KegLand Questions and Answers

[mud13s]

We have been using the MaltZilla here for some time now. It draws grains, corn, and other materials far better than any other Mill that we have made but largely the reason it works so well is the surface finish on the rollers. At the moment the surface finish is really quite expensive and we want the mill to be priced so its competitive with other mills available. The roller diameter is also really quite large and this was one of the other reasons why the grain mill gives a much better crush. The same issue also applies. The large diameter adds a lot of cost to the rollers and we are making more moulds and changing the way the mill is manufactured so we can still have these important design features but be very price competitive.

Originally we were going to introduce a traditional knurled roller first and then release the new surface treated roller at a later date but honestly I think the knurled rollers will be a product of the past once the new rollers are available.

In summary, we have some new units that will be the first out of our new moulds and these will arrive to us for testing in 4 weeks and we will need about 5-6 weeks to thoroughly test these samples. Fingers crossed this is the last variation that we make on this product. If everything goes well we will then produce the first shipment and we will have the stock arrive about 4 more weeks after that. So I would say most likely 12-15 weeks. I wish it was sooner but we are just trying to be as realistic as possible.

Are these approximate dates still on track?

 

[fdsaasdf]

I would like to see a local immersion chiller similar to the JaDeD Hydra without the crazy price tag
https://jadedbrewing.com/products/the-hydra

why not make your own? https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/ghetto-immersion-chiller.71974/

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Has anyone had issues with the gas disconnects with integrated check valve (KL09010).

I bought one recently and it seems only to let a tiny amount of co2 through and the beer comes through at a trickle.

If i have two kegs connected on the same gas line, one through an inline check valve and conventional disconnect and one through the new one the pressure is far lower in the one with the new disconnect.

What pressure are you using. It's important to remember that all of these check valves have an opening pressure of between 1-3psi:

These types of gas manifolds have opening pressure of about 1.5psi
These types of ball lock disconnects with check valve have opening pressure of some sort I will find out the exact figure tomorrow. Sorry these are relatively new and i have not had a lot of time to play around with this product myself yet.
These duotight check valves have an opening pressure of about 1.5psi
These push in ones have an opening pressure of about 2psi

So it's important to remember whatever input pressure you have the output pressure of the check valve will be less than the input pressure. So if the opening pressure is 2psi and you are only applying 5psi at the regulator then you only have 3psi on the output of the check valve. This is the same with all these spring type check valves. I would not imagine you would be using such low pressure though right? What pressure do you dispense with?

Also in order to make the check valve as compact as possible the orifice at which the gas passes through is relatively small. With that said after you pour the first beer or so you will have a bigger "reserve" in the head space of the keg so on the next beer the pressure drop will not be as significant or noticeable when you pour a beer. So if you have a very full keg this effect can be exacerbated.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Are these approximate dates still on track?

I believe this is still on track. Sorry we have made more revisions to this product than we initially thought would be necessary but good things come to all who wait. How have you guys found the grain that will mill for you? We have been doing a lot more grain orders for you guys in the past few months. Can we get some feedback from guys who have used this Grain Bill Maker and selected the milled option.

We have been using the new mill for all these orders. The new mill uses a surface treatment on the roller that really reduces the amount of "chopping" of the husk. So we have been curious to know if you guys have found our grain to have more intact husk and as a result be better for brewing and also see less stuck mashes. Would be good to get some feedback on this if you have any.

We seem to have been getting better results ourselves but we would like to get more advice from you guys.

 

[Meddo]

Hey @KegLand-com-au , have you had any further thoughts regarding tri clamp adaptors for the fermzilla?

Cheers,

Bump, @KegLand-com-au ?

 

[Meddo]

why not make your own? https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/ghetto-immersion-chiller.71974/

@Fro-Daddy Indeed. This ******* was like a black hole of cold. #birdsnestchillsbest
https://aussiehomebrewer.com/threads/immersion-chiller-has-anyone-used-this.93059/#post-1416457
and:

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Bump, @KegLand-com-au ?

The current seals are all in places where the threads on the FermZilla are not exposed to the wort. We really believe that threads are the best way to hold these higher pressures too.

I am not sure if you guys have done this but if you remove a tri-clover clamp when under pressure the lid/door/opening can blow off with a large amount of force. The FermZilla has been designed so full pressure is released when you still have a little over 1 revolution of thread still connected thus preventing this type of explosion.

The tri-clover fittings are desirable from sanitary perspective but from a safety perspective for a pressure vessel that really does go up quite high we are unsure if they are a good option. (please remember that we recommend hydro tests on the Fermzilla done up to 4bar and we still need a safety factor at 4Bar). So getting plastic tri-clover fittings to go up this high is not that easy.

If you dont mind me asking which part would you like to see turned into tri-clover? Do you mean the dump valve? Or would you want a tri-clover lid?

 

[Meddo]

The current seals are all in places where the threads on the FermZilla are not exposed to the wort. We really believe that threads are the best way to hold these higher pressures too.

I am not sure if you guys have done this but if you remove a tri-clover clamp when under pressure the lid/door/opening can blow off with a large amount of force. The FermZilla has been designed so full pressure is released when you still have a little over 1 revolution of thread still connected thus preventing this type of explosion.

The tri-clover fittings are desirable from sanitary perspective but from a safety perspective for a pressure vessel that really does go up quite high we are unsure if they are a good option. (please remember that we recommend hydro tests on the Fermzilla done up to 4bar and we still need a safety factor at 4Bar). So getting plastic tri-clover fittings to go up this high is not that easy.

If you dont mind me asking which part would you like to see turned into tri-clover? Do you mean the dump valve? Or would you want a tri-clover lid?

Thanks for the reply, but as I've mentioned before I really want TC adaptors to be able to use a full range of TC gear, not because it's necessarily more sanitary than your current seals. But specifically I don't like the dump valve and collection bottle arrangement, I want to be able to run my own plumbing from the bottom for controlled drainage / dumping and closed-loop CIP. Also I want to be able to use my TC spray balls and dry-hopping air-lock on the top port.

May I suggest for the top an adaptor to 4" TC which includes a PRV on the 5" side? Something similar to a 4" to 5" TC end cap reducer (not that these actually exist in this size to my knowledge, but that end-cap reducer layout), but with the 5" side whatever you need to mate with the neck and thread-cap, and the PRV on the 5" flat section. The PRV is clearly mandatory on a pressure vessel.

At the bottom I'd look to remove the valve completely and just have something from the base of the cone to a 2" or 1.5" TC port, as per any stainless conical vessel. I know you're catering to a broad market but I think you could expect a certain level of competence not to remove the bottom port from a pressurised vessel full of beer.

These adaptors would be for a fairly specific market, I don't have a view either way whether they should be plastic or stainless but I don't necessarily think you'd need to go the plastic = cheaper approach for an item like this, most people who would use this would be happy to pay stainless prices I suspect.

Cheers,

 

[awfulknauful]

I believe this is still on track. Sorry we have made more revisions to this product than we initially thought would be necessary but good things come to all who wait. How have you guys found the grain that will mill for you? We have been doing a lot more grain orders for you guys in the past few months. Can we get some feedback from guys who have used this Grain Bill Maker and selected the milled option.

We have been using the new mill for all these orders. The new mill uses a surface treatment on the roller that really reduces the amount of "chopping" of the husk. So we have been curious to know if you guys have found our grain to have more intact husk and as a result be better for brewing and also see less stuck mashes. Would be good to get some feedback on this if you have any.

We seem to have been getting better results ourselves but we would like to get more advice from you guys.

Any chance of now seeing the video you promised yonks ago of this machine in action.

 

[FarsideOfCrazy]

Hi KL, is it possible to have future versions of the coolossus fitted with TC fittings on the wort side for a nice sanitised connection?

 

[WEF]

Hey KL, how do i add items on the website to "My Wishlist"? ive looked everywhere and cant seem to find how to add them...

 

[beer gut]

Hey KL, how do i add items on the website to "My Wishlist"? ive looked everywhere and cant seem to find how to add them...

@WEF you need to be logged into your account, you add the items to your cart. Once the items are in your cart you can move them to your wishlist.

 

[Gollywog]

Hey, Is it possible to use two of your plate chillers in a single esky in order to make it a 4 tap jockey box.

Would it work with one plate on the bottom, some ice, and then a second plate? Looking for some ideas - don't want to buy two eskys as I already have a lot of gear to take with me to the market.

 

[Nullnvoid]

Hey, Is it possible to use two of your plate chillers in a single esky in order to make it a 4 tap jockey box.

Would it work with one plate on the bottom, some ice, and then a second plate? Looking for some ideas - don't want to buy two eskys as I already have a lot of gear to take with me to the market.

"Pablo", Midnight's esky has this. There is just one plate on top of another and it works fine. Both are silicones in to the bottom.

 

[WEF]

View attachment 116256


@WEF you need to be logged into your account, you add the items to your cart. Once the items are in your cart you can move them to your wishlist.

Champion... Thanks for that, it would be great if we could add the "coming soon - but out of stock" items to the wish list. BTW that's a beer gut to be proud of if it's yours? You've put a lot of hard work into it!

 

[Ferment8]

any ideas on when the thermowell for the fermzilla might be in stock?

 

[fdsaasdf]

Hey, Is it possible to use two of your plate chillers in a single esky in order to make it a 4 tap jockey box.

Would it work with one plate on the bottom, some ice, and then a second plate? Looking for some ideas - don't want to buy two eskys as I already have a lot of gear to take with me to the market.

Yes, I do this and it works perfectly - can stretch it out to 5 taps from the one jockey box as I can fit a 9L keg next to the pair of chill plates.

 

[Ferg]

Question on the brewzilla 65 pump. First brew and I was chilling my wort through your counter flow chiller with a hose on the outlet rising approximately 1m into my fermentation tank. The flow was at a trickle taking approximately 40minutes to cool a 40l batch. Do you reckon I had a blockage in my chiller or would the pump struggle under these circumstances? Is there a retrofittable pump that has more pressure to cope? I did try backflushing the cooler and didn't appear to have a blockage...

Bump @KegLand-com-au

 

[beer gut]

Champion... Thanks for that, it would be great if we could add the "coming soon - but out of stock" items to the wish list. BTW that's a beer gut to be proud of if it's yours? You've put a lot of hard work into it!

@WEF my avatar is a character from the Canadian sitcom Trailer Park Boys, check it out it’s on Netflix.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Thanks for the reply, but as I've mentioned before I really want TC adaptors to be able to use a full range of TC gear, not because it's necessarily more sanitary than your current seals. But specifically I don't like the dump valve and collection bottle arrangement, I want to be able to run my own plumbing from the bottom for controlled drainage / dumping and closed-loop CIP. Also I want to be able to use my TC spray balls and dry-hopping air-lock on the top port.

May I suggest for the top an adaptor to 4" TC which includes a PRV on the 5" side? Something similar to a 4" to 5" TC end cap reducer (not that these actually exist in this size to my knowledge, but that end-cap reducer layout), but with the 5" side whatever you need to mate with the neck and thread-cap, and the PRV on the 5" flat section. The PRV is clearly mandatory on a pressure vessel.

At the bottom I'd look to remove the valve completely and just have something from the base of the cone to a 2" or 1.5" TC port, as per any stainless conical vessel. I know you're catering to a broad market but I think you could expect a certain level of competence not to remove the bottom port from a pressurised vessel full of beer.

These adaptors would be for a fairly specific market, I don't have a view either way whether they should be plastic or stainless but I don't necessarily think you'd need to go the plastic = cheaper approach for an item like this, most people who would use this would be happy to pay stainless prices I suspect.

Cheers,

Ok let me have a look at this and get back to you. I am sure you can appreciate that we have had quite a high bill for tooling and R&D over the past 12 months but if this is really what you guys want we will spend some time to evaluate a couple different tri-clover options for you.