Imperial Triple 16%

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thanks for the ongoing discussion.
CM2, not sure how I would go aerating after a week or so, but I do have some effective, yet, controversial methods of wort aeration that I would be employing mid ferment, that I will never again be discussing on this forum.
Id be interested in hearing your methods. got a link to the thread? my methods are extremely complex. either shake the **** out of the fermentor or pour boiling water over my 'paint stirrer', attach to drill and let her rip. very sterile methods as you can see.

thanks for the ongoing discussion.
Smurto.. Eisbier is revolting.
I had a couple of not bad ones at vicbrew the other week. they can be revolting but dont have to be.
 
The problem is that then, the ferment can ealiy get out of hand, so you need very good cooling control, otherwise yourll end up with acetaldehyde soup, my compost has had 40 L of failed barely wine on it in the last few years, due to this
I am sorry for your loss.
 
If you have smaller cubes you could use, you should just be able to split the batch at no-chilling time.
I had a bit of a read in Mosher last night, and +1 to a big lot of yeast. Even a whole yeast cake would not be out of order.
T.

The problem is that then, the ferment can ealiy get out of hand, so you need very good cooling control, otherwise yourll end up with acetaldehyde soup, my compost has had 40 L of failed barely wine on it in the last few years, due to this
unless you treated the cubs of wort as a 'sugar addition' and slowly added it to the primary fermentor. that should assist in keeping ferment under control. of course it does raise the issue of infection due to opening the fermentor lids more frequently....

that sux to loose 40L. a shame you dont have a still water purifer to make use of it.
 
Smurto.. Eisbier is revolting.

I dunno about this... probably shouldn't be a blanket statement.

When making an eisbeer it just accentuates the properties of the pre-eised-beer. That's to say, if it was not such a good beer to start with it'll probably make it worse. If it is a good beer to start with, it'll either bring out the flaws that went unnoticed, or bring out the elements that have made it a good beer in the first place.

So when making an eisbeer... make sure you're happy with the beer/sample before you do it...
2 roads to failure, but only 1 road to awesomeness!! Good eisbeers are great, bad ones are terrible.
 
I was brought back some teeeny weeeny eisbiers from Bavaria last year.
They were universally not tasty.
Having said that, I do not like much like port, celery or pork sausage, so, I beleive everyone has differing tastes.
 
ZING!
This month (??) BYO magazine has an article on brewing a 15% 15 year anniversary beer.
They dont seem to think it is that much of a hurdle.
 
ZING!
This month (??) BYO magazine has an article on brewing a 15% 15 year anniversary beer.
They dont seem to think it is that much of a hurdle.
ahh i hadnt go that far into the issue. Have a look at the barleywine section also. thats the article i was referring to.'
 
Alright stop
Attenuate and listen
Airlock is bubbling with a brand new addition....

You definitely need to create a video for that dubbing in your lyrics over Vanilla Eis.

@ Swinging Beef - No worries, each to their own. I have an aversion to belgian beers and weizens (yes, i know that may get me a 1 week ban on this forum). I've had a few very tasty eisbocks, one of which was on tap at a case swap a few years ago.
 
I have an aversion to belgian beers and weizens (yes, i know that may get me a 1 week ban on this forum).


:icon_offtopic: Sounds like an idea for a new thread... What styles do you hate dislike?... should open up for a bit of abuse
 
Re mashing temps for good attenuation. You were right with lower temps. 58-63 for 2 hours plus, will favour maltose for better fermentation. 70 only gives high dextrins and poor attenuation. Wyeast have a yeast from Thomas Hardy ale. Good for 20% plus they say. If you check with commercial enzyme companies, they can provide beta amylase enzyme for you to convert any dextrins to maltose. That will give good attenuation and a smaller malt/sugar bill for the same result. You will definately need the higher IBU's, as hop extraction with a high gravity is poor. I used a wyeast some years ago called eau de vie for a hi alcohol beer. It stalled at about FG1050. Ultra sweet. Over the next 5 years ended up FG 1030 and 17 to 18% abv. Deliicious, like liquer muscat.
Not everyone's taste. Have 1 bottle left @ 6 years of age.mmmmmmmm
 
Step mashing for a long period around 60 deg C will promote maltose production and a step up to 70 deg C will allow the alpha amylase to convert any remaining long starch chains into fermentable sugars...

This brew strong podcast covers the topic of enzymes and mashing temps: LINKY

Cheers :beer:
 
You can do it daz!. You have converted me into a high alc brewer!!, as your high alc beers are crackingly nice!.
 
Chuck in some fruit flavouring and make a Four Loko clone! :) \m/
 
A follow on from my article yesterday on brewing hi alc beer. My mistake on the yeast. It is not wyeast but Whitelabs WLP099 Super Hi Gravity. If you split the wort into smaller amounts and addto main ferment after each addition slows down, it will not overwhelm the yeast. Start fermentation with large starter and lower gravity wort of about SG1060, otherwise the yeast won't get started. The following additions ( well airated )will be hi gravity wort. Good luck.
 

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