Serial dilutionsMastersBrewery said:The issue becomes how the hell do you measure that? Honey refrac?
So in a reiterated mash would you run the same schedual saving mash off till mashing was completed or run the second/third iterations just at sac? And would ph adjustments take place at mash in of each iteration?MHB said:From personal experience, I would look at adjusting the mash temperature and perhaps pH to favor Beta Amylase. In very big beers (say <12%ABV) you can end up with a lot of non-fermentable residues in the beer.
The best results I have had were by following a mash schedule from Brewing Science and Practice, 4.2 Mashing Schedules; reportedly designed to give the most attenuateive wort possible.
In Germany highly fermentable wort may be made by using an exceptionally `intensive' temperature-programmed mash, with rests at
50 oC/30min.; 62 oC/45min.; 65 oC/45min.; 68 oC/30 min.; 70 oC/30 min.; 72 oC/15 min. and then mashing off at 73-74 oC This process takes 3.5-4 h.
Another case of having a Braumeister at the time and see what it could do, worked well and got a reasonably attenuateive wort.
Mark
Thanks for this pratts.Pratty1 said:Hey,
Above have covered the post questions but I'm interested in the hop schedule. It's seems really excessive for bittering additions? Achieving 100ibu without a single last addition seems blizzard with a somewhat dank hop like galena, it would be better served late.
As a suggestion only, take All the galena and add it at 5mins, if the Ibu is not high enough maybe at 10mins but definitely late in the boil.
Also Extend the boil to 90mins and use less centennial at 90mins to get 33ibu and then make a single middle addition with centennial at 45mins.
Maybe it's no chill.
Thanks Pratts, question though. If I still do a 90 min boil and add the same centennial as FWH instead of the 90 min mark, surely my IBU will be higher and not lower ?Pratty1 said:^ ^ That sure does appear much better than the previous schedule.
You still have 66IBU from bittering additions which is a lot and wont go unnoticed, certainly a good starting higher IBU beer. Next time, if you want to round that out a little, add the 90min as FWH ( first wort hopping). That is adding to the boil kettle @ 80c during the sparge. You will get a slightly lower bittering ~ 30ish however will be much smoother to the finished beer.
Will be interested to see how it turns out.
Keep the grams of centennial the same, just add them before and boil for 90mins. I've done a number of beers to see what the IBU bittering addition is like and found the FWH is less bitterness, more rounded which makes the perceived bitterness less.Goose said:Thanks Pratts, question though. If I still do a 90 min boil and add the same centennial as FWH instead of the 90 min mark, surely my IBU will be higher and not lower ?
Or are you suggesting I reduce the quantity to achieve same IBU contribution ? Or shortening the boil ?
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