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GUTEN

Discussion in 'Gear and Equipment' started by wide eyed and legless, 1/3/17.

 

  1. krz

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    Posted 15/8/19
    I'm not Keg King (really I'm not). But this is what I have been doing.

    • I originally used the hop spider that came with the Guten. I used it 3 brews, had it overflow twice, I now no longer use it.
    • Now, I just dump the hops straight in without any filter anywhere in the Guten.
    • After the wort has cooled to 45C or so, I get out the battery powered drill and using a grainfather whirlpool "thingamejig (random google search)", I whirlpool for a minute.
    • Then I let it rest for 20min.
    • Now, I hook up silicone hose to Guten recirc outlet, and I turn the pump on, I discard the first 500ml.
    • I hold a kitchen sieve betweer the recirc outlet and the fermenter. After about 30 to 60 seconds, there are no more hop debris until I near the end of the batch.
    • As soon as I see the next hop stuff coming thru I turn off the valve.
    • There is usually about a litre to a litre and a half loss.

    No issues with pump. I dont reckon a filter is required.
     
  2. fdsaasdf

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    Posted 15/8/19
    T
    I'd be concerned about using that paddle to aerate hot wort, due to the risk of introducing hot side aeration.

    I'm sure it works well if you want to splash the wort about to oxygenate it, but my understanding is that you want to wait until you're near pitching temp before doing this if you want to avoid the greater likelihood that your beer will stale.
     
  3. Ballaratguy

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    Posted 15/8/19
    I just use a lauter helix to filter when I’m transferring using a second pump on the tap
    Comes up quite clear
     
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  4. goatchop41

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    Posted 15/8/19
    They are using it at 45oC. Even if you think that HSA is a real problem (it may not be at our scale), it's not going to be happening at 45oC - that's almost pitching temps for some kveik strains...you'll just be whirlpooling and oxygenating at that point
     
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  5. goatchop41

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    Posted 15/8/19
    There is one that exists, just not sure if KK stock it. Actually have a go at a basic google search and you'll find it (typing 'guten filter' and going to images will show it to you). The only links that I can find quickly were to the KK wholesale site though. A more thorough search on your behalf might come up with something more
     
  6. devoutharpist

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    Posted 16/8/19
    Firstly, i am also very interested in an improved filter for the Guten.

    Secondly, how many people are running their 50L on a 10a powerpoint?
     
  7. sp0rk

    Mayor of Pooptown

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    Posted 16/8/19
    Technically yes... (it's on a 20A phase)
     
    Last edited: 16/8/19
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  8. devoutharpist

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    Posted 16/8/19
    Ah yes sorry i should have framed that more theoretically.

    Theoretically i am using mine on a 10a currently, but am considering getting a 15a point moved to my brewing area when i get some other electrical work done.
     
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  9. Truman42

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    Posted 16/8/19
    Hey mate how are you getting 80%, I have only ever got around 70%. Can you share the following please.

    1.Whats your mill gap setting?
    2. Do you do a slow fly sparge?
    3.Do you use rice hulls at all?
     
  10. sp0rk

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    Posted 16/8/19
    what amp is the breaker for that phase?
     
  11. goatchop41

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    Posted 16/8/19
    1. Couldn't tell you the exact width, all that I know is that it is about two to two and half notches past halfway on the little width setting knobs on my mill - I'll have a look at my mill and try to give you some more info when I get the chance.

    2. Nope, I batch sparge. I push down on the top plate a bit to compact the grain bed a little, then literally just pour sparge water over it until I'm at about the top of the little handles on the top plate. I let that drain through (only takes a couple of minutes, at the most) then repeat until I'm done. I'm actually planning on just pouring half of my sparge water over at once, letting that drain, then doing the other half - simply to save time and effort on my behalf.

    3. Nope, I condition my malt. This has given me much better grain bed structure, allowing better flow through the bed, as well as letting me crush a bit more finely without making the bed go dense from the flour and block up.
    Before I started doing it, I was crushing at the same mill setting but was getting very limited flow through the bed during recirculation, and my efficiency was at about 70%. Conditioning has allowed me to run the recirc at pretty much full speed, is getting me clearer wort and has bumped my efficiency up to about 80%.
     
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  12. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 16/8/19
    I am going to try a different method of filtering but here is a photo of the filter available.
    filter 001.JPG
     
  13. hotmelt

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    Posted 16/8/19
    I got sick of grain going past the bottom screen so I made my own filter.

    DSC00477.jpg DSC00476.jpg DSC00460.JPG DSC00461.JPG
    It works to stop grain getting in the pump but now I've screwed the top screen onto the bottom screen with a split silicon hose around the edge.No grain getting past now only the finer stuff.
    11.jpg 13.jpg
     
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  14. devoutharpist

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    Posted 16/8/19
    pretty sure that circuit has a 16a breaker
     
  15. Truman42

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    Posted 16/8/19
    Awesome thanks for that. I don’t use the top plate and have noticed my sparge water flows through too quickly so will try pushing down on the grain bed with the top plate in future.
    Will also be trying to condition my malt and see how I go. I have to throttle my pump. Thanks for the info.
     
  16. krz

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    Posted 16/8/19
    You probably could, but I dont.
    I hook into the oven power outlet (GPO), which is rated far higher than 15A.
    Just use a 15A extension lead.
     
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  17. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 16/8/19
    Don't write off the Helix, I have tried a different configuration for cold transfers using the helix, tried it once on a stout but not sure if any break material got into the fermenter will try it again on my next brew.
     
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  18. Kenf

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    Posted 17/8/19
    I have gone back to the Helix on my Frankenfather & on the last batch (Australian Pale Ale) chilled it down using the counter flow and everything went ok.
    So I agree - don’t write off the helix!
     
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  19. 2095brewer

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    Posted 17/8/19
    I want to be a helix believer, but in my last 8/9 brews I haven’t had a successful fermenter transfer. I generally cool until pretty close to pitching temps, but even when I’ve just had it into the 30s (to try and avoid the cold break) I can’t get it to work. Shame, because it really the only major repetitive issue I’m having with the Guten.
     
  20. wide eyed and legless

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    Posted 17/8/19
    Not the fault of the Guten, just the helix and break material, as I said in your other post lets try other options before any towels get thrown.
     

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