Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yes we are going to distribute the BrewBuilt fermenters and stainless hardware in Australia. We did contemplate stocking things like SS BrewTech but the price is high and I think the quality is not even as good as the BrewBuilt gear so we have decided to stock BrewBuilt instead.

Nice to hear, any ETA on when you expect gear to land? I'd also suggest an alternative cooling solution ... their Cool Stick thing doesn't seem adequate for local conditions, especially cold crashing larger batches.
 
I am all for more 4" TC compatible fermentation attachments - one with an inexpensive dry hop / fruiting port could be interesting.

For anyone interested in the Brewbuilt fermentation gear (they are a morebeer brand from the US), here's an entertainingly similar post to one you'd find on this forum: Spike CF5 vs Brewbuilt X1 Unti-Tank

In any case, that whole HBT thread is probably worth a read to anyone considering the BB unitank when it is available locally.

Yes this is an interseting thread. The BrewBuilt products are fairly new to the market in comparison to Spike and SS Brew Tech things are moving with BrewBuilt quite fast and even these commens in this older forum post are not correct anymore. More Beer is pretty much the largest distributor of home brew gear in America I the management at More Beer have already made it clear to us that they are continuing to develope the range and I am confident the sales of the BrewBuilt stuff will eventually surpass the SS Brew Tech and Spike as more accessories and better designs are released.
 
What sizes will you carry and which sizes will fit in the RAPT fermentation chamber?

We will stock the BrewBuilt X1 Conicals in the 7Gallon, 14Gallon, 27Gallon, 42Gallon sizes.


The 7 and 14 Gallon tanks should fit but I have not actually tried this myself but based on the dimensions these two should be fine.
 
Nice to hear, any ETA on when you expect gear to land? I'd also suggest an alternative cooling solution ... their Cool Stick thing doesn't seem adequate for local conditions, especially cold crashing larger batches.

More Beer will soon release a new cooling coil that will look very similar to the Temp Twister however it will be welded into the lid of the 4inch tri-clover. The same lids will then also be compatible with the Kegmenters as well.
 
@KegLand-com-au - regarding the use of your Core 360 Regulator. I have connected this with your 74g c02 cartridges, which works great right until it's time to disconnect the cartridge. Can you please tell me how to properly disconnect the cartridge? It's impossible to simply turn the thumbscrew anti-clockwise to release the pin and if I unscrew the cartridge with the thumbscrew pin still engaged I lose the entire contents of the bulb. What am I doing wrong here?
 
With the G20 Chillers We do have an isolated relay already on the board for these. So if you are ok with the wiring it's not that difficult to wire up a DC or AC device to this. Basically you connect the neutral/negative to the heating device then the active/positive through the relay and that's it. If you need more assistance with this best to probably email us with the parts you have with photos then we can give you some further advice over email to suit your particular wiring.
I don't have anything as yet. Planning if I want to go down that route.

If I was I would look at using your 30w heating wrap mat. That's not something you would look at selling with the wiring ready to attach to a G20?
 
@KegLand-com-au - regarding the use of your Core 360 Regulator. I have connected this with your 74g c02 cartridges, which works great right until it's time to disconnect the cartridge. Can you please tell me how to properly disconnect the cartridge? It's impossible to simply turn the thumbscrew anti-clockwise to release the pin and if I unscrew the cartridge with the thumbscrew pin still engaged I lose the entire contents of the bulb. What am I doing wrong here?
I thought those 74g bulbs were just like the 16g versions, one you puncture the bulb you can't remove it without the gas escaping as there's no valve. If you want be able to remove the bottle you need a soda stream bottle which has a valve in the top.
 
We will stock the BrewBuilt X1 Conicals in the 7Gallon, 14Gallon, 27Gallon, 42Gallon sizes.
The 7 and 14 Gallon tanks should fit but I have not actually tried this myself but based on the dimensions these two should be fine.
Do we know the minimum batch size for the 14 & 27 gallon X1 conicals?
And will you be offering the neoprene jacket and any form of heating element?
 
Is there somewhere that has all the dimensions of the modular font parts?

I was thinking when my keezer dies to get a series X plus, and hoping to have a U shaped font with six taps. So double T -> single extension -> single extension -> double T. Wondering if that would fit between the two holes in the top of the x plus.
 
We only have the 19L bladders in the pipeline at the moment. If the 19L bladders are successful we will then look to make other sizes down the track.

I really like the 2L kegs and much prefer them to the other mini kegs that we have. They are a bit more expensive to manufacture but a more compact and handy size to fit into an esky.

As the 2L kegs use the same ball lock keg lid size as the 19L kegs you could use the same bladder and reduce the size of the bladder with a standard heat sealer. So if you were really desperate you could do this at home yourselves. At least until we start manufacturing other sized bladders for you.
How would the bladders work, ie do you need to pre-carbonate or can that occur in the keg also? also, would the bladder increase the life of the beer in a keg?
 
Last edited:
This has probably already been asked but does the nukatap push in counter pressure filler fit in the older intertap nozzle? Is it the same nozzle as the nukatap?
 
I hope this is the right thread, sorry, I'm a noobie.

Inline Regulator HELP PLEASE!

I have Kegland's duotight Inline regulator (KL15035)setup running my two keg setup. With the idea of forced carbonating one keg when I need too and the other is set to serving pressure (7psi).
My issue is when I try and pump up the pressure for force-carbing (say 30psi), the serving regulator jumps up! And I can't seem to dial it down. It's as if the pressure equalises between the kegs
Am I missing something? Or is my regulator broken?

Also a related question... Sounds stupid, but I can't figure when the regulator is closed?
When the dial is at it's 'highest' and twists all the way out? Or when the dial is turned all the way down?

Thanks in advance.
 
I hope this is the right thread, sorry, I'm a noobie.

Inline Regulator HELP PLEASE!

I have Kegland's duotight Inline regulator (KL15035)setup running my two keg setup. With the idea of forced carbonating one keg when I need too and the other is set to serving pressure (7psi).
My issue is when I try and pump up the pressure for force-carbing (say 30psi), the serving regulator jumps up! And I can't seem to dial it down. It's as if the pressure equalises between the kegs
Am I missing something? Or is my regulator broken?

Also a related question... Sounds stupid, but I can't figure when the regulator is closed?
When the dial is at it's 'highest' and twists all the way out? Or when the dial is turned all the way down?

Thanks in advance.
Below is video showing what happens after.
My setup
 
Last edited:
Back
Top