Matho's controller

[QldKev]

So now that there is a fair number of brauduino's out there ( thanks lael) I would like brewers feed back on the code for the brauduino. If there is a common change requested then I might be able to improve it. I hope the controllers are going well.

cheers steve

I've put my wish list here

edit: Though it may be better kept in this thread

Steve, I find it a great bit of kit and makes brewing easy. I love how easy the interface is compared to my Auber programmable pid.

Controller
Ability to install a louder alarm. I cannot hear mine from my office when brewing. Also with a loud alarm, a volume knob/pot would be great so I could turn it down if I'm in the area.
A wifi / network enabled version, that you can log onto from the network and monitor the progress.
Maybe a 20 x 4 display.

Software
Have a constant declared for BoilStartTemp (95c is a bit cool for me, I use 98c)
Have a constant declared for MaxPumpTemp (ie when to stop the pump, I run a Kaixin and don't take it past 80c)
Have a pause_pump function triggered by Button_next. As per pause_stage but pump only.
Do the CRC check on the temperature read

 

[lael]

Steve - thank you - the system is amazing! An absolute gem to brew on.

Ideas for code improvements - I've thought of a few more substantial changes that would be pure awesome - touch screens, auto hopping, wireless mash schedule delivery from a smartphone app... not necessarily

+1 to djar's idea - I was thinking this the other day when I was going through mashing.

Here is some brainstorming on other ideas:
- option for countdown to start (already available) - in auto setup could ask - set a countdown? y/n and then set amt in mins.
- to automatically switch to manual mode at the end of the cycle - but I like this cause I use the pump to whirlpool, I'm not sure if it would be a common desire.
- show a count down during the pump break
- make temp ranges 'accelerate' when changing - eg: if it has been held for 2 seconds, start jumping by 0.5C, if 4 seconds, start jumping 1C
- numbers cycle through ie - if you hit the upper range, it goes to zero and vice versa (good for when you want to get to 100 and temp is currently 35 or so)

- store stats about the system: eg: for last auto brew: ramp rates/times from stage to stage, total brew time from start to end of boil.

I've been thinking about using it for other things as well:
- a sous vide mode - can set temp, has a pump break every 15 mins, but otherwise pump stays on - same as manual, can hit the pump button to turn it off/on manually. No timer.
- apple cider pasteurisation - idea came from http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-pics-193295/. I figure it would be safer in the brau and can put a lid on it and have it set to a precise temp.

So - would either be a set temp for a set number of mins and then beeps at you to remove the cider, then push the button to start the timer for the next batch. or... this is more interesting... not sure if it is possible - but was thinking have the brau get to temp, swap the probe for one that goes inside an unsealed bottle full of water at the same initial temp as those being pasteurised, placed in with the batch being pasteurised, and then have it beep completion when it hits the required/targeted pasteurisation temp.

ok - those are some ideas

 

[MastersBrewery]

I know most of these systems have been setup for single batches or smaller, the problem with going to larger volumes being implementing a second element solely for the boil, as there are spare pins available I take it this would not be too hard to implement in software.

 

[Sam England]

@ Lael - great idea with the cider. I'm already using the unit as a sous vide, but hadn't thought about bottling early, allow to carb and then pasteurising. Also agree with the quick temp adjust based on button hold time.

@ MastersBrewery - I was going to do exactly the same thing for partigyle or sequential brewing, but ended up going down the path of a simpler unit dedicated to sous vide and the lower gravity gyle. This one is a 10A system only so I don't have to run it outside if I'm sous viding. I actually plan to lift the malt pipe from one unit to the other on brew day to circulate my sparge water through the mash with the pump. I haven't cut the bottom out of my pot like the braumeister which allows me to do this.

@ Matho - I'm not sure if you've put the fix in the final code or not yet, but I still get the odd high temp (can't remember the temp 80 or 90 ish degrees??) that starts the timer on the next mash step before it's actually reached temp. I've just been slack in updating the code myself as I've got Win8 at home which doesn't talk to Arduino yet.
Agree with QldKev about adding the extra variables to the setup menu. I'm always adjusting up to 100deg on my rig.

No real deal breakers and the repeatability of my beer has improved 10 fold. Definitely worth the time and effort building one of these hence why I've got another two on the way from Lael to go with the three I bought from Matho for mates rigs. Thanks again for your efforts Matho.

Cheers,
BB

 

[lael]

. I actually plan to lift the malt pipe from one unit to the other on brew day to circulate my sparge water through the mash with the pump. I haven't cut the bottom out of my pot like the braumeister which allows me to do this.

So you are running two units at the same time?

@ masters - I just upgraded mine to 50L and use an OTS element for the boil - no temp control required... which I would strongly recommend as simple and effective. I think I read about someone securing theirs to the side of the pot somehow during their boil, which i need to look into.
http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/72377-laels-braumiser-build/#entry1088612

 

[Sam England]

Lael, yeah I use one for a HLT to get sparge water to temp while the other one is mashing. I then lift the malt pipe, let it drain and then transfer it across to the "sparge meister'' for a recirculated sparge while the main pot is coming to the boil. I then pump from one to the other for a full volume boil. An extra pot to wash out but it saves a bit of time and seems to be helping with efficiency. I haven't done it yet, but I plan to do parti-gyle brews with the extended malt pipe by making a high SG first gyle, transfer to the second to do a lower SG second brew with a different hopping regime. According to some of the online calculators around this should be possible without adding any extra grain, but I could always add extra grain and repeat the mash in the second unit if required. My brewing time is limited with three rug rats, so any time I can save on brew day (or brew night after work) is a bonus.
Cheers,
BB

 

[shmang]

@ Matho - I'm not sure if you've put the fix in the final code or not yet, but I still get the odd high temp (can't remember the temp 80 or 90 ish degrees??) that starts the timer on the next mash step before it's actually reached temp. I've just been slack in updating the code myself as I've got Win8 at home which doesn't talk to Arduino yet.

Cheers,
BB

:icon_offtopic:
I'm running Windows 8 and have no issues with programming or serial comms with arduino

Edit: Correct spelling helps

 

[Sam England]

:icon_offtopic:
I'm running Windows 8 and have no issues with programming or serial comms with arduino

Still OT!!
Any tips?? Every forum I've read, some have got it to work and others (like me) do the same thing and struggle. Even the Arduino site doesn't recommend Win8 yet. At the moment it's only a minor issue that I can work around by pausing and using the manual mode and then going back to auto once the temps are reached. I am also happy to admit that my IT skills fall somewhere between adequate and knowing enough to be dangerous which is probably my issue. Tempted to install a second OS but that's sounding like work after a few too many brews tonight. I'm building two more in the next few weeks so I'll either use a mates PC with XP to upload or I'll give Win8 another crack and waste a few more hours of my life!!.

 

[lael]

Sorry, I don't know how to fix the arduino issue. But, sounds like you need to post photos of your rigs

Is one of >10amp?

 

[Sam England]

Lael, some old photos of the 3kW unit are in my profile gallery, but I hadn't built the second rig at that point. The second unit only has a 2kW element in it so I can run it inside as a sous vide. The control box is built into the trolley for the main unit and the secondary unit is in a portable box.

 

[lael]

Hey Blue - I do know your rig! Still don't understand how your malt pipe extension works lol.

 

[Sam England]

Lael, it's just a second bigW pot pushed inside the first to pick up about an extra 100mm of malt pipe height. I think I can get just under 10kg in there, but haven't tried or had the need yet to max it out. The bottom of the extension is cut totally off probably in a similar way to the braumeister clone versions. I use the same bolt holes that support my top plate in the short malt pipe to bolt the extension to it. The extension is actually really handy on my setup to use as a funnel/guide for the malt during mash in as it brings the top edge above the top of the pot.
Cheers,
BB

 

[lael]

Ahhhhhh... All makes sense now! Actually going to pick up a pot now to extend my malt pipe too. Can't wait! Should allow some nice high gravity beers

 

[MastersBrewery]

Ahhhhhh... All makes sense now! Actually going to pick up a pot now to extend my malt pipe too. Can't wait! Should allow some nice high gravity beers

so to get this right your going to extend the big malt pipe right

 

[shmang]

Still OT!!
Any tips?? Every forum I've read, some have got it to work and others (like me) do the same thing and struggle. Even the Arduino site doesn't recommend Win8 yet. At the moment it's only a minor issue that I can work around by pausing and using the manual mode and then going back to auto once the temps are reached. I am also happy to admit that my IT skills fall somewhere between adequate and knowing enough to be dangerous which is probably my issue. Tempted to install a second OS but that's sounding like work after a few too many brews tonight. I'm building two more in the next few weeks so I'll either use a mates PC with XP to upload or I'll give Win8 another crack and waste a few more hours of my life!!.

I didn't do anything fancy mate.
Downloaded version 1.0.5, saved it in program files (x86). Put a shortcut on the desktop and off it went.
It is worth replacing the rxtxSerial.dll file. It causes issues with opening the software and menu's etc.
Here is the updated RxTx file

 

[lael]

Yeah I need to check the spreadsheet, but 10.8kg was stretching it, and I want to be able to do 1.070 and higher, or at least 1.050 and increase the fluidity. At some point though the volume of water required for the malt pipe will be more than the pot can actually hold during a pump rest ( cause the grain displaces a fair amount of fluid). I'll work it out before I start cutting

The pots seem to have straight sides, so the plan is to cut off the bottom of the new one and slide/force it in the top of the old one with some bolts to hold it together. Friction should seal it.

Anyone know how far from the edge of the pot the hole/bolt needs to be to be structurally sound? It needs to be able to take the weight of appx. 16kg of grain + water

 

[Sam England]

Cheers for the tip Shmang. I'll see if that helps fix the problem.

Lael, you'll be surprised at the taper on the pots. A pot in a pot only gets you an extra 100mm with them pushed together. I've bolted through in four places with 6mm bolts and washers inside and out and it easily lifts the full pipe. I think mine are about 20mm down from the top rim, but that was only chosen based on the bolt heads supporting the top plate when mashing. One of my mates rigs uses the same malt pipe setup as me and I believe he's put a strip of silicone map around the top pot before pushing it into the bottom one. I think he picked up closer to 200mm this way. I was always a bit concerned about the depth of the grain bed, but I don't think he's had any major efficiency drops if he's making a standard gravity beer and still holds some water back for sparging. He's using one of the Craftbrewer 70L pots as his outer vessel so he can do double batches.

 

[breakbeer]

+ 1 for the Sous Vide idea

I should probably update my code to the latest version as most of the ideas I'd put forward have already been addressed

Edit: I'd also like to Thank Steve for putting this out there & for all the help he's given me & others to get them working.
The Brauduino is my favourite bit of brewing equipment, absolutely love it. Quite a few brewers have seen mine in operation & the next day bought the kit

 

[Edak]

Glenn,
When are you going to come see my bad boy in action? I brewed a dunkelweizen today (I called it Schlam Dunkel) and I hit 83.9 mash efficiency and 76.8 overall, so it's going rather well I'd say... Also managed to give the whole back deck and rails a coat of new paint too, so it's very much hands off and worry free at the moment...

 

[QldKev]

I've put my wish list here

edit: Though it may be better kept in this thread

Steve, I find it a great bit of kit and makes brewing easy. I love how easy the interface is compared to my Auber programmable pid.

Controller
Ability to install a louder alarm. I cannot hear mine from my office when brewing. Also with a loud alarm, a volume knob/pot would be great so I could turn it down if I'm in the area.
A wifi / network enabled version, that you can log onto from the network and monitor the progress.
Maybe a 20 x 4 display.

Software
Have a constant declared for BoilStartTemp (95c is a bit cool for me, I use 98c)
Have a constant declared for MaxPumpTemp (ie when to stop the pump, I run a Kaixin and don't take it past 80c)
Have a pause_pump function triggered by Button_next. As per pause_stage but pump only.
Do the CRC check on the temperature read

Just to add to above, it would be nice if the controller held the temperature when the strike water is ready "add grain" and also when you get to mash out and it says to "remove grain".