Kettle volume etching

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AJS2154 said:
Hi Mr B, it erodes the finished surface of the stainless. You are going too hard on the cleaning if that happens mate......did mine 8-12 months ago and as good as the day I did it. It has made a huge difference to my brewing, no sticks in the hot liquor, which are never accurate.

For what it's worth. I suggest anybody who is thinking of doing this uses a battery charger if you have access to one. Makes it fast and easy.

Cheers, Anthony
Thanks Anthony - Havent done it yet, just curious on the durability.

On the bucket list (time list really....)
 
I'm looking to do this with my old CUB Keggle. Has anyone made a template that I could use or know the distance mm for a litre? Obviously I'm after a template designed around a CUB Keggle.
 
I just used a 2L jug and filled to 10L, then started marking every 2L with a crayon
then made up stencils for the etching and placed them at the same level as the markings
 
sp0rk said:
I just used a 2L jug and filled to 10L, then started marking every 2L with a crayon
then made up stencils for the etching and placed them at the same level as the markings
I did mine geometrically and proofed it with this method.
 
I'm planning to do 2L markers as well, was planning to use my digital scales to save any spillage-related errors
 
Water = volume = weight

Measure it or weight it, you will get the same result
 
Ducatiboy stu said:
Water = volume = weight

Measure it or weight it, you will get the same result
Not sure what you're pointing out other than the obvious. Was that responding to my post? If it wasn't obvious I was pointing out to future readers of the thread that weighing is likely to be more reliable than multiple cycles pouring error-inducing vessels...
 
Just thinking out loud, using copper sulphate and stuff, one could 'copper plate' a voulme scale on their kettle.
 
probably worth mentioning here that the water volume will change with temperature.
Markings you make using cold water to measure won't be accurate once the liquid is hot.
 
That's a good point philistine, does anyone account for this on their kettle markings, or know whether programs such as beer smith account for this in the post boil volumes etc?

I reckon that's something that's been getting me when calculating final volumes by weight for cubes and starters......
 
That's a good point philistine, does anyone account for this on their kettle markings, or know whether programs such as beer smith account for this in the post boil volumes etc?

I reckon that's something that's been getting me when calculating final volumes by weight for cubes and starters......
Beersmith does very well on default settings that I have found. Hot/cold etc. Otherwise Its all by eye in the end. You know that % hot vs cold in touch with volumes.
Sight glass at 22lt boiling = 21lt cold
Gotta try this etching some time too. :cool:
 
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Good video, takes me back a bit, the old Curiosity Show!
Rob mentioned"iron" a bit while referring to the chemical reaction of the copper sulphate.
There is very low iron levels in most Stainless steel ie 304 S/S as used in brewery kegs, so I'm not sure that the chemical reaction would occur?
I guess it's worth trying though.... in the name of curiosity
Brock
 
Beersmith does very well on default settings that I have found. Hot/cold etc. Otherwise Its all by eye in the end. You know that % hot vs cold in touch with volumes.
Sight glass at 22lt boiling = 21lt cold
Gotta try this etching some time too. :cool:

I generally make two cubes and about 4 litres for starters in a batch. If I end up with say 56 litres post boil, I would then take off the 4 litres then split the rest and covert to kilos to account for the gravity.

So I might be looking at say 25 kilos for each cube, and weigh each cube when filling.

I mostly run a bit short, so I think the light has come on that I need to convert the hot volume to cold volume before converting to weight to get my measurements spot on.

Thanks for the thinking prompt.

Should do some etching too......
 
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