GUTEN

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I didnt get that message. Maybe she doesnt like me after i asked for a replacment pump :D I looked at them online though and they look pretty good.
 
Nothing to do with that nosco, I am the only one Sandy has told and I got a second email saying to keep it a secret as even their customers don't know,
I did wonder why it would be wanted to be kept a secret, realistically they should be pleased to get it out there. So now I am thinking how much like the Grainfather conical it's going to be.;)
 
Hi guys! Awesome to see the mods you guys are doing. Look forward to learning with the rest of ya!
 
Anyone build a modified pick up for the pump for the Guten yet? Working through some random bits I got laying around. Seen some of you have used the drain of the valve as a pick up which was what I wanted to do originally.

The blichmann hop blocker with a Whirlpool never clogged on me on my larger setup.

How about raising the pick up 100mm or so? Or raise it just enough for the grain basket to fit then do 90 degrees?
 
This is what I have been playing around with, odd size and not a perfect hole for the inlet so a piece of silicone tube, the cut off from the helix and an end cap.With the helix being straight and tightly compressed I could almost guarantee nothing getting past it, trouble is with it being towards the centre it could block but a piece of copper tube running to the edge and picking up from there would be far better.


My brew at the weekend where I took some figures are as follows 5.5 kg MO & 0,200 kg Vienna dough into 24 litres of water 90 minute mash, lauter 3 litres, loss to grain was 5 litres added another 3 litres of water 25 litres 75 minute boil, should have added an extra 2 litres pre boil gravity would have allowed it.
Lost 5 litres to boil set on 2,000w with hood on, and it was a vigorous boil, 180 gram of hops but the helix kept them out of the FV, and put to use the old filter after cutting it down.


 
Weal,

I assume this fits into the pump drain hole? allowing you to use the pump even with hop sludge in the kettle? are you doing this so you can use the pump for whirlpooling?

This is what I have been playing around with, odd size and not a perfect hole for the inlet so a piece of silicone tube, the cut off from the helix and an end cap.With the helix being straight and tightly compressed I could almost guarantee nothing getting past it, trouble is with it being towards the centre it could block but a piece of copper tube running to the edge and picking up from there would be far better.
 
Was thinking initially along the lines of people who would prefer to brew with the unit on the floor and empty from the pump, ideal place for the pump inlet would have been where Robobrew have theirs close to the edge, with the Guten a line would have to run back to the edge and use the helix as we are now. I could try it with the short helix length as in the pic if it got blocked I could still empty from the tap. The only downside I can see is the fine particles would not be able to be filtered out when recirculating as the helix would prevent this, so instead of the particles being dumped on the top of the grain bed they would stay in the dead space.
 
My brew at the weekend where I took some figures are as follows 5.5 kg MO & 0,200 kg Vienna dough into 24 litres of water 90 minute mash, lauter 3 litres, loss to grain was 5 litres added another 3 litres of water 25 litres 75 minute boil, should have added an extra 2 litres pre boil gravity would have allowed it.

May well be a stupid question but why are you adding make up water prior at the start of the boil because all you are then going to do is boil for longer/harder to get to you target volume into your fermenter. Couldn't you add it just prior to the end of the boil if you were concerned about needing to sanitise it. I understand the need to boil for a set time etc but boiling a bit less volume would require less heat/energy input.

Maybe I'm missing something

Wobbly
 
No you're right, although the energy needed wouldn't be much more, I was documenting the boil off rate for the Guten as yet I haven't done any figures and with the choice of wattage the last boil I did was at 2,100w and the boil off was more. Though this boil seemed very aggressive and the only thing I had done differently was wrap one of those car sun visors around it as it was a cold day.
 
If you have the wattage most likely not an issue but with my 29lt Braumeister the greater the boil volume the longer it takes to reach boiling point (100C) and then it is only just a gentle roll and I have found that if/when doing a full volume mash (no sparge) that it adds quite a bit of time to the brew boil phase.

I guess the question I should be asking is, within reason why is boil off rate so important. As above I understand the need to have sufficient boil off to get rid of DMS etc but I don't understand the need to have to boil off anything over say 8% and I never understood why guys with gas fired systems strive to have a really really strong boil with evaporation rates in the high teens

Cheers

Wobbly
 
What I have been reading lately wobbly is 75 minute hard boil (which we don't get in a BM) for full hop bitterness utilisation, I know how the BM performs and I want to know the Guten better, I am happy with the boil at 2000w but wanted to know what I am losing to the boil, hood on, and hood off, what I am losing to grain absorption plus the efficiency of a no sparge. Trouble with that is I can't dump grain knowing there is still sugar in there, even though it would benefit the compost heap more.
 
Water boils at 100C at sea level and that we cant change no matter how hard we try and from there on if you are putting more energy in to get a more aggressive boil what you are achieving from the vigorous boil is greater "boil off" not hotter temperatures. So from your reading I conclude that it's the "agitation" from the "aggressive boil" for the full 75 mins that results in the "full hop bitterness". If this is the case then putting our hops in hop socks/sieves etc would appear to be a backward step. That is one of the reasons I obtained the helix from you to use in my Brau instead of the hop sieve when I get back home
I understand your current research/trials is to enable you to understand how your GRUTEN performs and I'm with you about not dumping sugar into the compost heap!!

Wobbly
 
^^ Temperature is neither here nor there; your equation is power/volume/elevation/properties of what is being heated. A rolling boil is what does the job. Heat and agitation are required for both hop utilisation and removal of DMS there are high altitude breweries that can only boil in the low 90's, however they still attain proper DMS removal and hop utilisation with standard boil off rates.

Don't know how far this could be pushed at the edge of the stratosphere I'm pretty sure there'd be an issue or two.... anyone who picked up a surplus B52??... who has some spare time and fuel be glad to hear some real world stats.o_O
 
^^ Doesn't change the point that I made and the circumstances that most/all of us brew under with a very very few exceptions so your points are noted and for the sake of discussion irrelevant

Wobbly
 
Don't know how far this could be pushed at the edge of the stratosphere I'm pretty sure there'd be an issue or two.... anyone who picked up a surplus B52??... who has some spare time and fuel be glad to hear some real world stats.o_O

I'm pretty sure I heard that is the next Brulosophy exbeeriment. Unfortunately I also heard that despite having a whole 4 tasters onboard they couldn't obtain a statistically significant result.
 
Multi tasking yesterday while doing two different stouts last stout coming to end of boil when I went out into the yard and saw the boil over, stayed with it early on to keep an eye out for a boilover so thought it would be OK.
Only on the 2000w but the hood makes a big difference.
Found for me the best thing is to put it on manual to get it up to around temperature first thing, have breakfast etc then go and set up the program, just wish it would mark time like the BM.
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