Kegging Setups

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What Every Kitchen Needs ;

Heres my Kegging setup it has a Stainless Bosch Fridge with 4 Celli stainless taps. The fridge can fit 5 kegs, I just need to set my gas lines up. I have a 4 block gas manifold ready to go in the fridge and the gas bottle can hook up through the side. The taps were a birthday present, Pretty cool birthday present I recon. Not going to put a drip tray on the fridge as I think it will detract from the look, and I don't think it needs one anyway, the Celli taps are pretty good and don't drip much so have just been using a towel or bar runner on the floor which seems to work fine. :icon_cheers:

Holes drilled
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Finished Product :beerbang:

View attachment 46809 View attachment 46808


Nice fridge, could you post an inside shot?
 
Fridge_1.jpg

Nice fridge and taps. Was looking at the finish in how the Celis come through the fridge front/attach to the shank.

I use SS shank collars, which might work ace in your finish:
Stainless-steel-collar-web.jpg

link

I don't see coupling collars in your setup? The length (protrusion) looks slightly uneven? These might fix you up:
Coupling-Collar-web.jpg

link

Overall, looks great.
reVox
 
Nice fridge, could you post an inside shot?

Thanks for the feedback I'm glad you liked it.
Haven't quite finished setting up inside yet as I still need to install the gas manifold and gas lines, and possible making the lines look a bit neater. You can't quite see it properly but I have managed to keep the pull out drawer on the bottom to store some bottles etc, and a tray in the door of the fridge. The kegs are sitting on a Aluminum plate which we cut to size as the original shelf was glass and not strong enough to hold 5 kegs. I will have to post a finish shot later when we get the gas set up.

inside_beer_fringe.jpg

Also thanks for the link ReVox great idea I do think the stainless would look better. The protrusion does look different in the picture but I can't notice any difference on the actual fridge. The front of the fridge is curved so it proble give a deceptive view in photos.
 
Finished off the drip tray cabinet just the other day. One tap is for soda and supplies the chilled water for the glass rinse/chiller. They share a drip tray and drain into a container under/behind the cabinet. There is a full level indicator that pops up when the container is close to full and needs emptying.

Pretty happy with it at the moment. A couple more little things to add to it and it should be done. Still have room for another tap & keg.

The wife still wants the white of the freezer covered so that it has an all timber look. There is always something else :blink:


:icon_chickcheers:

IMG_20110712_135225.jpg


IMG_20110712_154143.jpg
 
A question for those of you with chest freezer + collar kegerators.

What size shank do you have?

I'm about to order Perlick taps & havent yet bought the timber to make the collar, I'm ordering my taps from homebrew stuff and there's so many shanks in different shapes and sizes to choose from I'm confused!

Looking here:

http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-K.../118/Categories

and here:

http://www.homebrewstuff.com/servlet/the-K.../118/Categories

Will a 3 x 1/8 inch be long enough?

or should I get a 4 inch just to be sure? And what's with the different bore sizes, and nipple vs no nipple? I have NFI...

Cheers :)
 
Hey phoneyhuh. I had to get 4" shanks as I mad the collar out of F17? hardwood, 245mm x 45mm from memory. Big and chunky and probably to big but it sits nice and firm on the freezer. Some pine would be much easier to set up and no where near as thick when it comes to shanks. The size you're looking at will cover most applications (except mine)
I've not noticed different bore sizes before so can't comment there, the nipples are for attaching beer line. I use shanks without nipples and added john guest adaptors from Craftbrewer.
 
Just bought a new 155L chest freezer today. The plan is to build a collar & turn it into a three keg kegerator...

Question for you chaps with chest freezers: Where do you place the temperature probe for the temperature controller? I will be using an STC-1000. Currently I strap it to the side of a keg with electrical tape, but after a more permanent solution that doesnt require re-strapping each time I replace a keg.

Cheers.
My mate is a fridgey and he said the probe would be best to be in the keg. Obviously this would be a pain in the ass so I might just strap it to the side of the keg and insulate it somehow until I think of a better way or someone else does i'll probably just have to keep swapping from keg to keg as they mt.
 
Hey phoneyhuh. I had to get 4" shanks as I mad the collar out of F17? hardwood, 245mm x 45mm from memory. Big and chunky and probably to big but it sits nice and firm on the freezer. Some pine would be much easier to set up and no where near as thick when it comes to shanks. The size you're looking at will cover most applications (except mine)
I've not noticed different bore sizes before so can't comment there, the nipples are for attaching beer line. I use shanks without nipples and added john guest adaptors from Craftbrewer.

Thanks razz!

I just measured everything up and my collar will be up to 2.95" thick, so I'm thinking a 4" shank just to be sure..

No nipples & John guest adapters seems like the way to go too! Just paid $20 for four, delivered from the UK!

Cheers :)
 
Close to 3" is pretty thick and I doubt that 4" shanks will be long enough, by the time you deduct a bit on each end for the adaptor and the tap coupler you may run short. I'll pop out to the shed and check on mine.
Edit. Okay, by the time you allow the tap coupler, plastic surround behind coupler then inside the freezer is the brass back nut then the adaptor there is 18mm of thread visible, and that is mounted on 45mm hardwood, so maybe 63mm timber max.
 
Actually, after looking at dozens of other collars on here, I've had a change of plan...

The actual collar width that the taps will be going through is only 38mm (1.49 inch) thick. So this 3" SS shank should be fine I reckon :) (or the equiv Chrome shank for $5ea less, decisions decisions)
 
Actually, after looking at dozens of other collars on here, I've had a change of plan...

The actual collar width that the taps will be going through is only 38mm (1.49 inch) thick. So this 3" SS shank should be fine I reckon :) (or the equiv Chrome shank for $5ea less, decisions decisions)
Having had chrome shanks, I say pay the extra for SS... The chrome comes off eventually and the SS are easier to clean... you can be as rough as you like without fear. Even if the 3" are a bit too short, you could always countersink them to gain a bit of thread. I'd probably play it safe and go with the 4", but that's just me... I have no problem paying a little more to make my life a little easier.
 
Here is my stupid question!

Should i use silicon under the collar to seal it to the freezer and stop cooling loss or should I be doing something else?
 
i used a foam strip i got from clark rubber that has an adhesive side and just sat the collar on top.

cheers,

Stewart
 
i used a foam strip i got from clark rubber that has an adhesive side and just sat the collar on top.

cheers,

Stewart

Same - have the strip all the way around the top and underside of the collar for sealing to the freezer and lid. I haven't secured it in any way to the freezer but the weight of the lid and collar are enough to stop it from moving around too much. I will probably run a bead of silicone on the inside just to help secure it at some stage.
 
Just finished my kegging setup tonight. Enjoying a fresh pint as i type. Awesome.
She'll have all 4 kegs inside, and gas bottle outside when i fill my other 2 kegs.

Fridge_Full.jpg
Taps_close.jpg
Open_working.jpg
 

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