Mangrove Jack Craft Series Yeasts

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Wilkensone said:
Spiesy is there a recommended technique for rehydrating yeast? I've read today both straight tap water, boiled and cooled water and no dehydration are all the 'correct' technique.. so I'm a bit lost :unsure:
All depends on who you choose to believe, friend. ;)

If you like, PM me your email address and I'll email you across the PDF. It has the instructions inside, which differ for ales and lagers.

Although in a nutshell, boiled and cooled to a specific temp (aka sterilised) tap water is usually the preferred medium.
 
I re-used M07 yesterday, the yeast had been in a jar in the fridge for 16 days. I hadn't washed it, just took the yeast slurry from the FV into the jar after bottling. Took off like a rocket.

Next one I'll brew a burton ale type winter warmer at around 1060° and use the Burton Union yeast rehydrated as the gravity is a bit higher.
 
I don't know why everyone is saying poor lag times. I pitched a 1.045 APA last night with M44 just sprinkled, was bubbling away this morning. No krausen yet but certainly CO2 activity. Might have been some poor intransit handling of the first few batches of yeast. Mine came from Pat @ Absolute, kept in fridge there and in fridge at home for a couple of months
 
Keep posting your experiences, guys. I am looking at giving the Bavarian wheat a go next.

Also, has anyone else got some feedback on the Newcastle dark ale?
 
I'm going to run the Bavarian wheat to compare with my latest hefe using wb06. M44 on the next golden ale will be directly pitched into the wort to see if it has less lag.

My current 1066 ipa that took 50hrs to kickoff ( poor handling on my part ) is after 5 day only at 1036, I normally have within 4-5 points till terminal gravity after 5 days...reminds me of the days before I knew much, fermentation took 2 weeks...lol.
 
Currently drinking a 100% Munich SMaSH brewed with Mangrove Jack Bohemian Lager yeast...
I experienced a very long lag time with this yeast (~72 hours) but the flavour is perfectly OK and not noticeably different from other Munich SMaSH's i've done before.

Very happy with the flavour but due to the long lag time I won't be using it again any time soon.
Seems lag is a very common problem with a lot of MJ strains
 
JoshAsh said:
Currently drinking a 100% Munich SMaSH brewed with Mangrove Jack Bohemian Lager yeast...
I experienced a very long lag time with this yeast (~72 hours) but the flavour is perfectly OK and not noticeably different from other Munich SMaSH's i've done before.
Very happy with the flavour but due to the long lag time I won't be using it again any time soon.
Seems lag is a very common problem with a lot of MJ strains
The lag you speak of, is this a "visual" thing - or measured lag?
 
JoshAsh said:
Currently drinking a 100% Munich SMaSH brewed with Mangrove Jack Bohemian Lager yeast...
I experienced a very long lag time with this yeast (~72 hours) but the flavour is perfectly OK and not noticeably different from other Munich SMaSH's i've done before.
Very happy with the flavour but due to the long lag time I won't be using it again any time soon.
Seems lag is a very common problem with a lot of MJ strains
Hey Josh,

The lag does appear to be a common factor. Lagers usually need 5x the normal pitch rate so Id be interested to know the Vol of Wort, Pitch/ferment temp, OG and time taken to ferment?

See my current batch is slowly ticking along and i feel Its going to under attenuate due to the 1066 OG and not enough yeast to rip throug it all, targetting 1.015 FG.
 
Spiesy said:
The lag you speak of, is this a "visual" thing - or measured lag?
Visual... no krausen formation etc. I am a noob, my normal procedure is not to start taking gravity readings before i notice krausen
 
JoshAsh said:
Visual... no krausen formation etc. I am a noob, my normal procedure is not to start taking gravity readings before i notice krausen
Righto. It's not technically a lag if just going off visual cues, as fermentation may have begun.

And as Pratty has mentioned, lager's generally require more yeast than comparable ale's. How much so, depends on who you ask.
E.g. yeastcalc.co rate a 20l, 1054 ale as needing 200 billion yeast cells. Whereas a 20l, 1054 lager would require 400 billion.

Then of course there's other factors to consider. Such as the condition of the yeast you're pitching - how old is it, how has it been stored, how have you prepared it (hydrated v non-hydrated, oxygenate v non-oxygenated) and the spec's of your wort (volume, gravity, fermentables, temperature, AG v extract - with or without nutrient) etc.

If all of those factors are the same between your comparisons - it certainly makes for a more profound evaluation.
 
Spiesy said:
Righto. It's not technically a lag if just going off visual cues, as fermentation may have begun.

And as Pratty has mentioned, lager's generally require more yeast than comparable ale's. How much so, depends on who you ask.
E.g. yeastcalc.co rate a 20l, 1054 ale as needing 200 billion yeast cells. Whereas a 20l, 1054 lager would require 400 billion.

Then of course there's other factors to consider. Such as the condition of the yeast you're pitching - how old is it, how has it been stored, how have you prepared it (hydrated v non-hydrated, oxygenate v non-oxygenated) and the spec's of your wort (volume, gravity, fermentables, temperature, AG v extract - with or without nutrient) etc.

If all of those factors are the same between your comparisons - it certainly makes for a more profound evaluation.
True, the most I could say definitively is that the OG of the wort, and the temperature and conditions under which it was pitched were the same as the previous batch in which I used saflager... as to yeast cell counts i have absolute no idea. Right now I am counting cells in 'packets' :D
 
From MJ yeast PDF
Although Mangrove Jack’s Craft Series
Yeasts do not require pre-hydration,
cleaner and more professional results
may be produced if rehydrated
before use.
For all strains
except the Bohemian
Lager Yeast
, add the sachet contents
to 100ml of water previously adjusted
to a temperature between 86–95°F
(30–35°C). For Bohemian Lager Yeast,
rehydrate using 3.4 fl.oz (100 ml) of
68–77°F (20–25°C) water. Stir gently
into a yeast cream for between 8 and 12
minutes then add yeast cream directly
to wort. Alternatively the dry yeast
can be added directly into the wort by
sprinkling onto the surface and
leaving to stand for 10-15 minutes
before stirring.

In most cases Mangrove Jack’s Beer
Yeast can be used at a ratio of one
10 gram pack for up to 6.6 US gal (25L).
However, for best results take note of
the following exceptions to the rule:
EXCEPTION
RECOMMENDATION
Ales of original
gravity over 1.050
Use 2 x 10g packets
per 6.6 US Gal (25L)

Lagers to be
fermented at 57°F
(14°C) or lower
Use 2 x 10g packets
per 6.6 US Gal (25L


Under-pitching yeast in lagers or
stronger ales will result in extended
lag times (the time between pitching
your yeast and the commencement
of fermentation) which can allow
undesirable microbes to multiply,
tainting your beer. The yeast will
become “stressed” and may produce
excessive and undesirable fruity esters
and/or sulphur compounds.
High end gravities are also possible
where lower pitch rates are used,
leading to sweet and worty
unfinished beer
Nev
 
This morning about 0730 I pitched a packed of rehydrated Belgian Ale into a Leffe Brune attempt.
Now, big krausen and the glad wrap has almost blown off.
 
Yesterday I rehydrated and pitched a packet of the West Coast. Krausen now, not sure when it showed up as I was at work @ 0630.
 
Sounds like you're having some success mate.

I need to give this yeast a try.
 
Anyone got any experience on the M79 Burton Ale yeast?

What limited research I've been able to pull off the webs has shown that it tends to produce "belgian type" esters and phenolics, rather than the british style ones and seems to have a cloudy appearance that doesn't like to drop out - it appears as though it really suffers when underpitched and 2 packets in a 1.050 wort is minimum to get the yeast to behave the way it should.

Anyone else got much to add? I had a packet of this and Notto for a British Pale Ale, and played the safe-ish route and went with notto at 19 degrees. I'm a bit annoyed, I thought I had some Windsor in stock, but found my BIAB excel spreadsheet with my inventory had mysteriously karked it, so I went in blind.
 
Dunno about Belgian esters. I thought it was very good in a dry hoppy uk ales. Will use the other pack for a bitter. I liked the esters it threw, I found them nice and like the esters I encountered when using liquid burton yeast. Yum
 
Bugger. I made a hoppy British ale (think 50IBU, mostly from late additions, with a single FWH addition of magnum). Lucky I adjusted for the hop-**** that Notto commits when it runs through the wort like a rampaging viking on Viagra.

Oh well, I'll know next time.
 
The pale ale I put down with M44 a week ago is still at high krausen, gravity's in the high 20s. Took a while to get going and doesn't seem to be in any hurry. Ah well, neither am I :p
 
Back
Top