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If the mash and recirculated wort temperatures are pretty much the same, then your flow is sufficient.
If the flow becomes too restricted then you lose heat faster than it can be added by the recirculated wort - which can still only be around your set temperature, not any hotter.
More flow is always good, so long as your manifold/grain bed will allow it - more flow will reduce the temperature difference between your mash and the output of the heat exchanger.
Sounds like your setup is flowing enough to be good.


I expected that would be the case.

Just on a quick calc, a full cycle of my entire mash-in liquor volume minus 1L/kg grain absorption is approx 5 minutes given my estimated flow rate. I guess that doesn't sound too bad. As long as the tun is able to hold the mash at that set temperature constant for 5 minutes (which it should be unless it was made out of ice) and all things being peachy (mash tun thermal efficiency, no channelling etc), is it safe to assume that the temperature differential throughout the mash should have hit equilibrium after 5 minutes of reaching a stable reading of the set temp on the PID?
 
I expected that would be the case.

Just on a quick calc, a full cycle of my entire mash-in liquor volume minus 1L/kg grain absorption is approx 5 minutes given my estimated flow rate. I guess that doesn't sound too bad. As long as the tun is able to hold the mash at that set temperature constant for 5 minutes (which it should be unless it was made out of ice) and all things being peachy (mash tun thermal efficiency, no channelling etc), is it safe to assume that the temperature differential throughout the mash should have hit equilibrium after 5 minutes of reaching a stable reading of the set temp on the PID?

It doesn't take long to get a stable set temp on the pid dependent on the size of the herms unit and how much of a temp increase you are aiming for, as for a stable and uniform reading throughout the mash that again depends on numerous factors, flow rate, size and thickness of mash and also wort volume. You're raising temp on a far larger volume in the mash tun than you are in the HERMS so of course the mash tun will take longer to equalize.
Each different brew you do can and will have some slight variances in time to stabilize the mash temp so I think there is really no set time that you can rely on.My mash can take anything from 5-10 minutes to stabalize at the same temp as the herms depending on the variables listed above.
 
Scored these from a hydraulics supplier today to fit to the top of my coil. SS compression fittings onto brass sleeves and elbows. Freakin awesome.. :D

photo__1_.JPG
 
Mine were from a hydraulics repairer we use and were free of charge because I give them a lot of work. He said the compression fittings were about $30 each.

You could probably get them through Enzed, Pirtek, one of those.
 
Scored these from a hydraulics supplier today to fit to the top of my coil. SS compression fittings onto brass sleeves and elbows. Freakin awesome.. :D

View attachment 53819

I would have thought that using brass fittings would negate the need to use a stainless coil inthe first place.
Relating to flushing with acid/caustic etc.
Not stirring, just a thought.

Cheers
 
Mine were from a hydraulics repairer we use and were free of charge because I give them a lot of work. He said the compression fittings were about $30 each.

You could probably get them through Enzed, Pirtek, one of those.

Are they 12mm or 1/2" BSP compression fittings.

If they are 1/2" BSP, aaron posted a pic showing to replace the ferrule with 0-rings.
 
I would have thought that using brass fittings would negate the need to use a stainless coil inthe first place.
Relating to flushing with acid/caustic etc.
Not stirring, just a thought.

Cheers


I can only comment from my experience, but copper seems to go shitty (scientific term) quickly, while brass wont as quickly. So I'm happy for brass, but would rather keep the copper used to the minimum. As you mentioned you can't use caustic, but PBW is all I use. I wish I could afford all S/S gear.

Picked up my new compression fittings today, bling!

180420121025.jpg
 
I would have thought that using brass fittings would negate the need to use a stainless coil inthe first place.
Relating to flushing with acid/caustic etc.
Not stirring, just a thought.

Cheers

You have a point but I have a mixture of brass and stainless fittings on all my taps. Unfortunately using stainless on all my fittings would cost me a fortune.
But im swapping over to stainless one fitting at a time.

He supplied me the brass fittings because he couldn't get SS but Ive got similar in SS that I will most probably use.
 
I can only comment from my experience, but copper seems to go shitty (scientific term) quickly, while brass wont as quickly. So I'm happy for brass, but would rather keep the copper used to the minimum. As you mentioned you can't use caustic, but PBW is all I use. I wish I could afford all S/S gear.

Picked up my new compression fittings today, bling!

View attachment 53820
What is the olive size and how much each ?
Nev
 
hmm, think it will 2 x $0.80 bunnings stainless pipe clamps and heavy duty silicone.
 
Nev,

Any word on the controller?

Andrew
Yes, next Monday I roll out this ! With the relevant cords and sensor attached.
We have been playing with cosmetics. loosing the black stuff around the screen and going for a stainless surround. Bit of Bling !
Nev
Ed and the decals will be level :lol:
Hermcontroller.JPG
 
where are those "hermit brew rig threads" not the coil thread ?

i cant find them ?

please help
 
What's the ballpark price Nev? Or is that a closely guarded secret till Monday?
 
Yes, next Monday I roll out this ! With the relevant cords and sensor attached.
We have been playing with cosmetics. loosing the black stuff around the screen and going for a stainless surround. Bit of Bling !
Nev
Ed and the decals will be level :lol:
View attachment 53821

cool, I'll be looking forward to reading the specs ect.

Andrew
 
What's the ballpark price Nev? Or is that a closely guarded secret till Monday?
A tad under $300 for the controller first " limited "release.
A few specs to wet the appetite :
12VDC outlet for HERM-IT pump.
240V 10A AC for HERM-IT HX.
SSR 10A
5 stage user defined Temp/Time adjustments.
PID , user adjustable built into software.
Our proprietary developed HERM-IT software on a Atmel chip.
Made in Australia :eek:
Nev
 
A tad under $300 for the controller first " limited "release.
A few specs to wet the appetite :
12VDC outlet for HERM-IT pump.
240V 10A AC for HERM-IT HX.
SSR 10A
5 stage user defined Temp/Time adjustments.
PID , user adjustable built into software.
Our proprietary developed HERM-IT software on a Atmel chip.
Made in Australia :eek:
Nev

Damn, I was hoping for 2 x 240v 10 amp outlets for the HX and for the HLT with another 240v for my march.

I don't want much hey <_<
Sounds great otherwise.

Andrew
 

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