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Yob

Hop to it
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afternoon all, went past a bloke throwing all sorts of stuff out, I noticed he had 4 FORD rims as well, took one look and thought... Yep, Kettle stand to make a windproof thingy... 1 angle grinder blade later Ive got this...
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idea is to cut a hole in the side to suit 3 or 4 ring burner which I guess will sit on bricks till I can rig something adjustable...

wadd'a'ya'rekon??? only thing I dont know I guess is how the rim will take the heat...

Yob
 
looks good. It should be aluminium so it should take heat alright. It will also heat faster not only will it stop the wind it should hold the heat in, So you wont need to turn the gas up as much. Also you prob want to put some holes under the burner so it can breath a bit as you do need some oxigen :p
 
See how 1/3 down the rim [in the image with the kettle on it] the sides bend inwards....

Well... what if you grind back the 'spokes' so the base of the kettle is inside the rim so the gap between it and the rim acts like a chimney of sorts. Drill some holes around the base for air induction and you should get much more efficiency from your burner.
 
I need to cut the slot to suit a 3 or 4 ring one one side (can somebody measure a 4 ring?)

I had thought it might need some holes round the base.. I think when Ive finished it it may be a nice piece of bling :rolleyes: cutting up FORD bits is always enjoyable anyway... lol

I knew having a windshield for the burner was a go and when I saw the rims there it just clicked :icon_drunk:

soooo many (fun) projects :super:
 
Looks pretty sweet to me. I don't think you'll have to worry about cutting any kind of holes to draw air through, as long as your venturi is outside the rim, it will be getting all the air it needs from there.
 
Looks pretty sweet to me. I don't think you'll have to worry about cutting any kind of holes to draw air through, as long as your venturi is outside the rim, it will be getting all the air it needs from there.

it will burn sooty if it doesn't have some holes drilled in the walls.
 
due to the height of the Rim and the keggle on top, I think that the burner will need to be elevated a little, was thinking of using the cut-out of the rim or the keggle to form a "stand" for the burner to bring it to the right height..

air intake was never far from mind, I guess there will be tweaking involved as with any new piece of rig... will start with small holes about 10mm and work my way up with testing, now I have the adjustable reg I should be able to tweak it to get it right...

have I said before I love this game?..

**** gotta go pitch some notto :icon_cheers:

Yob
 
I found when i built mine that it needed to have the keg sit slightly higher than the wheel rim. I welded a couple of small pieces of angle in there to sit it up a few mm and have the air getting to it all round, worked much better.

Without this it kept going out, even though there was a large slot cut to put the burner through.

No way you'll fit a 4 ring in there.



boiler9.jpg
 
what is the cone thing at the top of the keggle/HLT? I presume you have left the lid largely intact from the look of that piccie...
 
what is the cone thing at the top of the keggle/HLT? I presume you have left the lid largely intact from the look of that piccie...

That's a 4x 2" reducer on a copamate bolted flange. I use that boiler for lots of other things than heating water, it doubles as a pressure cooker, steam generator to inject steam into the big pot next to it for cooking grains, and other unmentionable acts. :icon_cheers:
 
That's a 4x 2" reducer on a copamate bolted flange. I use that boiler for lots of other things than heating water, it doubles as a pressure cooker, steam generator to inject steam into the big pot next to it for cooking grains, and other unmentionable acts. :icon_cheers:

so you have a weldneck flange onto the reducer and bolt the weldneck to a fixed flange ?

cheers

Yard
 
so you have a weldneck flange onto the reducer and bolt the weldneck to a fixed flange ?

cheers

Yard

Its a copamate...


coppamate1.jpg


I have a few different setups, i've upgraded my keg based pressure cooker for doing mushrooms with an 8" triclamp fitting..

pressurecanner5.jpg


Apologies to the OP for the unintentional hijack -_-
 
Apologies to the OP for the unintentional hijack -_-

No bother at all though ive no idea what most of what your answer means... :p (however I did ask the question) lol

cut the hole for the burner today and it seems the correct height as far as I can tell is about a brick, will weld up a frame for the burner to sit on another day.

No airflow holes cut yet, I heated about 15lt of water in the Keggle and then had a look underneath, no carbon build up so will play that one by ear... though it is also quite likely that I havnt got the burner set up correctly either... lol..

I guess the PITA will be moving it to under the keggle from the HLT when im mashing, as yet its all untested in anger, im waiting to buy my immersion element that will be run by an STC1000. (Ive been told that others use them without issue)
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im totally getting itchy though, I bought 5kg of Pale Ale Malt today, two weeks and im mashing in my first AG come hell or high water :ph34r: will be a PITA without a site tube fitted though because of it's height <_<

Yob
 
will be a PITA without a site tube fitted though because of it's height

Yob

in lieu of a sightglass you can use a cheap stainless metre ruler from wherever you can find one, drill a hole at the top and suspend it in the HLT with a piece of dowel etc and then mark your water in 1 litre increments up the ruler.

cheers
 
cheers Yardy, I continued playing with it and reckon the right level is a bit higher than shown above, a brick and then the "cut-out" of the rim upside down on it holds and supports the 3 ring burner and brings the flames to right near the under side of the Keggle..

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there isnt really a too close / too far away kind of rule is there? it's more like "it's just that sweet spot for the flame" with that rig...??

Notably it did burn sootier at this level with the keggle on it and will require air inlets as suggested.

[edit] I have a piece of aluminium angle (pretty small stuff) I was going to use in the short term until I can get the site tube sorted for it. Hopefully all comes together in time, im hoping to have a go at a SMASH in 2 weeks.

Cheers
 
If you go to put legs on it suggestion is that three legs will always sit flat if not level. Four legs can be rocky unless they are exact.
 
Might be an idea to have the legs long enough so you can drain from the tap into a cube entirely without having to lift the keggle onto anything.
wrt sootiness, did a brew at a mate's the other day, he was using a 3-ring on a welded stand but had the burner too far from the keggle base, there was soot all over the bottom. Lots of airflow etc. I luckily don't have any sooting problem with my Italian spiral but did have to lift the keggle onto some milk crates. I know I'll be re-mounting the burner whenever I get to building a rig. I put me grey coloured med press 2Kg/Hr regulator at full pressure and the jet on the burner at full gap + the knob turned all the way, no adjustment of the knob or the pressure caused any sooting at all.

Edit: dam autocorrect
 
todays upgrade tinker :D
1.JPG tack weld hinge and adapter plate
2.JPG remeber to grind the burrs off the rim first..
3.JPG scrounge all parts, chair legs from waste pile on the side of the road and the rest is leftovers from the hop trellis
4.JPG adjustable leg welded on
5.JPG loosely assembled
6.JPG adjustment mechanism added :lol:
7.JPG happy with the level of the flame, the bolt in the photo supports the hinged mag innard/burner stand, the burner is easily removed.
8.JPG Arial view of the bad boy
9.JPG Side on View, very uneven ground and was piss easy to adjust.

tip taken about the height thing, easily can sit a cube under it to fill.... and I could probably do it on the side of a mountain.. Ha!!

:super:
 

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