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onemorecell

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I must say this was not originally part of the plan as the keg washer is quite a bit different to something that you need to purge O2

As has already been pointed out the best way to purge o2 is to fill keg with sanitise to the brim then displace this with CO2. This is what myself and a number of the staff do here too. I am assuming the reason you dont like this option is you dont want to sit there waiting for the keg transfer to complete? Is that correct? Are you looking for an automated solution so you don't have to waste time watching sanitiser go from one keg to another.
yeah - just something easier/quicker/better
 

JDW81

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@KL

Are the dual regulators you've got up on your website still planned to arrive on the 8th of September?

How many are you getting in? It's certainly something I'd be interested in.

Cheers,

JD
 

KegLand-com-au

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On that topic, purging O2 by expelling liquid with bottled CO2 is not hard, but for some of us, commercially available "food grade" CO2 is not pure enough. Sure, it's fine to push out a keg of beer in a day or two, but inadequate for maintaining head pressure in a keg for a number of weeks.

I'd be interested in some kind of an O2 scrubbing system that can purify CO2 to have less than 5ppb of O2. And of course, I'm a tight arse and don't want to pay much. ;-)
This is not something that has been recognised as an issue generally speaking. That's not so say it's not a good idea. Reducing oxygen exposure will always improve beer quality. Probably the easiest/cheapest way would be to remove the very small residual oxygen is using a sacrificial scavenger. This is often an oxidising reaction and normally done with a metallic element. It would be expensive to have a high pressure vessel to react the agent on the high pressure side. So it would make more sense to do this on the low pressure side (after the regulator). The only problem is if you have it on the low pressure side the reaction would have to take place fairly quickly as the gas would presumably be passing over this chamber quite fast, or alternatively have a substantially large chamber to house the reacting agent for long enough that the contact time would be sufficient.

Can anyone else thing of any ideas on this topic? Would be keen to hear if someone has any good ideas for O2 scrubbing out there. Maybe a heated catalytic converter or something?
 

KegLand-com-au

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@KL

Are the dual regulators you've got up on your website still planned to arrive on the 8th of September?

How many are you getting in? It's certainly something I'd be interested in.

Cheers,

JD
Yes this date is still accurate. The main unknown variable is customs clearance time. We have allocated 1 day for customs clearance in the 8th September arrival date estimation.
 

JDW81

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Yes this date is still accurate. The main unknown variable is customs clearance time. We have allocated 1 day for customs clearance in the 8th September arrival date estimation.
Cheers, I'll keep an eye out.
 

KegLand-com-au

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yeah - just something easier/quicker/better
No worries at all. If you are looking for a quicker and better solution you may want to use one of these FOBS:

A lot of you guys probably don't realise that we do sell these FOBs:
https://www.kegland.com.au/fob-foam-on-beer-detector.html

These FOBs (foam on beer detectors) are generally used in commercial pubs to prevent an empty keg blowing foam up long beer lines and wasting a lot of beer. They often can pay themselves off in 2 weeks so they are generally a good investment for pubs or bars.

With that said these can also be used for pushing sanitiser from one keg to another and then cutting off the flow once the transfer is complete. It's probably a product you guys don't realise that this works well for this application. Would you like us to make a video on how to do this? This FOB is built for commercial application and is quite a heavy duty stainless unit. If we get a lot of request for this type of thing we could make a cheaper model for home brewers if you guys think you need a cheaper option.

This solution obviously requires no power and makes pushing sanitiser from one keg to another really fast.
 

DazGore

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All of the check valves that we sell will have an opening pressure. The opening pressure is normally between 1-3psi.

https://www.kegland.com.au/premium-...mfl-grey-gas-with-integrated-check-valve.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-8mm-5-16-x-one-way-check-valve-non-return-valve.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/duotight-9-5mm-3-8-check-valve-gas.html
https://www.kegland.com.au/one-way-check-valve-push-in-gas.html

So if you set the regulator at about 13psi then on the other side of the check valve you will have 1-3psi lower than this on the other side. Unfortunately this is how all these types of check valves work.

5psi opening pressure is too high so this doesn't seem correct. I should also say that some pressure guages do not have fantastic accuracy at very low pressures. So if you are using the 0-60psi gauge the pressures below 5psi are difficult to read accurately. We do have some gauges similar to this:
https://www.kegland.com.au/8mm-5-16-push-in-pressure-gauge-0-40psi.html
The only difference is these will have 0-15psi range. These are really far more accurate for these lower pressures.
@KegLand-com-au

Where/when can I get the 0-15psi gauge? Are they push fit too?

Thanks
 

ABG

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No worries at all. If you are looking for a quicker and better solution you may want to use one of these FOBS:

A lot of you guys probably don't realise that we do sell these FOBs:
https://www.kegland.com.au/fob-foam-on-beer-detector.html

These FOBs (foam on beer detectors) are generally used in commercial pubs to prevent an empty keg blowing foam up long beer lines and wasting a lot of beer. They often can pay themselves off in 2 weeks so they are generally a good investment for pubs or bars.

With that said these can also be used for pushing sanitiser from one keg to another and then cutting off the flow once the transfer is complete. It's probably a product you guys don't realise that this works well for this application. Would you like us to make a video on how to do this? This FOB is built for commercial application and is quite a heavy duty stainless unit. If we get a lot of request for this type of thing we could make a cheaper model for home brewers if you guys think you need a cheaper option.

This solution obviously requires no power and makes pushing sanitiser from one keg to another really fast.
Can you post a video showing how this works? I'm not running a pub, but would be interested if theres' an advantage in terms of keeping O2 more easily out of my beers.
 

KegLand-com-au

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I'm still waiting for the video of the grain mill which was promised 12 months ago.

https://www.blackwoods.com.au/valve...auge-dbs-stl-0-100kpa-non-oxy-63mm/p/00043805
Not a Mickey Mouse one, will also show how accurate the valve is too.
Yes we will do this soon but closer to when the stock arrives. If we generate too much interest for the product before it comes in then customers tend to get annoyed because the product is out of stock. So I think in future we will should probably avoid talking too much about these products so long before they are released and then just start talking about the product around once we have the solid release date. This might be less frustrating for customers.

The mill is still going to be released so you can rest assured that this is on the way and so is the video on this product too.
 

KegLand-com-au

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I'm still waiting for the video of the grain mill which was promised 12 months ago.

https://www.blackwoods.com.au/valve...auge-dbs-stl-0-100kpa-non-oxy-63mm/p/00043805
Not a Mickey Mouse one, will also show how accurate the valve is too.
Thanks for this link to the gauge. If you want a threaded one this will definitely do the job. We will also have a wider range of push in guages as an alternative too and these can be quite a bit faster and easier to use. At the moment we only have this 0-40 psi model but we do also have this same push in duotight compatible model in a 0-15psi and also a higher pressure one that will go up to about 100psi too.
 

Gillman

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Hey Kegland. I have a small question about your oven thermometer. How does it turn off? Or if it doesn't, how long will it last turned on? I've been taking the batteries out after each brew day, but that seems a bit weird.
- Ash
 

KegLand-com-au

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@KegLand-com-au
What's happening with the Wifi Fermentation Fridges?
These are coming along well. We have a few parts to this project.

1. The physical fridge body with heating, colour screen, circuit boards, various injection moulded parts etc. This is 80% completed at this stage.
2. The IOT Hub - This is the website that the fridges will connect to. This is 80% completed
3. The firmware on the processor in the device - This is 60% completed

It takes some time to design this stuff well so it can be upgraded down the track. Firstly so firmware updates work well but also so various other products can interface with the fermenting fridge later down the track. So we are also trying to forward thing several products to make after the fermenting fridge is completed but we don't really want to talk about this in too much detail just yet.
 

KegLand-com-au

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Hey Kegland. I have a small question about your oven thermometer. How does it turn off? Or if it doesn't, how long will it last turned on? I've been taking the batteries out after each brew day, but that seems a bit weird.
- Ash
I will find out and get back to you.
 

Meddo

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Hey KL, which elements do you recommend using on the 65L brewzilla on a 10A circuit? The sizing looks a bit funny with 500W + 2000W exceeding a standard 2400W load on such a circuit, and 500W + 1000W well underpowered?

Cheers,
 

KegLand-com-au

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Hey KL, which elements do you recommend using on the 65L brewzilla on a 10A circuit? The sizing looks a bit funny with 500W + 2000W exceeding a standard 2400W load on such a circuit, and 500W + 1000W well underpowered?

Cheers,
To be honest the BrewZilla 65L is really best used with the 15amp power socket so you can really get the most out of the brewery. It's difficult to do 50L boils with only 2400watts.

As you have suggested you can use the 500w and the 1000 watt or alternatively you can use the 2000 watt on it's own.

Another third option is that you can use this device:
https://www.kegland.com.au/4000w-power-station-240v-power-controller.html

Then you can plug the brewery into this. If you use the power station you can wind down the wattage to make it suitable for your 10amp wall socket. If you wanted to do this then you can buy this product so you can put the 15amp device into the 10amp wall socket https://www.bunnings.com.au/ampfibian-15a-to-10a-mini-d-i-y-power-adaptor_p7050104

Please bear in mind that this device will trip the breaker as soon as you go over 10amps.

So given how complicated and messy it is to run this unit on 10amp i would really highly recommend getting the 15amp GPO
 

camNZ

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These are coming along well. We have a few parts to this project.

1. The physical fridge body with heating, colour screen, circuit boards, various injection moulded parts etc. This is 80% completed at this stage.
2. The IOT Hub - This is the website that the fridges will connect to. This is 80% completed
3. The firmware on the processor in the device - This is 60% completed

It takes some time to design this stuff well so it can be upgraded down the track. Firstly so firmware updates work well but also so various other products can interface with the fermenting fridge later down the track. So we are also trying to forward thing several products to make after the fermenting fridge is completed but we don't really want to talk about this in too much detail just yet.
What's the internal dimensions going to be?
 
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