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Aussie Home Brewer

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Grmblz

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Thanks for the advice guys. So we need a coming soon status by the sounds of it. I will talk to the web designer about this and see what we can do. We are planning a major website overhaul at the moment so it's something that we will probably implement in this overhaul.
Bout bloody time, your website reminds me of a Tafe "how to" project, to be expected perhaps given the circumstances and good to see you're acknowledging the short comings. Seriously though, if you're now having prob's with duo's and phosphoric isn't it about time you considered a different "engineering" plastic. Not mentioning names but I've got push in's from a couple of other suppliers and haven't had a problem in 5 yrs no matter what they've been subjected to, maybe the bottom line shouldn't be the only consideration. Still love what you have done/doing for Australian H/B.
 

chargrille

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Has anyone had the fermzilla collection container explode?

Mine did this morning, and I reckon it was due to-

1. Allowing to fill with trub for first ferment to no more activity.
2. Closing dump valve, leaving overnight to settle.
3. Woken by thump and mess everywhere!

So, it would seem that the dump valve is pressure proof to at least 20PSI (still held in top tank). However, the collection container mixture was probably still slightly active and building pressure, with no blow valve.

Just thought it might be worth sharing.
At least a new container is cheap + the brew itself was OK!
 

KegLand-com-au

www.KegLand.com.au - A Land of Stainless Steel
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I am just starting out learning about balancing a Co2 setup and the info online only has resistance for vinyl & polyethylene tube..
  • 3/16″ ID vinyl tubing = 3 psi/ft
  • 1/4″ ID vinyl tubing = 0.85 psi/ft
  • 3/16″ ID Polyethylene tubing = 2.2 psi/ft
  • 1/4″ ID Polyethylene tubing = 0.5 psi/ft

  • I can only find in the EVA 5mm ID product description "you will need to use about 3-4 meters of beer line to get adequate flow resistance"
What is the resistance of the EVA Barrier 4 & 5mm ID Tubes
Thanks
Michael
Hello Michael. The first thing is "stay away from mono barrier polyethylene tube". Polyethylene is a very porous tube and although it's commonly used for water and if you had been in contact for a very short period then you might get away with it. With that said your beer will stay much fresher in EVABarrier which has orders of magnitude lower oxygen and co2 transmission rate so it will keep you beer fresher for much longer. Polyethylene will effect beer quality and it will be noticeable even after a couple days.

Vinyl tubing is
Also as was said above, the ability to add out of stock items to wishlist would be great also..

thanks for that. We will have a look at that and see if this is something that we can change. I would agree it's a bit annoying.
 

onemorecell

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Seriously though, if you're now having prob's with duo's and phosphoric isn't it about time you considered a different "engineering" plastic. Not mentioning names but I've got push in's from a couple of other suppliers and haven't had a problem in 5 yrs no matter what they've been subjected to, maybe the bottom line shouldn't be the only consideration. Still love what you have done/doing for Australian H/B.
Should you engineer something to withstand non-standard conditions?
I.E. if you mix starsan correctly, you won't have an issue - so why engineer something for someone that isn't following instructions? Sure that one guy gets a product that suits him better, but everyone else has to stump up more cash for a useless feature, because they were able to measure out 1/4tsp per litre. I don't think that's worthwhile (maybe for something important, but not for something like a beer fitting)
 

KegLand-com-au

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I would like to see a local immersion chiller similar to the JaDeD Hydra without the crazy price tag
https://jadedbrewing.com/products/the-hydra
It's unlikely we get into this at the moment. Yes this is an efficient immersion chiller but if we feel that our chiller here is just as efficient and it's able to be used in a wider range of chemical cleaners because it's stainless not copper:
https://www.kegland.com.au/colossus-stainless-steel-counter-flow-chiller.html[URL]https://www.kegland.com.au/colossus-stainless-steel-counter-flow-chiller.html[/URL]

So at this stage we do not have plans to bring out more chiller designs. If you want a cheap one that works well we have this one:
https://www.kegland.com.au/wort-heat-exchanger-counterflow-chiller.html

Just make sure you do not use mains water pressure in the vinyl jacket. Other than that this copper one works really well.
 

Fro-Daddy

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They are both counterflow, not interested in that at all, hence the post about the JaDeD.
I don't like the fact that I can't tell how clean it is inside or give it a good scrub.

Also, not being able to use mains pressure on a chiller puts me off instantly.
 

JDB

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They are both counterflow, not interested in that at all, hence the post about the JaDeD.
I don't like the fact that I can't tell how clean it is inside or give it a good scrub.

Also, not being able to use mains pressure on a chiller puts me off instantly.
This might be out of order, but there is a guy in Brisbane (Designer Coils on FaceBook) making custom copper coils, has quoted $195 + postage for something very similar to the Hydra. Also have a couple of their own designs which look very good.
 

S.E

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Also, not being able to use mains pressure on a chiller puts me off instantly.
I would think you can use mains water with it and control the flow with a tap on the inlet side so not subjecting the vinyl outer to mains pressure as you would if you fitted the tap on the water outlet side.
 

KegLand-com-au

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They are both counterflow, not interested in that at all, hence the post about the JaDeD.
I don't like the fact that I can't tell how clean it is inside or give it a good scrub.

Also, not being able to use mains pressure on a chiller puts me off instantly.
The cleaning is reatively simple as it's a smooth coiled tube with relatively large diameter so it's not easy for stuff to hide in this. Its not like a plate chiller where you have many cracks for stuff to get blocked in. It's no less sanitary than any other brewery pipes in that regard.

For this cheap chiller here:
https://www.kegland.com.au/wort-heat-exchanger-counterflow-chiller.html
Just to be clear you can hook up your mains water to the inlet of this device but you simply have to make sure that you control the water flow from the inlet not the outlet. All of the chillers that we have ever been sold will require you to control the water flow somehow so you always need some ball valve adjustment. You just need to make sure you reduce the flow rate with the ball valve on the inlet of the chiller. So i dont see this as a constraint at all, its simply a matter of setting it up correctly in the beginning.

We do have this bundle that includes the extra fittings:
https://www.kegland.com.au/wort-heat-exchanger-counterflow-chiller-duotight-bundle.html
And if you want to attach your garden hose to this then you can screw these garden hose connectors on.

If we really get enough call for the hydra immersion chiller we will stock it but at this stage we are not really convinced that it's a good option. Happy to hear what you other guys have to say on this subject?
 

KegLand-com-au

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I would think you can use mains water with it and control the flow with a tap on the inlet side so not subjecting the vinyl outer to mains pressure as you would if you fitted the tap on the water outlet side.
Yes that is exactly correct.
 

Grmblz

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Should you engineer something to withstand non-standard conditions?
I.E. if you mix starsan correctly, you won't have an issue - so why engineer something for someone that isn't following instructions? Sure that one guy gets a product that suits him better, but everyone else has to stump up more cash for a useless feature, because they were able to measure out 1/4tsp per litre. I don't think that's worthwhile (maybe for something important, but not for something like a beer fitting)
I don't think a common household chemical such as bleach constitutes "non standard conditions" and there's always some poor bugger who throws a bit extra in just to be safe. Robust construction is neither useless or a "feature" perhaps you could argue fit for purpose but that is a whole different discussion, as for beer fittings not being "something important" what the hell are you drinking? Anyone that's ever lost a gas bottle ($75) or worse yet a brew ($ priceless) due to a faulty unimportant "beer fitting" would gladly have paid an extra $2 for it not to have happened.
 

onemorecell

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I don't think a common household chemical such as bleach constitutes "non standard conditions" and there's always some poor bugger who throws a bit extra in just to be safe. Robust construction is neither useless or a "feature" perhaps you could argue fit for purpose but that is a whole different discussion, as for beer fittings not being "something important" what the hell are you drinking? Anyone that's ever lost a gas bottle ($75) or worse yet a brew ($ priceless) due to a faulty unimportant "beer fitting" would gladly have paid an extra $2 for it not to have happened.
I don't use bleach to clean anything except my toilet, and even now we put on a new toilet seat and the instructions says not to use bleach because it damages the plastic... so I dunno what I'm gonna do with my bleach now.

I'm saying gas fittings aren't important because, in the scheme of things, they aren't. Something like a bridge, that's important. You can/should over-engineer a bridge to take more weight and survive rougher conditions than you expect it to.
 

Ferment8

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High density polyethylene
Used for bunding on acid bunds etc. Much better than general plastic. Usually food grade too.
 

Milhouse

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Has anyone had issues with the gas disconnects with integrated check valve (KL09010).

I bought one recently and it seems only to let a tiny amount of co2 through and the beer comes through at a trickle.

If i have two kegs connected on the same gas line, one through an inline check valve and conventional disconnect and one through the new one the pressure is far lower in the one with the new disconnect.
 
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