Mash Tun Q

[Pennywise]

Just got all the gear to get my esky mash tun going and whilst cutting the slots in the copper pipe I though f**k this **** and grabbed my drill and drilled holes in the underside rather than cutting slots. Just thought before I go any furthur I'd seek opinions on wether this method would be better, the same or worse than cutting slots in the manifold as I'd rather put the work in now if it means better or more importantly, constant efficiency. Pic below is how I'd planned on doing it

As you can see I only cut 2 slots before I cracked it , yes I have little patience for tedious jobs

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

I cant see any reason why it wont work...


But then again I had a terrible time with a slotted manifold and went straight to a false bottom..

 

[dicko]

Just got all the gear to get my esky mash tun going and whilst cutting the slots in the copper pipe I though f**k this **** and grabbed my drill and drilled holes in the underside rather than cutting slots. Just thought before I go any furthur I'd seek opinions on wether this method would be better, the same or worse than cutting slots in the manifold as I'd rather put the work in now if it means better or more importantly, constant efficiency. Pic below is how I'd planned on doing it

As you can see I only cut 2 slots before I cracked it , yes I have little patience for tedious jobs

Hi Hb 79
Holes will be fine. All the filtering is done by the grain bed.
The most important thing is that the holes are facing the bottom of the tun and that the manifold itself is designed so as not to allow wort channelling down the smooth sides of the tun/esky.
When I made mine I followed J G Palmers instructions as for the shape.
You will find this info in his book or on line in "How to Brew".
Cheers

 

[manticle]

I wondered the same thing when I was making my first attempt. I can't imagine why it wouldn't work although I found drilling no less painful than dremelling.

 

[Pennywise]

The most important thing is that the holes are facing the bottom of the tun and that the manifold itself is designed so as not to allow wort channelling down the smooth sides of the tun/esky.
When I made mine I followed J G Palmers instructions as for the shape.
You will find this info in his book or on line in "How to Brew".
Cheers

I didn't even bother looking a PJ's book as I sorta knew what I was going to do. Thus, didn't come across the chanelling down the sides bit (just goes to show you think you know, but you really don't no matter how much you read hey), I'll have to shorten some bits in that case but thats no hassle, even if I have to cut some more as for some stupid reason I bought 2 meters of copper thinking that'd just fit in a 25L esky , yes I'm also useless at guestimating. At least if I need to make another one I'll have enough hey :lol:

Manticle, it seems it's just as painful either way, just broke my 3rd (and last one left small enough) drill bit. I will persist with it this way though as for some reason I just feel better about it this way.

Thanks guys, I'm so excited about using this tun I may even get up early tomorrow and get it sorted for a brew some time in the day.

 

[Spartan 117]

Stainless steel braid all the way in my opinion, they're cheap, easy to cut, easy to install and easy to clean.

just my 2c

Aaron

 

[Pennywise]

I did think of that as I saw a "how to do" thing by Kevnlis on Oliver & Geoffs site using that exact method but chose to go the other road as I have read about efficiency probs using that method, wether justified or not I don't know.

 

[Spartan 117]

I did think of that as I saw a "how to do" thing by Kevnlis on Oliver & Geoffs site using that exact method but chose to go the other road as I have read about efficiency probs using that method, wether justified or not I don't know.

I used it as when I started brewing and wanted to go AG cash was a bit tight so opted for the braid, seriously though I've never had any issues with it, as far as efficincy goes I'm not sure, so long as the beer tastes good I'm not complaining.

Aaron

 

[quadbox]

Am I correct in thinking that channelling's only really a problem if you're fly-sparging?

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

SSHHH Teddybear.......

 

[dicko]

Am I correct in thinking that channelling's only really a problem if you're fly-sparging?

Well if you are going to build something you may as well make it to suit all situations.
I have had a copper manifold since I started AG in 2003 and it serves me well.
I sometimes batch sparge and sometimes fly sparge with the fly sparge giving me another 5 points of efficiency.
I guess if I added up the extra efficiency when I fly sparge and I wanted to run my brewery on a "pinch penny" budget then I should fly sparge all the time.
I think that this is really my argument for building the manifold so that it doesn't allow channelling. :beer:
The holes will work just fine.

Cheers

 

[Ducatiboy stu]

Still like the false bottom

One day when I am rich I will buy one from BeerBelly

http://www.beerbelly.com.au/mashequip.html

 

[Cocko]

Hey HB79,

As others, I am sure it will work but what gets me is why you would rush a pretty critical piece of kit?!

I went slotted and sawed by hand one length and like you got absolutely over it....

The next day went to a hardware store and bought the thinnest grinder disk you have ever seen... AS thin as a hacksaw blade!

Rest of the slots cuts, 4 lengths, took about 15 minutes - and a little filing to clean..

IMO: You are, and should, only be making this once so why not do it right?

Cheers

:icon_cheers:

 

[clean brewer]

Stainless steel braid all the way in my opinion, they're cheap, easy to cut, easy to install and easy to clean.

just my 2c

Aaron

I found SS Braid to work a treat, maybe not as good efficiency with it but a trusty cheap way to go...

Still like the false bottom

One day when I am rich I will buy one from BeerBelly

http://www.beerbelly.com.au/mashequip.html

Got the False Bottom, the best bit of kit ive bought so far, and greater efficiency... Would highly recommend getting one if you can.... :super:

Hey HB79,

As others, I am sure it will work but what gets me is why you would rush a pretty critical piece of kit?!

I went slotted and sawed by hand one length and like you got absolutely over it....

The next day went to a hardware store and bought the thinnest grinder disk you have ever seen... AS thin as a hacksaw blade!

Rest of the slots cuts, 4 lengths, took about 15 minutes - and a little filing to clean..

IMO: You are, and should, only be making this once so why not do it right?

Cheers

Yes, get a 1.1mm cut off wheel, it will demolish those slots in no time.... :beerbang:

:icon_cheers: CB

 

[avaneyk]

I found SS Braid to work a treat, maybe not as good efficiency with it but a trusty cheap way to go...

Yep, that's what I'm using too. I wouldn't use it for fly sparging in its current arrangement though.

 

[lefty2446]

Here is my setup, Loosely based on Palmers.

It has been modded several times over the years, first mod was to put the standoffs on the end so that it didn't come loose from the spigot when stirring in the mash. Second mod was to come up with a proper bulkhead setup to get out the side of the esky. Before that the tube from the manifold was longer and I used garden hose to seal around the outlet. Worked well for a while but in the end I got sick of it leaking.



Later mod was to manufacture the mesh screen to sit on top. (During a brewday) stuck sparge crush too fine, mesh made no difference! Large gravity brew and me crying... I ended up having to sparge that one in 2 runs and a 3hr boil to raise my gavity.



Cheers Adrian

 

[lefty2446]

Originally there were a lot fewer holes, the larger holes about 50mm apart were the originals, never had to close down the outlet for sparge (Fly Sparger) then I went and put in all the little holes. Now I have to shut down the outlet while sparging.



Cheers Adrian

 

[Pennywise]

Bugger, just realise I drilled the hole in the tun too low. Now the inside washer wont sit flush because of the slight curve on the base. Silicone, here we come.

 

[mckenry]

Bugger, just realise I drilled the hole in the tun too low. Now the inside washer wont sit flush because of the slight curve on the base. Silicone, here we come.

Any chance its not too low, to use a rubber washer?

 

[Spartan 117]

Bugger, just realise I drilled the hole in the tun too low. Now the inside washer wont sit flush because of the slight curve on the base. Silicone, here we come.

HB79, make sure you use the wet area stuff, have heard of people using general purpose stuff and have it peel off on them.

Aaron