigbanko.

I have still got 1 board left after the last count. If you are still up for one I am happy for you to have it. Just let me know.

Cheers
Rob

 

[bigbanko]

Bigbanko.

I have still got 1 board left after the last count. If you are still up for one I am happy for you to have it. Just let me know.

Cheers
Rob

Thanks Rob

I placed an order for 10 boards last night so I may have a few spares now.

Cheers.

PS. Can you tell me where is the best place to obtain the LCD panel and needed components.

 

[Davethebrewer]

Hi bigbanko
Rob is sending me a board and I too have too round up the parts, have not looked into it too much yet.Mathos put together a PDF with the build parts in it.
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/inde...st&id=54981
CheersDave

 

[keifer33]

Keen on a board when someone gets one free. Must get going on this stuff after putting it off.

 

[luke_j]

In addition to the brauduino board, you will need a standard form factor arduino or clone. I have previously made up some arduino clone kits (I called them bonjuinos) with the brauduino code pre-flashed but I'm not in the financial situation to do that at the moment. A standard arduino will work just fine but you'll need to flash the code yourself (dead easy).

Bonj,

Pardon my ignorance, but is this the sort of thing I should get? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arduino-UNO-R3-...1#ht_992wt_1271

 

[bonj]

Bonj,

Pardon my ignorance, but is this the sort of thing I should get? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arduino-UNO-R3-...1#ht_992wt_1271

Yes, that will do the job nicely. You will have to install the arduino IDE from http://www.arduino.cc/ and use it to upload matho's code (https://github.com/mathoaus/braumiser-controller/blob/master/brauduino2.ino).

 

[luke_j]

Awesome, cheers.

 

[tynian]

Hi Guys,

I have one more trouble shooting question i need to ask.

Everything seems to be working perfectly except for the heater.

I have put it into manual mode and can see the pump led come on when i press the pump button and measuring across the pinouts shows 12v coming through, perfect.

The heater show no LED and some strange readings through the power plug. No matter which way I measure (whether the button for H has been pressed or not) measuring the output in the plug shows 244V but I cant seem to power anything off it.

What should I be looking for, what should I be testing?

Cheers
Rob

 

[matho]

Ok with a ssr you are always going to get voltage across the output so it is not an indication, the led lighting up on the ssr or 12v across the heater output is a good indication. Secondly it takes a little while for the pid to ramp up the first time the heater button is pressed, it can be a bit confusing that when you push the button and the led does not light up straight away. Before you try and fault find, set the temp to about 60 and push the heat button once and wait for about 30 sec to 1 min and see if the led comes on. If it doesn't work then I would look at the heater LED first

Cheers steve

 

[tynian]

Ok with a ssr you are always going to get voltage across the output so it is not an indication, the led lighting up on the ssr or 12v across the heater output is a good indication. Secondly it takes a little while for the pid to ramp up the first time the heater button is pressed, it can be a bit confusing that when you push the button and the led does not light up straight away. Before you try and fault find, set the temp to about 60 and push the heat button once and wait for about 30 sec to 1 min and see if the led comes on. If it doesn't work then I would look at the heater LED first

Cheers steve

Thanks Steve.

That makes sense now.

Will go and check it out.

Cheers
Rob

 

[tynian]

Hey Steve,

Well I tried giving it some time, but still no good. No LED. Not really sure which bits I should measure to find the fault. I checked voltage on the LED at the board and it reads only around 1volt no matter what I do with the heater button.

Any ideas? Not quite sure what to test first to figure this out. should I measure the voltage across the heater screw in terminals?

Cheers
Rob