Kegging Setups

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I think one is 440 Litre and the other is a bit smaller. Basically I had the bigger one as my keg fridge and then acquired a slightly smaller fridge and which was in slightly better nic (and cheaper to run), and decided that the larger one I would use for fermenting with a Fridgemate temp controller.

Both have appropriate holes for screwing a tap straight on and a gas line into the fridge.

Cheers,

SJ

check pm's mate ;)
 


Just got my celli chrome tap, in and out Quick disconnects, co2 charger + bulbs, beer line and other doo-dads

im pretty excited :-D

now all ive gotta do is find something to put it all in. there was a beige laundry hamper at mitre10 but not sure about that. Need something that will hold the weight of the tap.

I opted for this equiptment cos, while at the moment i can only use it as a party keg and what not cos i live with my parents and theres no room in the fridge, the 2 most expensive things - tap and keg - are reusable when one day i have a beer fridge set up *dreams*

anyway my question. Im planning on priming the beer in the keg and leaving it for 2 weeks. so around 7grams of dex per L. How much co2 (im using 16gm bulbs) do i need to dispense my beer.

my celli tap has a flow restrictor in it, so how much beer line will i need? will 40-50cm be long enough?

Thanks
gerald
 
You'll need enough beer line to make it easy to pour - no more than that since you have the flow restrictor tap. Basically have as much or as little beer line as you like.

If you're using CO2 bulbs you just need to give it a quick squirt every now and then as your pour begins to slow.

I'd strongly recommend getting at least a bar fridge that will fit a keg or two. Using it as a party keg with ice is fine for serving but it will take at least 24hrs to chill down (more like 36-48 in my experience) and your carbionation and pressure levels will be all over the shop if its warm.
You should be able to find a suitable bar fridge for well under $100 on fleabay.

Looks like you're doing pretty well with your equipment but I think the bar fridge is the missing link to get you pouring (cold) beers and kicking back.
 
heres my rig: inside2.jpg

I can see a real problem (or can't see the safeguard in your picture)

In your last image, you show a CO2 manifold with (I assume) no non-return valves between kegs.

For those unaware of the possible issues, when the CO2 runs-out without you knowing and the temperature of the carbonated product rises, sticky substance can be forced out of the keg into the CO2 lines to cross-contaminate them and the other kegs and could clog-up the isolation valves and worse, the regulator diaphragm if it goes far enough.

A real PIA to rectify and leaving you wishing you had installed the in-line non return valves from each keg.

I got mine from Lancer Pacific.

non_ret.jpg
 
I can see a real problem (or can't see the safeguard in your picture)

In your last image, you show a CO2 manifold with (I assume) no non-return valves between kegs.

For those unaware of the possible issues, when the CO2 runs-out without you knowing and the temperature of the carbonated product rises, sticky substance can be forced out of the keg into the CO2 lines to cross-contaminate them and the other kegs and could clog-up the isolation valves and worse, the regulator diaphragm if it goes far enough.

A real PIA to rectify and leaving you wishing you had installed the in-line non return valves from each keg.

I got mine from Lancer Pacific.

View attachment 21186

Hey Carbonator,

Do you remember aprox how much each valve cost you?
I am looking for some of those in the very near future.

Gregor
 
Quick disconnect style check valves are also available from Craftbrewer and possibly other sponsors in the sponsor bar above.
 
Do you remember aprox how much each valve cost you?
I am looking for some of those in the very near future.

I think they were about $15 each back in 2003.

Part number 703513, 1/4", 6mm check valve according to the Lancer catalog.
The 1/4" would be the thread where it screws into the reg and the 6mm would be the tube size

I'm kind of remembering my CO2 line contamination happening to me once when I ran out of CO2 and a full keg back-flowed into the CO2 lines. Then I got the valves after that.
 
This is how I clean my Celli's after every session.

Tap_clean.jpg
 
I can see a real problem (or can't see the safeguard in your picture)

In your last image, you show a CO2 manifold with (I assume) no non-return valves between kegs.

For those unaware of the possible issues, when the CO2 runs-out without you knowing and the temperature of the carbonated product rises, sticky substance can be forced out of the keg into the CO2 lines to cross-contaminate them and the other kegs and could clog-up the isolation valves and worse, the regulator diaphragm if it goes far enough.

A real PIA to rectify and leaving you wishing you had installed the in-line non return valves from each keg.

I got mine from Lancer Pacific.

Ur right. I was unaware.
I will have to invest into 4 seperate non return valves
 
Is it just hot water?

Its just cold water. If u do it straight after you have poured your last beer for the night cold water is all u need.
 
Its just cold water. If u do it straight after you have poured your last beer for the night cold water is all u need.


I have never cleaend out my taps the night after.

when i empty my Keg, i rinse it. Add bleach. run half a keg thru of bleach/water my lines. then rinse the keg thourghly. add clean water. run it thru the lines.
 
Bleach is a big no-no for stainless steel like kegs. The chlorine corrodes the stainless and will eventually create pinhole leaks.
 
have heard that said about caustic too bonj but thats what all the commercial food and beverage places use to clean their gear , i think if its rinsed out thoroughly anything is ok to clean stainless , ive had a stainless steel food pot corrode with the acids that came out of some vegies that were left in the just a bit too long , so i think its all about the after rinse be it bleach, caustic, acid or otherwise if ya leave it in there it might give ya grief but rinsed out i believe it will be ok ...
 
Bleach is a big no-no for stainless steel like kegs. The chlorine corrodes the stainless and will eventually create pinhole leaks.


I am aware of Bleach and stainless steel... However i figure that only minutes of contact time shouldnt be a problem.

Napisan and SS is bad as well isnt it?

I guess i could just do the same method with a beer cleaner..
 
Got a kegging setup for sale if anybody is interested? :)

See below for the items all in one lot for $200-00:

3 x 19 litre reco'd corny kegs (two have a smart strip temp and volume guage)
3 x MFL Gas QD's
3 x MFL Beer QD's
19 litre Keg parka
two way divider
non return valve
Brand new tube of Lubrafilm
various gas and beer lines (basically whatever i have!)

Send me a Pm anyone who is interested. :D

Cheers,

SJ
 
Got a kegging setup for sale if anybody is interested? :)

See below for the items all in one lot for $200-00:

3 x 19 litre reco'd corny kegs (two have a smart strip temp and volume guage)
3 x MFL Gas QD's
3 x MFL Beer QD's
19 litre Keg parka
two way divider
non return valve
Brand new tube of Lubrafilm
various gas and beer lines (basically whatever i have!)

Send me a Pm anyone who is interested. :D

Cheers,

SJ

PM sent :)
 
Got a kegging setup for sale if anybody is interested? :)

See below for the items all in one lot for $200-00:

3 x 19 litre reco'd corny kegs (two have a smart strip temp and volume guage)
3 x MFL Gas QD's
3 x MFL Beer QD's
19 litre Keg parka
two way divider
non return valve
Brand new tube of Lubrafilm
various gas and beer lines (basically whatever i have!)

Send me a Pm anyone who is interested. :D

Cheers,

SJ

you getting out of the game?
 
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