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Bump. I’d like the answer on this too.

sorry about that. It should be 10.65L. Thanks for picking that one up. When we changed the size of the tank to make the G20 more compact we forgot to update this in the manual. Thanks for highlighting this. We will get that changed and updated on the manual.
 
It comes with a diverter for a laundry tap, which are the same size (19mm / 3/4" BSP) as most garden taps.

Alternatively you could buy a 3/4" to 1/2" BSP reducer and then build up whatever adapters you need to get to 6.5mm from standard brewing fittings - I went this path to convert my garden tap and hoses to camlock because the standard garden quick-disconnect sucks.

As for the price - well, it's a little cheaper than the Filter Systems Australia model that I'm 99% sure it's a rebrand of (GT1-39). Yes, you can get something that looks pretty similar for about $50 less at other vendors. I can't speak for those.

Yes that is correct. The water in side is 3/4 for the standard laundry tap but this will fit most garden taps too. So you should be fine without purchasing any extra parts.
 
FWIW I have one of these and it gets my shitty water down from 450-500 TDS to under 20. My cheap ebay RO only managed about 50 TDS.
I use one of these to adapt to a hose: https://www.bunnings.com.au/holman-18mm-brass-sprinkler-adapter_p3110590

With the cheap ebay RO unit that did not work that well what membrane did you have in the filter? This is a similar experience we got with some other cheaper membranes. Either the membrane doesn't work well or the seals around the edges of the filter get some blow by where water just bypasses the filter all together. I would be interested to know if you could just replace the membrane in your cheap ebay RO unit without making any other changes and see if it works better.
 
We are considering not getting the 30psi guages back in again as we already stock this 0-30psi gauge one and they are obviously quite close. Do you need the 0-23psi one specifically?

Also the FC ball lock disconnects are superseded as we have the new design that will replace the current one that is on our website.

Makes sense with the 30psi unit, something i didn't consider.

With the FC disconnect are you re-designing the disconnect or implementing it with the new Nukatap? i remember reading that FC taps can be more of a hindrance than help in some cases, it'll be a bit odd if you are going to go back down that route.
 
We are considering not getting the 30psi guages back in again as we already stock this 0-30psi gauge one and they are obviously quite close. Do you need the 0-23psi one specifically?

Also the FC ball lock disconnects are superseded as we have the new design that will replace the current one that is on our website.


I have both the 30psi ones and a single 23psi one (came on the blowtie). I find the 23psi ones to be far superior for a few reasons:
  • Easier to adjust to typical serving pressure
  • More accurate for typical serving pressure (10% of working range, 2.3psi error vs 3psi)
  • The 30psi one has the psi scale in red, the 23psi one has the psi scale in black. In my dimly lit keezer it is way easier to read the black scale than the red.
  • The 30psi one has the psi scale on the outside, whereas the 23psi one has the psi scale on the inside. Looking down into a keezer, the numbers along the outer scale are often obscured by the top edge of the gauge, so to read the psi scale on the 30 gauge I need to try to stick my head down into the keezer further.
Cheers,
Chris
 
I have both the 30psi ones and a single 23psi one (came on the blowtie). I find the 23psi ones to be far superior for a few reasons:
  • Easier to adjust to typical serving pressure
  • More accurate for typical serving pressure (10% of working range, 2.3psi error vs 3psi)
  • The 30psi one has the psi scale in red, the 23psi one has the psi scale in black. In my dimly lit keezer it is way easier to read the black scale than the red.
  • The 30psi one has the psi scale on the outside, whereas the 23psi one has the psi scale on the inside. Looking down into a keezer, the numbers along the outer scale are often obscured by the top edge of the gauge, so to read the psi scale on the 30 gauge I need to try to stick my head down into the keezer further.
Cheers,
Chris

Hey Chris. If you really want accuracy I think it might be good for you to wait a bit. I don't want to give too much away right now as I feel that the more I talk about it the more questions I will have to answer on the topic and then if I talk to mush about it many customers will be frustrated that it's not available yet and it's not in stock yet. So it's a bit of a catch 22.

With that said we are working on a new mini gauge that will go from 0-100psi and have 1% accuracy so this will be the most accurate gauge and will fit into all these products:

Blowtie Spunding Valve
Inline Regulator
Mini Core 360 Regulator
RAPT Fermentation Chamber
... and several other products that will be available in the future.

We will be able to sell this at about $9-13.

If you talk to any credible gauge manufacturer they will tell you that when you go below 100mm diameter gauges you really start to sacrifice accuracy as it's very difficult to make a bourdon tube accurate that is very compact. As "mini" keg systems become more popular and everyone likes things to be as compact as possible we believe we have to make new mini digital pressure gauges that use electronics rather than analogue bourdon tube. So the wheels are in motion with regards to this but you will have to wait a few months before this is complete. I cannot give a finish date for this as we are only at the early stages of development.
 
Makes sense with the 30psi unit, something i didn't consider.

With the FC disconnect are you re-designing the disconnect or implementing it with the new Nukatap? i remember reading that FC taps can be more of a hindrance than help in some cases, it'll be a bit odd if you are going to go back down that route.


With the FC products we have two completely new products that will come into stock.

Nukatap FC
There are plenty of flow control taps out there. For the ones that are not forward sealing I would not consider these at all and to be honest I have no idea why anyone still purchases rear sealing taps. I still see new home brewers purchasing rear sealing taps and it continually surprises me that they use this inferior technology with very little difference in price. So for this discussion I will talk about the Intertap FC and the Perlick FC taps. Both these designs cause a significant amount of turbulence and many customers report foaming issues with these models in particular. With the new Nukatap FC this does pour far better than these other two competitors. We have had a few set backs with this product but I think it will finally be completed in August this year. We do apologise for the long wait. Even though I still prefer to use the FC Ball Lock Disconnects and this is what we will recommend to our customers first we still feel that an FC tap is required by some customers that need flow control right at the bar area rather than where the kegs are stored.


FC Ball Lock Disconnects
We have discontinued our old fully stainless FC Ball Lock Disconnects and in the future we have a stainless and plastic hybrid product. This will significantly reduce the cost of manufacture. I do not have the release date on this yet but most likely some time between now and Christmas.
 
Hey Chris. If you really want accuracy I think it might be good for you to wait a bit. I don't want to give too much away right now as I feel that the more I talk about it the more questions I will have to answer on the topic and then if I talk to mush about it many customers will be frustrated that it's not available yet and it's not in stock yet. So it's a bit of a catch 22.

With that said we are working on a new mini gauge that will go from 0-100psi and have 1% accuracy so this will be the most accurate gauge and will fit into all these products:

Blowtie Spunding Valve
Inline Regulator
Mini Core 360 Regulator
RAPT Fermentation Chamber
... and several other products that will be available in the future.

We will be able to sell this at about $9-13.

If you talk to any credible gauge manufacturer they will tell you that when you go below 100mm diameter gauges you really start to sacrifice accuracy as it's very difficult to make a bourdon tube accurate that is very compact. As "mini" keg systems become more popular and everyone likes things to be as compact as possible we believe we have to make new mini digital pressure gauges that use electronics rather than analogue bourdon tube. So the wheels are in motion with regards to this but you will have to wait a few months before this is complete. I cannot give a finish date for this as we are only at the early stages of development.

Sounds like a great solution, and dont have to worry about exceeding gauge pressure. I'm fine to wait. The 30psi ones are still good, just not quite as nice as the 23s. Here is my set up.

Gas.jpg


Regarding the taps, what would be nice to see is test where you have multiple taps connected to the same keg so you can do a proper side by side under the exact same conditions. I use perlick flow control taps at the moment. I do get a bit of foam on the first pour. I generally just turn the flow down for the first 1/4 glass or so and then back up again and its fine. I'm looking at changing to taps with a return spring, as its only a matter of time until my 2 year old pulls on a tap handle and walks away, emptying a keg onto the floor.
 
We are considering not getting the 30psi guages back in again as we already stock this 0-30psi gauge one and they are obviously quite close. Do you need the 0-23psi one specifically?

Also the FC ball lock disconnects are superseded as we have the new design that will replace the current one that is on our website.
The 23's are good for pressure control to kegs etc... when aiming for 10-15psi, its a bit easier to adjust and control than the 30's
 
Sounds like a great solution, and dont have to worry about exceeding gauge pressure. I'm fine to wait. The 30psi ones are still good, just not quite as nice as the 23s. Here is my set up.

View attachment 118385

Regarding the taps, what would be nice to see is test where you have multiple taps connected to the same keg so you can do a proper side by side under the exact same conditions. I use perlick flow control taps at the moment. I do get a bit of foam on the first pour. I generally just turn the flow down for the first 1/4 glass or so and then back up again and its fine. I'm looking at changing to taps with a return spring, as its only a matter of time until my 2 year old pulls on a tap handle and walks away, emptying a keg onto the floor.
great idea on the side by side tap on same keg test.
 
Hey Kegland, When are you going to get some company that can implement a proper web site. Your new one is just hopeless and most unprofessional. Just try and buy an essential item for brewing beer. YEAST. Go -> ingredients -> liquid home brew yeast. You only get NINE 9 products that you can only buy four of. I recently purchased WLP029, it was not listed under liquid yeast but search found it. As I said, very unprofessional. Pathetic actually. By the way, the problem exists across other categories.
 
Sounds like a great solution, and dont have to worry about exceeding gauge pressure. I'm fine to wait. The 30psi ones are still good, just not quite as nice as the 23s. Here is my set up.

View attachment 118385

Regarding the taps, what would be nice to see is test where you have multiple taps connected to the same keg so you can do a proper side by side under the exact same conditions. I use perlick flow control taps at the moment. I do get a bit of foam on the first pour. I generally just turn the flow down for the first 1/4 glass or so and then back up again and its fine. I'm looking at changing to taps with a return spring, as its only a matter of time until my 2 year old pulls on a tap handle and walks away, emptying a keg onto the floor.


When the Nukatap FC taps come into stock they will be the first and only forward sealing tap ever manufactured with a self closing spring. So if you want FC and self closing they are your only choice. When you get them it would be great if you can post a side by side review. We are fairly confident you will get less foam on the Nukatap design. The Perlick flow control has a lot of sharp edges that cause turbulence and if the beer is super cold it's tolerable but far from ideal.
 
Hey Kegland, When are you going to get some company that can implement a proper web site. Your new one is just hopeless and most unprofessional. Just try and buy an essential item for brewing beer. YEAST. Go -> ingredients -> liquid home brew yeast. You only get NINE 9 products that you can only buy four of. I recently purchased WLP029, it was not listed under liquid yeast but search found it. As I said, very unprofessional. Pathetic actually. By the way, the problem exists across other categories.

The local web design agency we are using www.mitash.com we have found to be pretty good so far but this yeast issue is actually our issue so we can't blame them. Thanks for letting us know about the yeast category issue. This will be fixed up very soon. Please let us know if you come across anything else like this that we have missed and we will fix it up straight away.
 
The 23's are good for pressure control to kegs etc... when aiming for 10-15psi, its a bit easier to adjust and control than the 30's

If the digital ones are available for slightly higher price do you think you would just go with this option instead or would you still prefer the 23's?
 
If the digital ones are available for slightly higher price do you think you would just go with this option instead or would you still prefer the 23's?
.

Most of us have the blowtie type, so to be able to switch them out for different psi is great. I do not know what the digital thing is you are talking about, sorry.
If it's a square LCD that screws in place of the analog needle/dial ones, then yes, that would be great.
But if it means buying a whole new item, no.
 
FC Ball Lock Disconnects
We have discontinued our old fully stainless FC Ball Lock Disconnects and in the future we have a stainless and plastic hybrid product. This will significantly reduce the cost of manufacture. I do not have the release date on this yet but most likely some time between now and Christmas.
The all stainless ones are so wonderfully over-engineered they could serve dual purpose as knuckle dusters, nuclear bomb containment devices etc.
They have the satisfying heft and “clunk”of a classic car...
 
The local web design agency we are using www.mitash.com we have found to be pretty good so far but this yeast issue is actually our issue so we can't blame them. Thanks for letting us know about the yeast category issue. This will be fixed up very soon. Please let us know if you come across anything else like this that we have missed and we will fix it up straight away.
I'd hate to see what you call a poor web design agency then. Tell them to learn to sanitise inputs properly.
 
The local web design agency we are using www.mitash.com we have found to be pretty good so far but this yeast issue is actually our issue so we can't blame them. Thanks for letting us know about the yeast category issue. This will be fixed up very soon. Please let us know if you come across anything else like this that we have missed and we will fix it up straight away.
Nah, Vic is right. Your website is horrendous. You have customers here highlighting basic errors and relying on them to report back you. A potential new customer or one not familiar with your range will just say it's too hard and find an alternative.
 
Hello KegLand. I have the cash ready to go to buy a new series x kegerator, but everything is out of stock. When will this actually be available? I'm green to kegging, and venturing out for the first time, i've been ringing the phone number for advice, on the website but always engaged.
 

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