KegLand Questions and Answers

[KegLand-com-au]

The beer was carbonated in the kegmenter to 15psi, I transferred it to the dispensing vessel with only a slight pressure differential, but once the keg was full the duotight flow stopper leaked.

See the video on youtube for my example with the PET bottle:



I connected it to the PET bottle for testing as I didn't want to wait until another keg was filled. Essentially this is replicating the liquid level reaching the bottom of the gas in dip tube.

I pressurised the PET bottle to 15psi and then screwed the spunding valve all the way in. I then slowly wound the spunding valve out to allow flow.

It looks like the flow stopper won't work under a pressure of 15psi, even if the spunding valve is only just cracked enough to allow flow.

The float ball is clean, but has a slight seam on it from manufacturing.

Thanks for that video that really helps us. You might need more pressure difference over the float valve so you have enough pressure to push the float valve hard up against the seat to ensure it seals. At the moment the blowtie spunding valve is only just slightly open meaning you dont have much pressure over the float to develop enough pressure to activate the float to seal properly.

Can you try either removing the blowtie unit all together and see what your results are or allow more gas to escape using the blowtie.

Having such a slow flow through the blowtie will also mean that you have extremly slow flow rates during filling which is not ideal either. I think all you need is more of a pressure difference over the flow stopper.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Interesting tip, I can't recall if I was logged in or not (probably not by the sound of it) but the cart emptied within the hour.

Thanks for the feedback guys. We will see if we can work on a solution for this issue.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Yes thanks @KegLand-com-au and @goatchop41 for the replies.
When I said tracking I meant online order status tracking not delivery tracking - sorry for not being clear.

While KL have emailed an Invoice with pickup details, picked and packed quickly, it would be useful to have meaningful order status information online as many other suppliers do.

The updates should be received by email. If you are using gmail you might want to add us into your google contacts so we dont get blocked by spam filters. As soon as the order is packed and in the pickup lockers you will get an email confirmation from the warehouse stating that your order is ready for pickup and it will also give you the locker number and passcode. Did you get this information?

 

[Paulos]

@KegLand-com-au
I think it's already been mentioned before, but what are the chances of getting a "Wish list" added to the site?
I've tried adding stuff I want to basket but it eventually times out. I'm assuming it's due to automated stock controls etc.
I can't speak for everyone, but it would result in me buying more stuff as I wouldn't need to go digging to find everything again.

This would be great!

 

[altone]

The updates should be received by email. If you are using gmail you might want to add us into your google contacts so we dont get blocked by spam filters. As soon as the order is packed and in the pickup lockers you will get an email confirmation from the warehouse stating that your order is ready for pickup and it will also give you the locker number and passcode. Did you get this information?

Yes as mentioned got the email and the order was packed and ready very quickly.
I only have easy access to email when at the home office but can check websites anytime,
I guess that is the main reason I like online order status information, many business suppliers provide this.
Things like processing payment, picked, packed, awaiting pickup etc.
Obviously as a relatively smaller enterprise you may only need something like processing and ready for pickup/shipped & delivered.
But still think it should be addressed when you have time (if that ever happens with all the new product releases)

 

[Engibeer]

Thanks for that video that really helps us. You might need more pressure difference over the float valve so you have enough pressure to push the float valve hard up against the seat to ensure it seals. At the moment the blowtie spunding valve is only just slightly open meaning you dont have much pressure over the float to develop enough pressure to activate the float to seal properly.

Can you try either removing the blowtie unit all together and see what your results are or allow more gas to escape using the blowtie.

Having such a slow flow through the blowtie will also mean that you have extremly slow flow rates during filling which is not ideal either. I think all you need is more of a pressure difference over the flow stopper.

Ok I'll try on Friday.

This is what the seam on the float ball looks like.

 

[desmogod]

From your perspective do you think you would pay $50-100 extra for this type of upgrade?

Not since you’ve been touting this as a feature of the V2 since you released the video and are now saying we need to pay more for it.
You’ve had the V2 on the site for months with a price tag and all the features (including being resistant to boiling water).

Probably a better course of action would have been to keep quiet about the product until it was in production and then announce it a month or so before release, this way customers don’t get invested in the product (which looks great) and then get disheartened and feel lied to when they are told they need to pay another $100 for all the features.
$130 is a great price for a fermenter.
$230? Not so much.

 

[awfulknauful]

Ok I'll try on Friday.

This is what the seam on the float ball looks like.
View attachment 114764

That seam definitely looks proud of the ball, how is that going to hold pressure? Unless your lucky enough to send the ball to its seat with the seam in a vertical position.

 

[bbqzookeeper]

Not since you’ve been touting this as a feature of the V2 since you released the video and are now saying we need to pay more for it.
You’ve had the V2 on the site for months with a price tag and all the features (including being resistant to boiling water).

Probably a better course of action would have been to keep quiet about the product until it was in production and then announce it a month or so before release, this way customers don’t get invested in the product (which looks great) and then get disheartened and feel lied to when they are told they need to pay another $100 for all the features.
$130 is a great price for a fermenter.
$230? Not so much.

Agree with this, but I will also happily pay $300 for the 50L fermenter with the better polymers. I have grown accustomed to watching my fermentation through the clear plastic and [if it's released], will have almost everything one could want. SO despite the logic of it's marketing, I will buy the product.

 

[Engibeer]

Also, the plastic joiners are too short, making it difficult to disassemble.

The push in fittings are touching when using the joiners - making it near impossible to get something thin enough, but sturdy enough, in the gap to disassemble the unit. I certainly didn't have anything readily on hand, nor the time or inclination to persevere with finding something suitable for disassembling it.

 

[Engibeer]

Thanks for that video that really helps us. You might need more pressure difference over the float valve so you have enough pressure to push the float valve hard up against the seat to ensure it seals. At the moment the blowtie spunding valve is only just slightly open meaning you dont have much pressure over the float to develop enough pressure to activate the float to seal properly.

Can you try either removing the blowtie unit all together and see what your results are or allow more gas to escape using the blowtie.

Having such a slow flow through the blowtie will also mean that you have extremly slow flow rates during filling which is not ideal either. I think all you need is more of a pressure difference over the flow stopper.

The thing about this is if you used 1-2psi for a closed system transfer after purging a keg with CO2, to avoid oxygen pickup, I can't imagine you've had dramas as this is what you have described as doing successfully?

 

[desmogod]

Agree with this, but I will also happily pay $300 for the 50L fermenter with the better polymers. I have grown accustomed to watching my fermentation through the clear plastic and [if it's released], will have almost everything one could want. SO despite the logic of it's marketing, I will buy the product.

I’d pay $200 for the 27L with the pressure cap and new polymer but only if the vessel was offered as an option and not an upgrade.
It’s pointless having a spare, useless vessel kicking around that I’d never use.

 

[bbqzookeeper]

I’d pay $200 for the 27L with the pressure cap and new polymer but only if the vessel was offered as an option and not an upgrade.
It’s pointless having a spare, useless vessel kicking around that I’d never use.

Ahh yep, onboard now. Plus who wants to increase their shipping costs?
The only thing I could think of was for those who wanted to make say, ginger beer, since I hear the ginger 'taints' everything. Having a spare fermenter just for that could appeal to that group of brewers.

 

[desmogod]

14:30 on the video on their website states they will be releasing the V2 with a new resin type that resists scratching and high temps.
To then go and tell us that this is a $100 “upgrade” is just a bit rude I think especially considering they have stated they’ll offer it all at the same price.
They really do need a marketing manager.
Plus Kegland have suggested this will reduce the need for hot cubing.
I’m unsure how they plan to take into account for the need for air ingress into the FV as the wort cools.
The entire point of using a cube is that it sterilises as it is put in.
As the wort cools and with the additional headspace in the fermentasaurus, you’ll have to use the PRV to let air in which defeats the purpose somewhat.

 

[sixfignig]

14:30 on the video on their website states they will be releasing the V2 with a new resin type that resists scratching and high temps.
To then go and tell us that this is a $100 “upgrade” is just a bit rude I think especially considering they have stated they’ll offer it all at the same price.
They really do need a marketing manager.
Plus Kegland have suggested this will reduce the need for hot cubing.
I’m unsure how they plan to take into account for the need for air ingress into the FV as the wort cools.
The entire point of using a cube is that it sterilises as it is put in.
As the wort cools and with the additional headspace in the fermentasaurus, you’ll have to use the PRV to let air in which defeats the purpose somewhat.

Buy another product then?

 

[goatchop41]

14:30 on the video on their website states they will be releasing the V2 with a new resin type that resists scratching and high temps.
To then go and tell us that this is a $100 “upgrade” is just a bit rude I think especially considering they have stated they’ll offer it all at the same price.
They really do need a marketing manager.
Plus Kegland have suggested this will reduce the need for hot cubing.
I’m unsure how they plan to take into account for the need for air ingress into the FV as the wort cools.
The entire point of using a cube is that it sterilises as it is put in.
As the wort cools and with the additional headspace in the fermentasaurus, you’ll have to use the PRV to let air in which defeats the purpose somewhat.

Hook it up to a little CO2. Sorts the problem of the negative pressure as it cools

 

[dkril]

Is there going to be a wider variety of duotight fittings available for the 9.5mm OD/6mm ID line? Some of my old beer lines is probably due for replacement,and that's the size of the existing hoses. I want to do a like for like replacement so I don't have to re-learn/reconfigure/recalibrate the system. I'd even consider replacing the old barbs with push in fittings, but there's almost no 9.5mm fittings with threads on them -- only 5/8" female and 1/2" male.

And a suggestion for the website: in the duotight section, almost every fitting has the same description of why duotight is a great system. But there's nothing to say what a particular fitting would typically be used for. When would one use a 8.5mm OD push in/1/4" NPT male fitting? Or a 5/8" BSP female fitting? Sure, I know the answers, but a lot of customers may not.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Ok I'll try on Friday.

This is what the seam on the float ball looks like.
View attachment 114764

Thanks for that. The flashing on the ball is fine. I am quite confident the problem you have is that you do not have enough of a pressure differential over the float valve. Once you have a bit more of a pressure difference on both sides of the red silicone float you will get the float push quite hard against the seat where it seals and the pressure will make it seal.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Hook it up to a little CO2. Sorts the problem of the negative pressure as it cools

Also one way to reduce the head space is to transfer absolutely everything from your kettle into the BrewZilla including the hops and hot break. This will settle into the cone as it cools. Once it's cold then you can easily remove this material right before you pitch yeast. When you remove these few litres you will then have some head space at the top of the fermenter. This is quite an efficient way to brew and it's a very efficient way to separate hot break and hops from the clear wort.

 

[KegLand-com-au]

Is there going to be a wider variety of duotight fittings available for the 9.5mm OD/6mm ID line? Some of my old beer lines is probably due for replacement,and that's the size of the existing hoses. I want to do a like for like replacement so I don't have to re-learn/reconfigure/recalibrate the system. I'd even consider replacing the old barbs with push in fittings, but there's almost no 9.5mm fittings with threads on them -- only 5/8" female and 1/2" male.

And a suggestion for the website: in the duotight section, almost every fitting has the same description of why duotight is a great system. But there's nothing to say what a particular fitting would typically be used for. When would one use a 8.5mm OD push in/1/4" NPT male fitting? Or a 5/8" BSP female fitting? Sure, I know the answers, but a lot of customers may not.

Yes we are continuing to expand the range of all the duotight fittings.

I should say that 9.5mm (3/8inch) is quite large for a kegerator system. Are you using a kegerator or an icebank/glycol chiller? What other threaded fittings would you like to see in the 9.5mm (3/8inch) size?

Thanks for that tip. Yes we have been a bit lazy with the descriptions. I will talk to the other guys about this and get them updated. You are right. We should probably tell people about how to use each fitting. This 8mm OD to 1/4 NPT fitting is useful for attaching directly to the body of a regultor, or installing into the end of a gas manifold for instance. The 1/4inch NPT thread is quite common in many of the gas fittings that we sell in particular.

The 5/8" Female fitting is best used on keg couplers and taps shanks and this can be seen in the video here:


With that said we could definitely do a better job of describing the fitting in the actual product description.