High Temperature Brews

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The temperature you ferment at depends on the style of beer you are brewing.
For instance
Ale fermentation (using and ale yeast) average range 18-22c
Lagers average 10-12c (using a lager yeast) some funky belgians might go to 25 or even higher. Yeast themselves prefer a higher temperature but the beer quality suffers

The easiest way to make the whole weather thing go away is to ferment in a temp controlled fridge.

Also try a wet towell wrapped around the fermenter keep it wet and in a breeze (fan?) works best on low humidity days. You may want some sanitiser in the water as the towel can go mouldy.

From White labs-

The optimum temperature for yeast growth is 32 c. Yeast cell death occurs above 38 c. Why then, dont we ferment our beers then at 32 C, decreasing the time that it takes to make beer? Why do we make yeast work slower? Because what is best for yeast, is not best for beer. As they grow and multiply, yeast produces many compounds, the most noticeable of which are esters. As the temperature fermentation rises, more yeast growth occurs, and consequently more esters are produced. At 32 C yeast produce so much acetaldehyde (which tastes like apples) that the beer becomes undrinkable. The optimum ale fermentation temperature has been found to be 20 C (18-22). This temperature strikes the best balance between yeast growth and ester levels for most ale strains. For Hefeweizen-style beers, some brewers like to ferment above 26 C, which increases the level of banana- flavored esters produced by these strains. Most ale strains are unable to ferment or grow at 12 C, which is the most common lager fermentation temperature. This fermentation temperature greatly reduces the ester-forming ability of most lager strains, creating the clean flavour associated with lager beers. Ester levels are kept low, placing the emphasis on malt and hop flavors.

i found this very informative thank you sir
 
Its all cool, Im learning heaps so far off the site. Its taking me a long time to go through all the topics but Im getting there. Keep the good advice coming, I dont really think much about the scientific part of beer making, I just want a palatable beer that I can drink and serve to my friends. Once I find something that works I will brew it exclusively and probably buy a 2nd fermenter to "play" with.

Then you'll find another 1 that you like & buy a third fermenter to "play" with, then you'll find a third brew you like........

I'd recommend having a go at Dr Smurto's golden ale. I've currently dedicated my 60L fermenter & fermenting fridge (at 18 degrees) to it so hopefully I'll stop running out. I've got another fermenter for ginger beer & a third for experimenting. I really want to get a good dark ale recipe so I can have some ready for winter.
 
Im only on my second brew and im just using can + body brew + the yeast that comes with the can.
My first brew that I bottled 11 days ago that had the slightly high temperatures is Ok tasting so far and I know it will get better with a bit more time but it has hardly any fizz whatsoever, let alone a head.

Hi tom tom

OK tasting is a good start in just 11 days! :beerbang:
It is often difficult to convey all of the required information in a simple answer.
Unfortunatly lengthy explanations are often poo pooed in here so stop reading whenever you like

As you say your brews should improve with time in the bottle if stored in a cool dark place. Sure you want to get into them, we all do, just put 6 or 8 from each batch away, mark a few for 3 months, some for 6 months and some for a year. Go on to the next batch and soon you will have a stock of well aged beer.
Fizz, Not sure if this applies here but - assuming correct priming level, make sure that the bottle you are testing has been chilled to drinking temperature for a couple of days, A 20 minute freezer chill may not be enough time for all of the co2 to disolve into your beer and escapes with the cap. As for head formation and stability thats a very huge topic (and probably contentious)
But can be a problem associated with high levels of adjunct for instance, but also water chemistry, malt quality yeast...

The typical temperature ranges quoted for larger Fementations 10 - 12c ( but can be as low as 6C - bamforth Beer Tap in to the art and science) are for the express purpose of suppression of diacetyl and excessive ester production, this style of yeast does metabolise a greater range of sugars which helps to give us those crisp dry finnishes (Quedos MHB!). Raffinose is another sugar that comes to mind and for brewers these are important distinctions - even if the Bloody taxonimist's want to unite them due to cross mating ability.
The diaceytl rest (a slight raising of temperature for 24 to 48 hours) is to allow the yeast to re uptake diacetyl produced early in the ferment faster than it normaly would

It is for similar reasons that typical ale fermentations of 18-22 are for the suppression of excessive ester production - again strain dependant

Dont get me wrong, esters are an important part of the flavour of some styles. I particulay like a little Banana (iso amyl acetate - flavour threshold is 1ppm) in a wheat beer for instance. Some wheat yeast also produce a compound 4VG (4 vinly guaiacol)which has a "band aid " taste not my favourite.
Ester production is also increased as the gravity of the wort is increased For example take the ester Ethyl Acetate (solvent like, fruity, metho taste) the taste threshold is 25mg/l
A 1040 wort produces 19mg/l a 1080 wort produces 51mg/l at the same temperature!

In the case of diacetly, which has a Buttery, butterscotch to caramel nose, it causes can include

  1. Inadequate Maturation
  2. Poor yeast
  3. Bacterial spoilage - Pediococcus , Lactobacillius
Its removal is hastened by increased temps (diacetyl rest) and high yeast count (perhaps rousing yeast?).
Big brewers dont like diacetyl because of the possible association with Infection and is not judged favourably in many beer styles

Thats enough I can feel the posting police fuming as it is
 
i thought id add my method of keeping my fermenter cool to this thread

i just put an old t-shirt over the whole frementer making sure to have the crew neck collar of the t-shirt pushed down into the recess of the lid of the fermenter, then i place one or two frozen blocks of ice (made from water in take away food containers) on the top of the fermenter (either side of the airlock bubbler) and let them melt, the t-shirt acts in a wick effect and the tshirt soaks up the ice water and it covers the whole fermenter and keeps my fementer at 16-18 degrees consistantly.

depending on the weather i usually replace the ice blocks twice a day, 3 times if its really hot, (once in the morning once after work and once before bed)

oh and i sit my fermenters in a big storage container like this one http://images.ecommetrix.com/commerce/55/A...ish%20Crate.jpg i empty the water from it once a week and sterilise the tap and top of the fermenter once a week oh and change the shirts once a week as well
 
Pyrobrewer that is awesome mate. I have read a lot but still just learned heaps you are a champ
thanks heaps
 
Pyro, thanks for the advice about chilling the beer for longer before i try to drink it. Im pretty impatient. 2 hours in the fridge, no wonder Im not getting results yet from my 11 day old beer. I guess I will bite the bullet for a few weeks and keep drinking shop bought beer. I told the missus I need more bottles so its a win/win situation!
 

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