Matho's controller

[matho]

Hey notung,

you are right about the temperature, just over 4000 degs means that the ds18b20 is not connected. Turning it off should not damage the sheild or the arduino, I would check to see if the arduino is plugged into the sheild correctly and all the pins are in their right place and I would check the contrast pot as well. If you can post a picture of the sheild then I can see if there has been any mistakes made in putting it together. If all else fails then you can post it back to me and I will check it out for you.

cheers steve

 

[notung]

Thanks matho for the advice. I'll re-check the connections on the bonjuino / shield tonight and take some pictures at the same time. I actually soldered the bonjuino down into the headers because the connection wasn't firm. I'm hoping I don't live to regret this. Let you know how I go. Thanks again.

 

[saviothecnic]

I don't have the usb programming cable.

Usually on the Arduino Uno R3 cable to program is a commercially available USB cable Used for printer cables are not special but common USB cables
Good idea to send photos to see if everything is connected.

 

[saviothecnic]

Public the final version of the PCB redesigned in a single layer.
It requires a redefinition of the pin-ot to work.

Pin-Out V14

// define pinout
// sensor and lcd
OneWire ds(8);
LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7);

// push buttons
const char Button_prev = A0;
const char Button_nxt = A1;
const char Button_up = A2;
const char Button_dn = A3;

// outputs
const int Pump = 9;
const int Buzz = 10;
const int Heat = 11;

 

[saviothecnic]

Revision with open collector outputs, and software controlled backlight.

Pin Out V15

// define pinout
// sensor and lcd
OneWire ds(12);
LiquidCrystal lcd(2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7);

// push buttons
const char Button_prev = A0;
const char Button_nxt = A1;
const char Button_up = A2;
const char Button_dn = A3;

// outputs
const int Pump = 9;
const int Buzz = 10;
const int Heat = 11;
// Pin Illuminazione LCD 8




In Allegato Menu ITA

View attachment BrauduinoItaly2v2FirmwarePCB_DanielXan.zip

 

[notung]

Thanks matho for the advice. I'll re-check the connections on the bonjuino / shield tonight and take some pictures at the same time. I actually soldered the bonjuino down into the headers because the connection wasn't firm. I'm hoping I don't live to regret this. Let you know how I go. Thanks again.

Here was the cause of the problem I described with the display blank except for a top row full of squares. The chip had come loose out from the bonjuino.
Securing that back in there allowed the controller to boot normally again.

I'm still troubleshooting the cause of temp sensor error. It is the MB-SM17116 device which came with a ds18b20 already mounted into the stainless probe. I'm hoping the 4095degC reading is a result of one or two bad solders on the PCB, rather than a dud device. I have re-made all connections between MB-SM17116 and the screw terminals on the shield. I'll post some close ups of the bonjuino and shield next.

 

[notung]

Here are some photos of the braumiser shield as I've put it together. This has been my first electronics project, which may be obvious looking at the workmanship but I am nevertheless very happy so far. Except I have this pesky issue with the temp sensor connection. I have gone over all the wiring between the MB-SM17116 probe fitting and the screw terminals on the shield very thoroughly so I'd be surprised if that were the problem.

Can anyone spot a bad solder or something else which could be causing a problem for the temp sensor? Failing that I suppose that the DS12B80 device could be stuffed or improperly hooked up by the manufacturer...?

Thanks everyone for the advice and inspiration!

Brew moth controller front, with lcd displaying temp reading of 4095degC. Fascia panel printed by Superoo. Thanks again mate, I love it.

Braumiser shield with bonjuino.

Here is the shield with the bonjuino removed. Note that this is an old photo of the wiring to temp sensor screw terminals. The photo above shows the updated wiring with insulation from 3 core cable being wired into the + terminal as well.

Top of shield visible, including lcd.

Bottom of shield

 

[MastersBrewery]

I could be wrong here, I was looking at the gallery earlier. The bottom picture bottom of the board second from the left looks in that shot like it may be a cold joint, check and see if any others look similar.

 

[Sam England]

Good looking job Notung. I have the same temp pop up intermittently on my rig and if I drop it into manual mode and then out again it fixes the problem. It's only ever on start up and I have no idea why this fixes the problem. I use the sureelectonics pre-made probe, but that shouldn't matter either.
Cheers,
BB

 

[breakbeer]

I get the same temp display of 4095deg but only if the temp probe is not connected to the box. As soon as I plug it in the screen displays the correct temp

 

[notung]

I could be wrong here, I was looking at the gallery earlier. The bottom picture bottom of the board second from the left looks in that shot like it may be a cold joint, check and see if any others look similar.

Ooh thanks for the reply. I will check that out and report back!

Good looking job Notung. I have the same temp pop up intermittently on my rig and if I drop it into manual mode and then out again it fixes the problem. It's only ever on start up and I have no idea why this fixes the problem. I use the sureelectonics pre-made probe, but that shouldn't matter either.
Cheers,
BB

Interesting... I must say I haven't tried popping it into manual mode at all. If it's as simple as that... :kooi:

I get the same temp display of 4095deg but only if the temp probe is not connected to the box. As soon as I plug it in the screen displays the correct temp

My wiring definitely all seems connected but have going over the joins painstakingly to make sure.

 

[matho]

that 3rd photo is that the temp probe directly wired to the terminal? If it is then you might have reversed the polarity on the MB-SM17116, I found the data sheet and it says the brown or red is GND, green or blue is data and yellow or gray is VCC. everything else looks fine. If you have the original DS18b20 that came with the kit then wire it in to the terminal with the flat part of the ds18b20 facing up.

cheers steve

 

[matho]

like this



cheers steve

 

[djar007]

As matho said. It's the way it's wired in. Some of those Solder joints look like they may be cold jointed . but if you tested for continuity then all good. Regards dave.

 

[notung]

that 3rd photo is that the temp probe directly wired to the terminal? If it is then you might have reversed the polarity on the MB-SM17116, I found the data sheet and it says the brown or red is GND, green or blue is data and yellow or gray is VCC. everything else looks fine. If you have the original DS18b20 that came with the kit then wire it in to the terminal with the flat part of the ds18b20 facing up.

cheers steve

That was it, thanks for picking it up. I had the black wire & insulation (GND) wired into + and the red wire (VCC) connected to -. They were meant to be the other way round! Now hooked up correctly I get a temp reading of 85 degrees, which indicated sensor is connected but improperly wired up. Sounds like this may be due to me reversing the polarity and stuffing the ds18b20 device. I assume it's buggered. :blush:

I've got it working.

I think the ds18b20 must not have reverse polarity protection, I tried 2 new ones but both had been tried backwards. :unsure:

I pulled it out and shoved in another new one and it's working. Lucky they are only about $1 each.

edit:
Anyone using these probes?

I am using one of those probes and seem to have also reversed the polarity on mine. I've got a spare little ds18b20 from the braumiser kit. I'll try ripping/cutting the bricked one out from the probe and wire the replacement up. If that fails I'll just buy a replacement probe for ~$10.

 

[wb2102]

Hi Guy's,

I've been building my controller for a number on months now with my limited time, and for the most part it is working fantastically.
Thank you to Steve for his time an efforts that have gone into the design, testing, and development of these controllers. Its a serious amount of work and without this I may have only settled for BIAB or gone down the Auberins PID path with something nowhere near as good as the Brauduino. My controller will eventually automate a Crown urn as a recirculating BIAB rig (Still working on the recirculating part) when I can sort though this final problem.

However I have an issue with mine on the pump circuit which is causing the brown pump to run continually. Currently I've got a PC fan rigged up to the output right now to see what is happening and it continually has a 12V supply to it.
When I power the unit up I can hear a click from the 12V Relay( I'm using an Omron G5SB-14) and from there it stay's open and running. I've checked the wiring diagram's and found that there are 2 different version for brown pump wiring into the shield. One in the manual and the other was on a post that Steve did originally. Both yield the same result for me. Doesn't matter if it's in Manual Mode or Auto mode. I've even dumped a different sketch into the Arduino to check if something was triggering the pump to run in the code... No difference. My gut tells me that it's something either in the 12V relay circuit or my wiring up which is causing it to continually run, but I can see it for the life of me. Have gone through the wiring with my multi meter but it all checks out as it should from the way I'm reading it.

My Shield is a V2.0 (No RF suppressor on this version of shield).
Only other difference in mine is that I'm running a 20X4 LCD which has the same pin out as the 16X2, and works perfectly so I'm thinking it's unlikely to be this.

If anyone has any thoughts/ suggestions on what I might have stuffed up, it would be appreciated.

Cheers

Warren

 

[djar007]

So it only starts once the relay kicks it on? Or is it on all the time?

 

[matho]

it sounds like the transistor is around the wrong way, the original 2n2222a have different pin outs and have caused a few headaches. It is fairly tricky to remove the transistors without damaging the board, I smash the black part and remove one leg at a time. If you want to post it to me I can fix it for you, just PM me.

cheers steve

 

[wb2102]

It's on all the time. As soon as I power up the unit... Click and away it goes.

 

[wb2102]

Hi Steve,

The original 2n2222a's got me because the buzzer was continually sounding continually, and I figured out that and changed to the BC547's. I stuffed a pad doing the removal due to lack of practice an a little impatience but bridged it to the resistor after studying the circuit board layout. Been a long time since my TAFE day's doing these things.

The Pump LED Flicks on and off in both modes so I think the transistor is working. :unsure:

Anything else it could be?